Club Cobra GasN Exhaust  

Go Back   Club Cobra > Club Cobra Tech Areas > Tires and Wheels

Welcome to Club Cobra!  The World's largest non biased Shelby Cobra related site!

  •  » Representation from nearly all Cobra/Daytona/GT40 manufacturers
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and nearly 1 million posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

MMG Superformance
Nevada Classics
Keith Craft Racing
Main Menu
Module Jump:
Nevada Classics
Nevada Classics
MMG Superformance
Advertise at CC
Banner Ad Rates
MMG Superformance
Keith Craft Racing
September 2020
    1 2 3 4 5
6 7 8 9 10 11 12
13 14 15 16 17 18 19
20 21 22 23 24 25 26
27 28 29 30      

Kirkham Motorsports

Like Tree6Likes

LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
  #21 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2020, 04:43 AM
xb-60's Avatar
CC Member/Contributor
Visit my Photo Gallery
Gold Star Contributor
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Adelaide, SA
Cobra Make, Engine: 289FIA 'English' spec.
Posts: 7,905
Not Ranked     

With respect, why attempt to repair Mg wheels? Most of us have replicas, not original Cobras, and aluminium alloy wheels can be made to look like authentic vintage Mg wheels, so why not err on the side of safety and stick with aluminium alloy wheels?

nota bene...a 275/60 x 15 tyre weighs around 30lb / 14kg, and a 15" x 9.5" aluminium alloy wheel is only around 15lb / 7kg

That said, I understand the desire to go as "authentic" as possible in certain areas.....but if safety is a concern....

Cheers, and stay safe!
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Sponsored Links
  #22 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2020, 09:18 AM
Club Cobra Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: arroyo grande, ca, ca
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 427
Posts: 1,603
Not Ranked     

Disclaimer: I am not an expert. You need to speak to the “right” Cobra experts of the period. People like Lynn Park. Fran Kress, JL Henderson and others whose names will be referred to you by these people and people on this forum.

Now, I did research the period Halibrand wheels for the Goodyear tire history I wrote for SAAC a couple of years ago and learned a lot about the original Halibrand magnesium wheels.

Before I go into that, we need to know more about the wheels you have.

You say you have “a set of old Halibrand magnesium wheels”.

You have to be more specific than that. Old as in 1965 or 1966? Which style Halibrand? You’re sure they’re Halibrand.

In any case, “old” is not good when talking magnesium wheels. Age embrittlement, stress cracks (visible and invisible), and corrosion are your enemies.

Halibrand, as good a manufacturer as they were, did not have the modern metallurgy technology in the 1960’s we have today.

Age embrittlement can take place with a wheel just sitting on a shelf for years. Add heat, UV, ozone, corrosion and stress and you have a cocktail for disaster.

OK, lots of guys are running period magnesium Halibrands in vintage racing, but as you have read in the previous posts they are carefully and meticulously maintained.

Running old, unknown magnesium wheels (one which already has a crack) on the street is probably not a good idea, earning on the side of caution and safety.

The Dow coatings, mentioned in previous posts, applied to the magnesium wheels were intended as corrosion protection (not air sealing) and had a limited life. Simply reapplying a “new” coating of the Dow coating (or other coating) without being assured of the internal condition of the casting (corrosion and stress cracks) will only mask an impending problem.

Now regarding mounting, bead sealing and inner tubes.

Keep in mind that those 1960’s ish Halibrand magnesium wheels were intended for racing due to their light weight. Racing tires were replaced frequently and any sign of wheel damage relegated the wheel to the scrapheap. Lots of broken/cracked Halibrand magnesium wheels hanging in garages as garage art (mine included).

And the period Goodyear racing tires were intended to have tubes to insure sealing and to keep the light weight tires/beads on the rims. (it is a challenge to find modern tubes with valve stems that line up well with the old Halibrands but the previous posts here about the tubes may help).

And, regarding the bead sealing. Not all bead sealing lubricants/sealers are created equal and some can quickly promote corrosion on magnesium and aluminum wheels. (ask me how I know LOL)

The period expert on tire/tubes would be JL Henderson, (Shelby’s Goodyear Racing Tire manager for 46 years now retired). He would be a wealth of information.

Most tire/wheel stores will be of no help. Contacting a high end (Ferrari or restoration shop etc) dealer to get a tire mounting recommendation (relative to bead sealing compounds that do not cause corrosion) might help or of course a Goodyear Racing distributor like Roger Kraus will be a big help regarding tubes.

And I wouldn’t even broach the subject of welding repairs of cracks etc without a very thorough crack and corrosion inspection and finding a very competent (aerospace or racing) weld shop with experience in magnesium repair. No fireworks wanted here. Epoxy repairs will just hide/promote corrosion

So, OK, lots of guys back in the old days ran magnesium wheels on the street. But keep in mind performance upgrades of the day were passing fancies and short lived. They weren’t running a magnesium wheel for 60 years, or 60 months and probably not even 60 weeks.

So proceed with a great deal of caution.

Unless your car is intended for high end concors shows or museums, or carefully maintained vintage race cars, running ”old” magnesium wheels on a street car may not be prudent.

Lots of very nice modern (aluminum and some as mentioned magnesium) reproductions out there.

That’s my 10 cents worth.

1985 CCX and S1965C like this.
Reply With Quote
  #23 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2020, 04:31 PM
xb-60's Avatar
CC Member/Contributor
Visit my Photo Gallery
Gold Star Contributor
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Adelaide, SA
Cobra Make, Engine: 289FIA 'English' spec.
Posts: 7,905
Not Ranked     

I'm certainly no expert either, however Greg has way more information and knowledge on the subject of old mag. wheels than I do. Safety should always come first, particularly when the subject is Cobras.

My 1 cent worth

Reply With Quote
  #24 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2020, 12:05 PM
1985 CCX's Avatar
CSX2375R Comp289
Visit my Photo Gallery

Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Manchester, NH
Cobra Make, Engine: AK1085 and CSX2375R: Competition tribute in vintage Hertz Gold
Posts: 16,192
Not Ranked     

Greg is right safety 1st.
I never repaired any wheels, crack check yes. My feeling is cracked wheels should be repaired by a qualified individual, which will be at great cost.
Best rule if cracked = wall art!

Last, they are a wheel that requires PM, Lynn and Fran gave me the tools on that which I have shared. Oil Oil Oil and look at them to be sure they are good.
If cracked you will lose air. If not they may seep but will hold over time.
If you dont want the headache buy alloy!

Oiled and not pretty, Mags on AC#1085
Attached Images

Last edited by 1985 CCX; 09-16-2020 at 12:09 PM..
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:56 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting For full policy documentation refer to the following link: CC Policy
Links monetized by VigLink