Aluminum or steel flywheel

[RICK LAKE]

DanEC Dan the only thing I have found is that the Aluminum flywheel motor rev's up a little quicker than Steel It's about Mass weight and all that science stuff. Here's the thing I found out, I ran a 452 motor for 8 years before going to the 482 stroker kit. The motor was all torque with a 501-533" camshaft. Off idle I could blow the tires away without much rpm. I also had a 6,000 chip in the MSD box. By switching to a lighter flywheel from 40# to 22# the car didn't blow up the tires as easy. Less stored energy in the lighter flywheel. I am still running the same flywheel and clutch assembly for the 482 motor and having the same problem again with traction off idle. Way too much torque. I can fix this by advancing camshaft timing to remove some bottom end torque.
Dan the other question is what gears ratio in the rearend are you looking at and what trans are you looking to run?? How big is the camshaft, this is real important to street manners of the car? This will also effect the way the car runs and drivability. The other thing is with all my motors I have gotten the WHOLE rotating assembly balanced. I know 99% of the flywheels come with a 0 balance. I like the whole thing done with flywheel,dampener,pulleys, crank trigger ring, spacer, and complete rotating assembly at 1 time. Some people don't believe in this being not needed, I think it helps in the long run, IMO.
Bottom line the old story is light car light clutch assembly and flywheel, heavy car heavy parts. I use ONLY SFI parts in my cobra if possible, this includes the bellhousing, Lakewood. The flywheel, the pressure plate and clutch assembly itself. I am not saying that these parts don't break any quicker than OEM stuff, just believe they are built a little better. Rick L.