Oil Filter study

Rick Parker · #1 (**permalink**) 03-15-2009, 07:19 PM

Since Spring is near many of us will be changing Oil & Filter before we venture out on the roads. This study has been highlighted here before but has been revised from what I can see, and may be worth another in depth look. There is a lot of good information here.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html

On another note, last summer I had occasion to speak with the owner of Pro Power Filters, they make a cleanable filter with stainless mesh. He stated that conventional filters are in a constant state of bypass because the oil actually does not pass through the paper within the filter, but passes along the pleats and the various contaminants cling to the fibers within the pleats of the filter paper. Not sure if this is right as I have always assumed the oil passed through the paper and returned via the center hole. His statement got me thinking???

elric · #2 (**permalink**) 03-15-2009, 08:02 PM

Depends on what the pressure differential is set at via the spring in the filter. I'd rather have not as filtered oil than no oil.

rokndad · #3 (**permalink**) 03-15-2009, 09:18 PM

Thanks for the link Rick. I see what you meant about the Wix filters. Good call.

Tom

thudmaster · #4 (**permalink**) 03-15-2009, 11:59 PM

Intresting reading Rick. Thank you for the info........

Ant · #5 (**permalink**) 03-16-2009, 01:59 AM

Rick,

I have a System 1 filter which I was going to use and my engine builder said he didnt like the re-usable stainless steel mesh pleated filters and I should stick to either a Wix or K&N.

I found a Pro power on Ebay, also found these which I guess are virtually the same, http://www.gopurepower.com/store/ite...em&itemKey=664

From what I can gather most professional race teams and leading engine builders in NZ arent flocking to use the re-usable mesh type filters. The makers of these filters going by their websites state they have many attributes over paper or synthetic other oil filters, bit like Amsoil saying their product is always better than all other oils. They claim that other filters bypass a lot and therefore dont filter efficiently, I am not sure on that as I have had cars that have done 500,000k and still going strong, from what I have seen all race type engines make "Metal" that is why it is better to have correct interval oil and filter changes. Also I think with the stainless mesh like the Obergs I have used you have to be fussy with cleaning, where as with either a K&N HP5001 or Wix 51222R high performance race type filters that I now use, the metal contaminants go in the trash with the filter.

Bob In Ct · #6 (**permalink**) 03-16-2009, 06:28 AM

I'm currently using a 27 micron Moroso racing filter (Mobil1 filter is about 9 microns). I figure the oil is far more apt to go through the filter than to bypass it, especially when it's cold. Since I started using it I've noticed a slight increase in pressure.

Bob

Dominik · #7 (**permalink**) 03-31-2009, 09:00 AM

Hi Rick!

We ran a filter on our racing car, without bypass in filter nor in the adapter plate.
Not knowing the flow capacity of that setup we ran out of oil pressure.

One of the more experienced engineers confirmed that a: our setup is correct, b: the filter in question had not enough filtering area when new, let alone used. I think it was a MANN.

I cut it open and found debris in the "fold" of the paper. Of course. All oil was forced that way.

Now, which filter has enough capacity if you run all oil through it?
And what is the max pressure? When will it burst?

Dom

Morris · #8 (**permalink**) 03-31-2009, 09:59 AM

Look at Canton Filters...CM type... not the spin on .... the 6" Manual filter that's bolted on top and bottom ...used on the pressure side........ no by-pass..... also use a 6" course filter on the return to the Dry sump tank....

69boss429 · #9 (**permalink**) 03-31-2009, 11:51 AM

When looking for the best filter for my Boss 429 I discovered that the WIX racing filter had a very high flow rate compared to all others,I believe it was almost double.
I have been using them ever since.

Ant · #10 (**permalink**) 03-31-2009, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Morris

Look at Canton Filters...CM type... not the spin on .... the 6" Manual filter that's bolted on top and bottom ...used on the pressure side........ no by-pass..... also use a 6" course filter on the return to the Dry sump tank....

Morris are you referring to the cannister style inline or the billet housing same as the thermostat housing?
Cantons claim that their filters do down to 8 microns and flow good for race applications obviously has been tested.
Wix race filters are 60 micron filtering which is fine for a race engine that sees limited miles before tear down, maybe they use a different media that doesnt flow as well as Canton when filtering finer particles.

I have since purchased a Peterson HP6 remote mount and a K&N HP-5001 filter and what a "BIG" filter, I cant fit it in any of the places I wanted to, so thats gone back to the shop. Now considering a Peterson HP4 with shorter Moroso 27 micron race filter of 4-9/32" height.

My system is dry sump and I have screen filters in the oil pan, I dont see the point in a filter on the scavenge return when it already has screen filters in the pan, but I might make a large screen filter that fits down on the first tank baffle to stop any debris going through tank and on to my oil pump, and in case of foreign object dropped through filler cap.

This subject has been well discussed on CC and I am still confused.....!!!

Morris · #11 (**permalink**) 04-02-2009, 12:02 PM

Ant

We use this filter on the pressure side.

http://www.cmfilters.com/remote_filt...il_filters.htm

It is 8 microns and the oil has to go thru it ...no by pass .... sealed on top and bottom..... and I can run the oil pressure as high as we want to ..... the pump is a Aviaid pump .....but we had a Cast iron pressure section made for it and the pressure stays stable at hige temps.

And we use the screen filters mounted in the oil Pan to the pump and then we use another one like this on the scavenge side out of the pump and to the oil tank.... both are needed, We take temps of oil in the Dry sump tank and we take temps after the cooler going back into the motor....

http://www.cmfilters.com/remote_filt...en_filters.htm

You can't protect your engine enough..... and our oil temps will go as high as 300*degrees and that is using the largest NASCAR Cooler made by Fluidyne.... Huge Cooler....

Morris

Mark IV · #12 (**permalink**) 04-02-2009, 12:37 PM

Ford Motorcvraft FL1HP

Heavy case, more retaining threads, lotsa flow.

Zoom This · #13 (**permalink**) 04-02-2009, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69boss429

When looking for the best filter for my Boss 429 I discovered that the WIX racing filter had a very high flow rate compared to all others,I believe it was almost double.
I have been using them ever since.

Boss...the Wix racing filter is a very good racing filter but doesn't provide a lot of filtering for a street application. The extra flow is attributed to less filter media and was not recommended by the Wix rep at SEMA for street use. Non-racing Wix filter is recommended for street use.

Bill

Ronbo · #14 (**permalink**) 04-02-2009, 07:26 PM

Get a nipple adapter and run the two quart chevy filter...

BAT has the dual thread adapters (go to the "filter" section). http://www.batinc.net/mocal.htm (Ford 3/4-16 to Chevy 13/16)

Here's the huge filter: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...818380+400105+

The guy's nuts that said the oil doesn't go through the filter element.

Got the Bug · #15 (**permalink**) 04-02-2009, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark IV

Ford Motorcvraft FL1HP

Heavy case, more retaining threads, lotsa flow.

Where can you get the best price on the FL1-HP? You can usually find it on Amazon for about $16 (includes shipping) which beats the Ford dealer's price.

You can also use the WIX 51622.

http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlook...asp?Part=51622

69boss429 · #16 (**permalink**) 04-03-2009, 04:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zoom This

Boss...the Wix racing filter is a very good racing filter but doesn't provide a lot of filtering for a street application. The extra flow is attributed to less filter media and was not recommended by the Wix rep at SEMA for street use. Non-racing Wix filter is recommended for street use.

Bill

Thanks for that info !
I run 2 to 3000 miles pre year with oil changes at 1500,overkill maybe.I'll ask the WIX tech what he thinks about that.
I was having issues with other filters seeping at the gasket where the filter meets my oil cooler adapter(stock Boss item),and running a Melling HV pump.
Thought other filters might be causing restriction and excess pressure at that point.Anyway,to make a long story longer it turned out to be a porous castingwhich I then painted with glyptal.Problem seems to have gone away.
Dave

Ant · #17 (**permalink**) 04-03-2009, 02:27 PM

I have a canton thermostat that looks like it has the same shape. I see your point of "no by pass"
looking at it from my point of view I would have to import the replacement elements, which isnt a problem! I see on their website they have an inline filter that can be used as a primary filter as well, it uses the same part # element as the billet housing filter!!!
Did you notice any flow or pressure loss with the 8 micron?
I was going to use a Moroso filter of 27 microns but it can still bypass.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Morris

Ant

We use this filter on the pressure side.

http://www.cmfilters.com/remote_filt...il_filters.htm

It is 8 microns and the oil has to go thru it ...no by pass .... sealed on top and bottom..... and I can run the oil pressure as high as we want to ..... the pump is a Aviaid pump .....but we had a Cast iron pressure section made for it and the pressure stays stable at hige temps.

And we use the screen filters mounted in the oil Pan to the pump and then we use another one like this on the scavenge side out of the pump and to the oil tank.... both are needed, We take temps of oil in the Dry sump tank and we take temps after the cooler going back into the motor....

http://www.cmfilters.com/remote_filt...en_filters.htm

You can't protect your engine enough..... and our oil temps will go as high as 300*degrees and that is using the largest NASCAR Cooler made by Fluidyne.... Huge Cooler....

Morris

Morris · #18 (**permalink**) 04-04-2009, 04:16 PM

Ant

We did not see any reduction in oil pressure ..... and I removed the Oil Thermostat because it was not doing anything for us..... One lap and the motor is up to temp....

So we use the filter 8 micron then the oil cooler and then into the motor.... and after experimenting all last summer .... we concluded that we needed to remove the thermo....

BTW the Filter is a good place to mount a Temp probe....and we do that on the scavenge side of the system... in the oil filter before the Dry Sump tank.

Morris

Ant · #19 (**permalink**) 04-05-2009, 12:06 AM

Morris,

I am running my Canton t/stat on the scavenge for one reason only to divert the cold oil to tank, to avoid blowing the oil cooler.

My pressure side is straight from pump to filter to gallery, will be having a oil pressure pickup rear of block and low pressure switch on remote oil filter housing, in case of pump belt failure etc.

I do like the idea of Cantons inline filter same element as you are using will look at it.

Ant · #20 (**permalink**) 04-05-2009, 03:24 PM

Morris,

Had a look at Cantons inline filter with the 4-5/8" 45gph element and 8 micron filtering, the filter media is obviously good stuff and design to allow those two desirable attributes! Will look at the bolt together version like yours as I think they will be more serviceable, and allow for more mounting options!