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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2010, 10:02 AM
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I to recall that 460 bell housing flywheel/bell housing explosion.

To use it as ANY example of failure of ANY kind it should be listed under:
DARWIN AWARDS. I mean gimme a break, what those guys did was ridiculous, it is absurd to draw any conclusions about a failure from this example, other than, people can sure do dumb things. SFI rating or not, when your up for a Darwin Award, no one can help you.

A little common sense please, which aint so common...
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2010, 10:46 AM
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Ex,

The owners fault, absolutely and he admits it freely. Some lessons are expensive.
But it is still a very valid failure to discuss as it happened a roughly half of the advertised capability.


Jason
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2010, 11:14 AM
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Your kidding me? This is valid? No way!

Common sense:
You don't use the wrong flywheel, bolt it up the wrong way, and then declare a "failure" at only half the advertised capability. If you were a scientist doing research, say, an SFI rating on something, your research data would be laughed at. No other researcher would take you seriously. This particular example is blatantly ridiculous on any level.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2010, 11:59 AM
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Jason,

I don't know what to say to you...and this thread isn't for arguing about Quicktime bellhousings. Let's call it a day, ok? If you want to start a separate thread on the subject, then by all means....

Otherwise, I'm not begging you to buy a Quicktime bellhousing from me...so this is where I get off unless someone has some legitimate questions about the things mentioned at the beginning of this thread.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2010, 08:33 PM
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Enjoyed the chat this afternoon, Brent. I appreciate your time and your knowledgeable opinion. I'll mull over the originality vs. power issues associated with the 289 and 351 stroker options and let you know.

I really like the idea of having an ME as an engine builder!

Thanks again...
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2010, 09:40 PM
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Brent,

Thank you for the thread, I learned quite a bit by reading it. I also believe this thread will help others for a long time to come. Please continue when ready.................
steve
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2010, 06:08 PM
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Does anyone have a topic that needs to be added here?
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2010, 07:57 PM
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Default Break in procedure

I have a question:
What is the recommended break in procedure for a 351w?
Thanks
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2010, 04:52 AM
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Has the cam already been broken in?
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2010, 07:04 AM
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Hello Brent,
I don't know much therefore your thread was very informative. Thank you, Cliff
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2010, 10:11 AM
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Great information Brent! I wish this info had been posted 7 or 8 years ago!

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2010, 07:32 AM
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Default Running valves...

I get asked a lot about the best method of setting valve lash/preload.

The jist of it is you want to set the lash when you're on the heel of the cam lobe. On a cam with a lot of duration/overlap, you stand more of a chance of catching a valve still slightly open if you use the other methods (such as setting the valves with the piston at TDC of the compression stroke and then going every 90°, following the firing order).

With the EVO/IVC method, you're basically insuring that the lifter is on the lobe heel.

For instance, if you're setting the intake valve lash, bump it over until the exhaust valve is starting to open. You know that the intake valve is going to be totally shut because you're on the exhaust stroke and the exhaust valve is starting to open. You would have to go through the motion of fully opening the exhaust valve and starting to shut the exhaust valve before the intake valve would start to open again.

Conversely, on the exhaust valve lash, you bump it over until the intake valve on that cylinder is starting to close. You know that the exhaust valve is going to be fully shut because the intake valve is closing and you're getting ready to light a fire in the thing.

When I have an engine on the stand, getting ready to go on the pump or in the car, I run the valves this way, on both a solid and hydraulic cam. For cold aluminum headed iron block engines, I aim about .006" low on the lash and then let her have it.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2010, 07:43 AM
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I always do the final adjustment with the engine running. 1/4 turn after the ticking stops !


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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2010, 07:55 AM
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Whatcha do with them solid cams?
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2010, 05:14 PM
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Brent,

Back to the Quicktime discussion, in a way. I'm getting 462 cu. in. FE built and the engine builder has recommended Quicktime. I'm going to use a Richmond Gear Street 5 speed and am thinking McLeod clutch, etc. Anything I should be very careful about?

Thanks,

Hal
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2010, 05:19 PM
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Should be pretty straightforward. Keep in mind there are several flavors of Richmond boxes so make sure you match the bellhousing to the input shaft length.

Unless you're hitting over 600-650hp and need a twin disc, I'd go with a less expensive RAM clutch that will accomplish the same thing. I'd aim for a billet steel flywheel with an 11" Long clutch.

Are you buying everything through your builder? If not, I can offer a Club Cobra discount and I'll pick all your parts for you so you don't have to sweat it.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2010, 07:06 AM
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Great thread. I am hoping you can help or offer some advice on my current situation. I am running a 427 FE stroker in a SPF Cobra with 600rwhp and 650rwtq. The TKO600 has never shifted well and is now stuck in gear. The trans is pulled from the car and I am evaluating upgrade options. The car is mainly used for street with an occasional trip to the strip for fun.

Any ideas or recommendations would be much appreciated.

Thank you.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2010, 10:41 AM
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lots of good info
thanks Brent

brobehr
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2010, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigE View Post
Great thread. I am hoping you can help or offer some advice on my current situation. I am running a 427 FE stroker in a SPF Cobra with 600rwhp and 650rwtq. The TKO600 has never shifted well and is now stuck in gear. The trans is pulled from the car and I am evaluating upgrade options. The car is mainly used for street with an occasional trip to the strip for fun.

Any ideas or recommendations would be much appreciated.

Thank you.

Big E,

That's a lot of power for a TKO 600, especially on a strip with good tires. Is your engine supercharged/turbocharged?

Is it still stuck in gear after you've removed it from the car?
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2010, 04:15 PM
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Brent,

Thank you for the quick response. No turbo or SC, just 504 ci of FE bult to be a beast.

I had a mechanic remove the tranny and I have not spoken to him in the last few days, so I'm not sure if it's still stuck in gear.

I agree that it's too much power for the TKO. Any thoughts or suggestions on beefing it up to handle that much power?
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