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Old 10-24-2004, 05:29 PM
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Default remove chrome from aluminum???

I just bought a C3AE 8v lowrise manifold that was chromed for a show car. Long story short it has been sitting a long time and the chrome is in bad shape. I am familliar with most blast media but am wondering whether an electro-chemical process exists to remove chrome? (like reversing the way it was applied)

Of course price is an object... Any ideas?
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Old 10-24-2004, 09:04 PM
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Most metal platers can chemically strip the chrome. If you don't have any nearby, post again and I can give you a number or two.

Brian
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Old 10-25-2004, 06:19 AM
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SCOBRAC, I think there is a cooper based that is put on before the chrome. You may end up with a mess. May I suggest stripping the chrome and then powder coating it in "aluminum color.

This may let you have that original look and cover the prep process.

Just a thought.
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Old 10-25-2004, 10:38 AM
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Indeed all good chrome jobs have both copper and nickel bases. Any good chrome shop, and most lousy ones can simply reverse the polarity in their tank, negatively charging the piece in question. I don't believe this piece got a "good" chrome job. at least I see no evidence of a copper base. I may just get it bead blasted and repolish it. The nice thing is it was polished already before it was chromed. The guy who owned it had it on a GT-500 show car. Why he chromed it is beyond me. It would have been better simply polished. I'm going to try to strip it without ruining the polished base, we'll see.

I was looking for a more, shall we say, home spun solution. Like a car battery jumper cables and a bath tub filled with methel-ethel bad stuff... Actually I'd considered sending this piece out for stripping but the cost in shipping is double the cost to do the work.

I got it cheap enough to put some time into it, so either way it will be a nice winter project. C3AE 8V manifiold, two 1850 Holley's and linkage for $400.
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Old 11-17-2004, 06:32 PM
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Readers,
Your manifold can be stripped by us. We use a nitric acid and water solution with no power. Power will pit the casting and even could leave holes. Nitic acid is VERY VERY dangerous to work with.( can cause nitorgen narcossis without proper ventulation) You can visit our web site at advancedcustomchrome.com for some more good info on plating. We give some basic info to help in your decision on which way to go with your project We also are starting to build specialized parts for cobras and GT-40 ( vette spindles with pins drive hubs ect...) Please feel free to call me with any question you may have.

Thanks
Chris
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Old 01-21-2005, 05:50 PM
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SCOBRAC,

Your question is valid...how do I save $30 by de-chroming my manifold at home.

Here's how I did mine:

After the wife leaves for her yoga class...Fill your fiberglass bathtub with a mixture of 30% acetone...45% methelyene cholride and 25% vinegar.

Use your left foot to stir the mixture...taking care not to slip (I kept my tennis shoe on the foot outside of the tub).

Keeping your left foot in the solution...have your neighbor start the battery charger...

When you feel a tingle...shout out "GO MOMMA" and thrust the battery charger leads into the tub...taking care to put the positive (+) on the left side of the manifold, the neg (-) on the right side.

NOTE: the left side of the manifold usually melts thru the fiberglass tub first.

Do not confuse the left and right, and do not forget to shout "GO MOMMA"

Also, it helps to have the following items nearby;

Dry towel (not your wife's good one)
Cell phone (on),
...and small room fan (on)

After the chrome comes off the manifold (you might smell it first)...quickly throw the unit onto the towel and turn on the fan before the wifey returns.

Use the cell phone to call me with how it worked.

I still ended up taking mine to a chrome shop for $30.

Regards,
scratch


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Old 01-21-2005, 06:41 PM
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Scratch:

Just how well do you know Jeff Foxworthy???


Rick

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Old 01-22-2005, 06:18 AM
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Wow, now that is a scarry thought.

I know I can not let the kids read this one.

Scratch, Got pictures?
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