Use of Anti-seize on knock offs

[steve meltzer]

I have always used anti-seize on the threads of the hubs on my cars with knock-off spinners, and never had a problem. However, recently I was trying to remove the "Halibrand" style wheels from my Kirkham Cobra. I last had them off about 4 years and 1000 miles ago. (Car doesn't get driven nearly as much as I'd like and never in inclement weather.) I personally tightened the wheels and I'm the original "90 pound weakling on the beach", so they weren't initially overly tight. Getting those wheels off took me locking up the brakes, blocking the tires with 2X6 boards and my very strong friend with a 7 foot cheater bar on 3/4" breaker bar to loosen the wing nuts. Whew! I'm amazed nothing was broken or damaged. I've never seen anything like this before, but a friend who's a professional mechanic said this was due to the anti-seize on the threads. Interestingly, the Permatex website doesn't list this particular application for the use of anti-sieze. Do you all use anti-seize or not on your wing nuts/spinners? thanx steve

[ERA Chas]

Nonsense about a/s being the cause. More than likely, the tapered seat of the wheel galled the spinner. Use a/s on the seat as well as the threads.

[joyridin']

So he is really saying your anti-seize CAUSED the spinner to seize?

Kind of defeats the whole purpose of anti-seize doesn't it?

Make sure you are using the gray stuff and not the nickel or copper. The gray mixed version will prevent galling. The other two are for high heat related applications. In a bind, any type is better than none.

[Igofastr]

I've have had cars with spinners for going on ten years (including a Kirkham), and wouldn't consider NOT using antiseize. Every once-in-a-while, I'll get one that is particularly difficult to get off...but never as bad as you describe. I would definitely make sure that you coat every surface that will contact the hub, not just the splined area.

I don't know about anybody else, but occasionally I'll "wet down" the AS a little with WD40 if it looks like its drying out a bit (I reapply if needed). And yes, I use the grey stuff.

[steve meltzer]

Well, he's a great mechanic, but I too, disagree with him on this one. I was using the copper one, but I'll switch to the gray stuff. thanx again. s

[PeteF]

Your mechanic may have meant that you had too much anti-seize on the threads. Too much can get gummy over time and actually restrict removal. I have seen this happen in aerospace applications. A thin coating is all you need to be optimum.

[1795]

I made the mistake of using the gray as on the threads of my sparkplugs because they were going into aluminum heads and my mechanic told me to never do that again. He said that eventually the liquid portion of the gray as leaks out and that what is left behind gums up the threads in the head and is very difficult to remove. I plan on using a thin coat of the gray as on all surfaces the first time that I remove my wheels.

[steve meltzer]

I think the threads must have galled, tho' I don't know why. Hard to imagine one could use too much of this on spindle threads, especially in a non-track application. steve

[DanEC]

I've been using the gray anti-sieze on my Corvette's knock offs for almost 20 years without any problem. A thin coating is probably best, but it needs to be applied to the pins, the threaded shank and the cone shaped contact portion of the spinner and wheel. Some Corvette knock off adaptors with a paint finish rather than a plated finish (like mine). Even with the anti-sieze coating the paint on the threads can begin to abrade and ball up and foul the threads. That could be one posssible problem.

[Barnsnake]

Did you try to remove them with a lead hammer? A rap with a hammer imparts a surprising amount of torque and the shock enhances the effect.

[Rick Parker]

Your issue was the tapered face became somewhat caroaded (sp?) from moisture, humidity etc and essentially welded itself to the wheel. Clean the surfaces and use Antisieze liberally, rags are ment to clean up the extra.

[steve meltzer]

I didn't try a hammer, as my "Mutha Thumper", which I would have gladly applied, was at my friend's house on the floor of my '66 BB 'Vette, also with KO's. I used a big "socket" cut from a truck axle nut tool. (Details if you're interested.) However, it's tough to give those wing nuts a good "whack", especially the rear ones, as the "strike" angle is awkward, as we all know.

I live in a very humid environment, so maybe Rick is correct...corrosion and moisture may have contributed to my misery. thanx for all of your thoughts. s

[Bill Bess]

Okay, here is what I do and so far it's worked perfectly. When installing the wheels make sure everything is clean, apply a thin coat of gray anti seize grease to the beveled surfaces and a little on the threads.. install wheel and seat it with the wing nuts. Give the wing nuts a few good smacks to make sure it's tight. Install safety wire, basically the SS wire just tells you at a glance the wheel is still tight when doing a walk around.
Removing the wheel, jack up the wheel so there is just enough pressure on it to keep it from spinning when you hit the wing nut with your lead hammer.
Apply a great amount of W-D-40 to the threads and let it soak. Now start beating the crap out of the wing nut, rotating the wheel so you can smack each wing on the knock-off wing nut.
Easy-Peezy Good Luck

[Sawdust]

This is what I use. Never have any problems with the spinners.
Cobra Valley's Chemicals - Spinner Eaze Anti-Seize

[WardL]

I think no matter how much A/S you use, if the wheel sits on there long enough, you will have a stuck spinner sooner or later. For whatever reason, I end up taking my wheels off several times a year. The first time was a bugger because they had been on there several years. Since then, no problems....knock, knock, knock on wood..... or spinner.

[steve meltzer]

that thought crossed my mind as well. I think that the beveled area on the interface is the culprit, over time, tho' the anti-seize probably helps.

[steve meltzer]

I have a theory to explain the incredible difficulty we encountered in removing the Cobra wheels. But, first, a bit of history. The car sat in my mom's garage for more than one year, about 2 years ago. This was the first time the car has been on the lift since then, and while working on the car (new starter, lube, etc) I noted, tho' not at the front of my small brain, much corrosion on certain fittings. I've included a picture of some of the ss fuel lines as they enter the mechanical fuel pump and also a shot of the breaker plate of the distributor. Look at that corrosion and, what appears to be, rust. Gotta wonder if that process, whatever in her garage started it, was at work on those wheel surfaces. Thank you all for your interest. S

[Rick Parker]

A lot of moisture coming up though the concrete and or very humid area??

[steve meltzer]

Well, i'm in Houston, and tho' it's never happened before, it could be that sitting there that long, + the moisture could have done it. not sure, but I think it's my mother's fault. s

[DanEC]

Does she keep any swimming pool chemicals or brick cleaning acid in the garage.? Both are very corrosive if they get vented out somehow.