Zinc Anodes for your cooling system

[bkozlow]

Flex-a-lite product number 32060 is a good addition to any cooling system. It is 1/4 pipe zinc anode for your cooling system that greatly reduces electrolysis caused by different metals ie. alumimum heads cast iron block. It lists for about $12 dollars and I really recommend it. I use a zinc anode that hangs from the radiator cap ($about $20) and can not believe the codition of it each time I remove the cap. I am really glad the galvanic action is attacking my anode and not my radiator etc.

Bill Kozlow

[jwd]

You can get that same 1/4" pipe "pencil zinc" at any boating supply store for half that price. You are correct. They are mandatory when using aluminum heads, radiators, etc.

[CobraEd]

I thought that is you kept the anti freeze maintained and/or added coolant anti corrosives, you would be fine. Almost all of the factory cars use mostly all aluminum in the heads, radiator, and often the block, and there is no anode.


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[jwd]

Originally Posted by CobraEd

I thought that is you kept the anti freeze maintained and/or added coolant anti corrosives, you would be fine. Almost all of the factory cars use mostly all aluminum in the heads, radiator, and often the block, and there is no anode.


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Anti-freeze won't protect against stray current.
New cars have everything well grounded. There are many reports of new cars having the radiator eaten up by electrolysis in a very short time due to the ground strap not being replaced after a repair.

[CobraEd]

$hit! I don't think my aluminum radiator is grounded. You mean the anticorrosive additives in fresh antifreez will not stop the radiator from being ruined ?????


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[jwd]

Originally Posted by CobraEd

$hit! I don't think my aluminum radiator is grounded. You mean the anticorrosive additives in fresh antifreez will not stop the radiator from being ruined ?????


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Google "radiator electrolysis". There are links that will answer all your questions and scare the crap out of you.

[Bxx1]

I just installed mine last month... now after reading these posts I feel more confident that I did the right thing.

[Maurice Johnson]

Electrolysis and galvanic action are two distinctly different processes. Salt water boats use zinc anodes, fresh water boats use magnesium anodes. Your aluminum radiator is prime meat for electolysis. Don't ever ground to it with a non-tinned ring terminal. Go to ABYC for the gruesome story.

[Ronbo]

The current itself is flowing in the coolent so the path is not accessable. (inside your tubes and coolant passages)

Electrical bonding of the metals can help reduce the potentials developed, however there is a chemical process involved as well. Zinc anodes will help, but they're most effective if you use several scattered across the coolant path. Basically they promote electron flow to the zinc, but you have many different paths and flows occuring. I'd suggest one at the radiator and one or more at the block.

This will sound nuts but kerosine is a great coolant that's been used in exteremely cold enviroments. Obviously has it's other drawbacks though.

You can use no-lox for electrical connections as well as anti seize. I think about the only metal aluminum gets along with is brass / copper.

[69boss429]

Originally Posted by Maurice Johnson

Electrolysis and galvanic action are two distinctly different processes. Salt water boats use zinc anodes, fresh water boats use magnesium anodes. Your aluminum radiator is prime meat for electolysis. Don't ever ground to it with a non-tinned ring terminal. Go to ABYC for the gruesome story.

? What is a tinned ring terminal?
I have an alum rad in my Boss ,should I ground it with one of them?

[427 S/O]

Holy smoke!, after reading this thread, I had no idea that moon mission engineering was part of my build.