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Zinc Anodes for your cooling system
Flex-a-lite product number 32060 is a good addition to any cooling system. It is 1/4 pipe zinc anode for your cooling system that greatly reduces electrolysis caused by different metals ie. alumimum heads cast iron block. It lists for about $12 dollars and I really recommend it. I use a zinc anode that hangs from the radiator cap ($about $20) and can not believe the codition of it each time I remove the cap. I am really glad the galvanic action is attacking my anode and not my radiator etc.
Bill Kozlow |
You can get that same 1/4" pipe "pencil zinc" at any boating supply store for half that price. You are correct. They are mandatory when using aluminum heads, radiators, etc.
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I thought that is you kept the anti freeze maintained and/or added coolant anti corrosives, you would be fine. Almost all of the factory cars use mostly all aluminum in the heads, radiator, and often the block, and there is no anode.
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I just installed mine last month... now after reading these posts I feel more confident that I did the right thing.
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Anti-freeze won't protect against stray current. New cars have everything well grounded. There are many reports of new cars having the radiator eaten up by electrolysis in a very short time due to the ground strap not being replaced after a repair. |
$hit! I don't think my aluminum radiator is grounded. You mean the anticorrosive additives in fresh antifreez will not stop the radiator from being ruined ????? :eek:
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Just so you know...
There are myriad ways things can corrode. Galvanic (or electrolysis) is particularly difficult to control--especially with magnesium parts. David :CRY::CRY::CRY: |
I have a decent dvm. i WILL CHECK THE COOLANT TO SEE IF THERE IS ANY VOLTAGE.
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Electrolysis and galvanic action are two distinctly different processes. Salt water boats use zinc anodes, fresh water boats use magnesium anodes. Your aluminum radiator is prime meat for electolysis. Don't ever ground to it with a non-tinned ring terminal. Go to ABYC for the gruesome story.
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The current itself is flowing in the coolent so the path is not accessable. (inside your tubes and coolant passages)
Electrical bonding of the metals can help reduce the potentials developed, however there is a chemical process involved as well. Zinc anodes will help, but they're most effective if you use several scattered across the coolant path. Basically they promote electron flow to the zinc, but you have many different paths and flows occuring. I'd suggest one at the radiator and one or more at the block. This will sound nuts but kerosine is a great coolant that's been used in exteremely cold enviroments. Obviously has it's other drawbacks though. You can use no-lox for electrical connections as well as anti seize. I think about the only metal aluminum gets along with is brass / copper. |
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I have an alum rad in my Boss ,should I ground it with one of them? |
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I think mag is on the bottom of the potential list and so I don't think it is possible to protect it. I never thought of using it as a "sacrificial lamb" though...good thinking. Anyone else have any experience with this?
David :):):) |
I know from my boat owning days that these are called "noble" metals.
Since one of my larger customers is a local utility, I'll see if I can get some input from their engineers in the water dept. They have to deal with all sorts of problems like hydrogen sulfide gas in our ground water here. (rotten egg smell) Not to mention clorine and calcium. Ph levels are a big concern for one thing. |
Flex-a-lite product number 32060 is only $8.95 at Summit.
Best $9.00 insurance I ever bought. |
Nobel and Base metals
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Well I did inquire about the aluminium with the engineers, their reply was "we specifically avoid aluminum contact with water".%/
Sounds like short of coating the water jackets with glyptol, there's no stopping the process entirely. I wonder if you could substitue silicone oil or transformer oil for the coolant? We used silicone oil for dummy load cooling in the Navy. Ain't cheep at $40 a gallon but it's rated for around 400deg. I'll see if I can find more info about it, this would eliminate the corrosion and barring external contamination would be perminant. The silicone oil is about as inert as you can get so there shouldn't be any gasket/seal issues. I've been doing some digging and it appears that Amsoil has a coolant that is much more aluminum friendly than the glycol / organics. They claim near 0 material loss: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ant.aspx I'm also wondering where the zinc from the electrodes ends up??? |
When I googled rad electrolysis I also found this on AAPD's site
ELECTROLYSIS PROTECTION RADIATOR CAP C5ZZ-8100-RC-C This radiator cap includes a magnesium anode that protects aluminum and other soft material engine components from electrolysis. Electrolic metal (EME) is slowly destroying your engine components. EME attacks timing chain covers, radiators, heater cores, intake manifolds, freeze plugs, head gaskets, thermostat housings even cylibder heads causing premature failures. By allowing EME to attack the sacrificial anode, the Rad Cap" protects your engine while driving or in storage. Fits all years, con Application Notes: CHROME PLATED Price: $25.95 each http://www.aapd.net/CMPdetail.aspx?ID=2617&Gbase |
I talked to Ron Davis about this with their radiators, and ended up not using one
For it to be effective, you'd have to be checking it all the time : when serious electrolysis happens, your anode will be gone fairly quickly, then your radiator. If you check it, it's being affected, replace it and repeat, you're just on borrowed time and need to address the grounding problem. Also, most anodes (such as the flex-a-lite) use a brass fitting, not an aluminum one....brass fitting in the aluminum rad is a big no-no |
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