Toploader oil debate???

[zrayr]

I've got 45,000 miles on a toploader that was rebuilt by David Kee about 9 years ago. I have always used Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil in the toploader. Although others have reported issues when shifting rapidly when using a synthetic oil, I have had zero problems in this area. I originally tried the synthetic oil as an experiment, but mainly for the wear-resistance it offers. I've used both the 75w-90 and the 75w-140 with equal positive results. And no leaks either.

I recently installed the original T-10 transmission back into the car. Curious as to how the toploader had fared I removed the top plate and inspected the gears.

They all looked new. I urge you to try Mobil 1. If you don't like it for whatever reason, just drain and refill with the conventional oil of your choice. No harm done.

I'm also using the Mobil 1 gear oil in the traction loc 9" rear end. No need for a friction modifier additive as the Mobil 1 gear oil comes with it.

Gear Lubricants

Z.

[davids2toys]

This stuff can drive you nuts!
I know this may seem stupid, but, what exactly is a traction loc? I have the Salisbury Jag posi rear.
Dave

[zrayr]

Originally Posted by davids2toys

This stuff can drive you nuts!
I know this may seem stupid, but, what exactly is a traction loc? I have the Salisbury Jag posi rear.
Dave

traction loc is another name for posi traction.

Z.

[davids2toys]

Is it a jag?

[RICK LAKE]

davids2toys Dave there are about 10-15 different posi carriers for sale that all do about the same thing. This is to apply power to both rear tires evenly. There are gear types, clutch types, cones types, heli gear, and air types. Your rearend is a clutch type unless ERA put in an aftermarket. For the best preformance out of the posi, change the fluid every other year. Remove the cover and clean the best you can. refill the rearend and drive. THIS is important, go to a parking lot and do tight circles in both directions. This gets the fluid between the clutch packs and the new friction modifier on the discs. I do about 5 and 5 2 times. best test after this is to wet a patch on the road and do a small burn out to see if both tires spin. The water makes it easier on the diff and car to check. The other way is to get a person to hold the other wheel and measure with a torque wrench how much resistance there is before the diff carrier slips. Would need to find the spec on this from my manual. Clutch packs due wear out over time or the springs inside the rearend get soft. I spent the money and went with a Locker rearend that is mechanical. No clutches. It is harder on the street and sometimes drags a wheel around a turn. Other thing is a rearend cover to help strengthen the carrier caps and stop cap walking. This is more for abuse or racing than street cruising. I over build any part I can because of track racing and autocross. As for the tranny fluid, new trannies now run automatic trans fluid in them. It's all how the trans is setup with clearances and wear and tear. I also think it's about how good the trans gets fluid to all locations, lubes and cools gears and bearings inside the case. I couple of guys run coolers and pumps for helping cool the trans. I have a kit for this buit have tryed just a small 4" blower fans to move the dead hot air from the tunnel of the car. It seams to help the rear inboard brakes as well to push out that hot air also. Rick L.

[davids2toys]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

davids2toys Dave there are about 10-15 different posi carriers for sale that all do about the same thing. This is to apply power to both rear tires evenly. There are gear types, clutch types, cones types, heli gear, and air types. Your rearend is a clutch type unless ERA put in an aftermarket. For the best preformance out of the posi, change the fluid every other year. Remove the cover and clean the best you can. refill the rearend and drive. THIS is important, go to a parking lot and do tight circles in both directions. This gets the fluid between the clutch packs and the new friction modifier on the discs. I do about 5 and 5 2 times. best test after this is to wet a patch on the road and do a small burn out to see if both tires spin. The water makes it easier on the diff and car to check. The other way is to get a person to hold the other wheel and measure with a torque wrench how much resistance there is before the diff carrier slips. Would need to find the spec on this from my manual. Clutch packs due wear out over time or the springs inside the rearend get soft. I spent the money and went with a Locker rearend that is mechanical. No clutches. It is harder on the street and sometimes drags a wheel around a turn. Other thing is a rearend cover to help strengthen the carrier caps and stop cap walking. This is more for abuse or racing than street cruising. I over build any part I can because of track racing and autocross. As for the tranny fluid, new trannies now run automatic trans fluid in them. It's all how the trans is setup with clearances and wear and tear. I also think it's about how good the trans gets fluid to all locations, lubes and cools gears and bearings inside the case. I couple of guys run coolers and pumps for helping cool the trans. I have a kit for this buit have tryed just a small 4" blower fans to move the dead hot air from the tunnel of the car. It seams to help the rear inboard brakes as well to push out that hot air also. Rick L.

Good info Rick, thanks.
Did some checking on the MOROSO climbing gear lube today, the MOROSO engineer said it is 80-90 wieght, GL-5, no posi fluid added. he would definately recommend it for the rear end plus adding frition modifier, but a big NO for the toploader because of the GL-5 rating...needs to be GL-4.
With the rear, how much friction modifier should be added? I have an old 8oz unopened bottle of Amalie on the shelf, but i read somewhere this was not a good choice to use, but I forgot the reason why???

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by davids2toys

With the rear, how much friction modifier should be added? I have an old 8oz unopened bottle of Amalie on the shelf, but i read somewhere this was not a good choice to use, but I forgot the reason why???

There's nothing wrong with Amalie -- it's good stuff. Here are the specifications for the Jag/Salisbury differentials that ERA uses (in both the Jag inboard and ERA outboard braked flavors):

The filler and drain plugs are ½” square. Fill to about ½” below the bottom of the hole with Moroso climbing gear lube, SAE 90, part number 34800, mixed with 4 to 8 oz. of Amalie limited slip additive (part # 505-6775). If the above are not available, you may use 80W-90 GL5 lubricant with an equivalent limited slip additive. If the limited slip seems to be sticking (ratcheting around sharp corners), drain add refill, replacing the Amalie additive with 2 tubes of GM additive 1052358.

[zrayr]

Originally Posted by davids2toys

".............With the rear, how much friction modifier should be added? I have an old 8oz unopened bottle of Amalie on the shelf, but i read somewhere this was not a good choice to use, but I forgot the reason why???

why not just visit your Ford dealer and buy a bottle of the motorcraft friction modifier additive. You add the whole container, it's about 8 oz.

Z.