Leaking Toploader gasket - Page 2

cdnus · #1 (**permalink**) 06-21-2016, 06:13 AM

David
I used the same type as David Kee sells. Would have to look for exact location did it so long ago. I believe it was top side, Half way between speedo hole and rear tailshaft bushing.
Craig

davids2toys · #2 (**permalink**) 06-21-2016, 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdnus

David
I used the same type as David Kee sells. Would have to look for exact location did it so long ago. I believe it was top side, Half way between speedo hole and rear tailshaft bushing.
Craig

Just found it on the site. They have a 15.00 minimum order, so I added a rear seal and output shaft plug to get to the minimum. Their cheapest shipping is outrageous! They want 21.00 bucks for their cheapest option. These things could be put in a USPS mailer envelope for pennies. I might call them later to explore that option.
So, if it leaks out of the top cover breather, why is it not going to leak out of the newly installed tail-shaft breather? I would think it would leak easier from there due to the lower location and gravity vs. the top cover?

cdnus · #3 (**permalink**) 06-21-2016, 07:17 AM

You should see what we in Canada have to pay, shipping, brokers fees, taxes and just" because we can " charges.
The cover and vent are located over a bunch of gears slinging hot oil every which direction, the tailshaft vent is not. There is very little oil being slung about other than a bit off the speedo gear.
All I can say is it worked for mine. Transmission is bone dry after many k's.
Craig.

davids2toys · #4 (**permalink**) 06-21-2016, 06:12 AM

Dan, I used to think it was, but now I am not so sure. I think it was coming from the top cover. That job also looks like something that could be done after the tunnel is back in place if it really needs too be done.
I would agree with you though, better to do it while it is all open. So, how easy is it. Want to give me a step by step? If it is a no-brainer, I will do it. I have a lot going on right now and time is not my friend unfortunately. I just want to do the jobs on the list with the tunnel out. All the other stuff I was going to do will have to wait until next winter. I have been saying this for a few years now, LOL. Parts are still on the shelf!
I have got to get this car running and off the lift because I have work to do on the Mustang and Toyota. These are my DD's so they have to be the priority unfortunately.
So my short list of jobs at the moment while the interior is out are:
-Install a accessary power outlet
-tranny cover gasket
-New clutch slave and master cyl, Including fire-sleeving the line from the res to the Master. Real nice to do with the tunnel out because you can play with the adjustment and measure fork travel at the same time from inside the car while you are pushing on the clutch!
-Properly shim seats studs and install the crotch belts
-Drill two 1/8" holes in bottom of MSD box because it is mounted upside down
-Rewire MSD box so the POS and NEG wires go directly to battery per MSD instructions and per their Tech dept
- re-torque driveshaft hardware

davids2toys · #5 (**permalink**) 06-21-2016, 08:32 AM

Yeah, I have heard that about Canada...that sucks!

What you say makes perfect sense, thanks for explaining it. Can I drill this with the fluid in side? Maybe use grease on the drill or have a vacuum running next to the spinning drill bit to catch all the chips. Definitely grease on the tap for the same reason.

cdnus · #6 (**permalink**) 06-21-2016, 08:45 AM

I have heard of people doing that, but I prefer not to.
To remove the tailshaft to drill, tap and thoroughly flush and blow out and ensures you don't end up with chips in there.
I have seen the damage caused by this in the past, not pretty.
Craig

davids2toys · #7 (**permalink**) 06-21-2016, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdnus

I have heard of people doing that, but I prefer not to.
To remove the tailshaft to drill, tap and thoroughly flush and blow out and ensures you don't end up with chips in there.
I have seen the damage caused by this in the past, not pretty.
Craig

I thought somewhere in this thread you mentioned the drill and tap size and now I can't find it?
EDIT: Never-mind, I found it on the site just where I saw it...lol

"With this air vent the hole in the top cover is no longer needed and can be blocked to stop oil from leaking out of it constantly. Use a letter R drill bit and 1/8” pipe thread tap to install the vent on the top of the tailhousing. "

cdnus · #8 (**permalink**) 06-21-2016, 12:35 PM

A letter R or a 21/64 drill bit with a 1/8" NPT
Should get it done.

davids2toys · #9 (**permalink**) 06-26-2016, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdnus

A letter R or a 21/64 drill bit with a 1/8" NPT
Should get it done.

Got it yesterday and I will be attempting it this afternoon. Cool looking little vent!

davids2toys · #10 (**permalink**) 06-21-2016, 08:59 AM

understood, thanks

davids2toys · #11 (**permalink**) 06-21-2016, 01:08 PM

Yes, I found it on his site as I said above.

I just ordered it from David Kee.

Bernica · #12 (**permalink**) 06-21-2016, 01:16 PM

Kee is the go-to guy on Toploaders IMHO.

davids2toys · #13 (**permalink**) 06-21-2016, 03:55 PM

Yes, very knowledgeable and a nice guy. He also hooked me up on the shipping cost and minimum order crapola

Jac Mac · #14 (**permalink**) 06-28-2016, 05:27 AM

Ditto to Brent in above post... FYI there are some models of Top Loader that simply use a longer spring in this position that is retained by the cover, any attempt to use the screw on that spring/type will result in 1st & 2nd being very difficult if not impossible to shift.

davids2toys · #15 (**permalink**) 06-28-2016, 10:12 AM

Thank you Brent and JacMac,
Yeah, I thought it was flush with the tranny deck surface when I took it out. I guess no need to worry about it backing out because of the top cover serving as a stop.
Dave

davids2toys · #16 (**permalink**) 06-28-2016, 08:02 PM

Everything is all clean and ready to go back together. actually thinking of skipping the paper gasket and just using the Permatex Ultra grey as I did with the rear end cover. Originally I was just going to put some of it on both sides of the paper gasket as a dressing and Torque it to 15 ft lbs.
If you use the Permatex as the sole gasket, it is a whole different set of instructions per the tube. Tighten until squeeze out, wait one hour and tighten 1/4-1/2 more turns. That is all well and good, but if you have the situation where the threads need to be sealed, I would then think: mark fastener positions, pull all fasteners after the 1 hour period and coat threads with sealer, then tighten 1/2 turn past the marked position.
Any thoughts on this?

Bernica · #17 (**permalink**) 06-28-2016, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davids2toys

Everything is all clean and ready to go back together. actually thinking of skipping the paper gasket and just using the Permatex Ultra grey as I did with the rear end cover. Originally I was just going to put some of it on both sides of the paper gasket as a dressing and Torque it to 15 ft lbs.
If you use the Permatex as the sole gasket, it is a whole different set of instructions per the tube. Tighten until squeeze out, wait one hour and tighten 1/4-1/2 more turns. That is all well and good, but if you have the situation where the threads need to be sealed, I would then think: mark fastener positions, pull all fasteners after the 1 hour period and coat threads with sealer, then tighten 1/2 turn past the marked position.
Any thoughts on this?

I think your are way over thinking it IMHO.

davids2toys · #18 (**permalink**) 06-29-2016, 05:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bernica

I think your are way over thinking it IMHO.

I understand why you would/could think that. Also why it is YOUR opinion. Maybe I lack the experience you or others have, so I ask people who are smarter than me in any particular area. I like to do things right the first time. I don't like ripping things back apart to do it right the second or third time, especially if the interior has to come back out...no thanks!
You know what they say about stupid questions right?
You also know what they say about opinions

Jac Mac · #19 (**permalink**) 06-28-2016, 11:33 PM

The gasket also acts as a baffle between the lube and the original breather hole in the top cover, as long as you have now blocked that original breather hole now that you have fitted the replacement breather in the tail housing you should not have a problem. However be aware now that you have no gasket that the 'feel' as you tighten the bolts will be different since there is no gasket to compress or squash.

With regard to checking ratios its quite simple with the top cover removed.
Look at the gear on input shaft at front of case next to the front input shaft bearing, if the tooth outer dia is virtually the same as the OD of input shaft bearing its a close ratio ( 2.32/1 low )....... if its about 1/4" smaller in OD than the input shaft bearing its a wide ratio ( 2.78/1 low by the look of your earlier pic of the phillips head detent screw you can just see the gear at front being noticeably smaller than brg, so it looks like you have wide ratio)

Also back in the 62 / 68 era with the Nascar stuff and T44 transaxle for the GT40 MKII & MKIV there were many more ratio options for these box's, about six different options IIRC

davids2toys · #20 (**permalink**) 06-29-2016, 05:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jac Mac

The gasket also acts as a baffle between the lube and the original breather hole in the top cover, as long as you have now blocked that original breather hole now that you have fitted the replacement breather in the tail housing you should not have a problem. However be aware now that you have no gasket that the 'feel' as you tighten the bolts will be different since there is no gasket to compress or squash.

With regard to checking ratios its quite simple with the top cover removed.
Look at the gear on input shaft at front of case next to the front input shaft bearing, if the tooth outer dia is virtually the same as the OD of input shaft bearing its a close ratio ( 2.32/1 low )....... if its about 1/4" smaller in OD than the input shaft bearing its a wide ratio ( 2.78/1 low by the look of your earlier pic of the phillips head detent screw you can just see the gear at front being noticeably smaller than brg, so it looks like you have wide ratio)

Also back in the 62 / 68 era with the Nascar stuff and T44 transaxle for the GT40 MKII & MKIV there were many more ratio options for these box's, about six different options IIRC

Yes, understood about the gasket and yes, I will be sealing the little hole in the cover. So if I was to use only sealer I would follow directions on the tube. I normally don't use the "feel" technique if I can avoid it, I try to use a Torque wrench when possible. Going with grey sealer only would eliminate the Torque wrench anyway because you would just squeeze out all the sealer. That is why the special directions on the tube.
I had already established the wide ratio by counting the second gear teeth as was suggested by Bernica earlier in this thread. Your way is nice to know also. Knowledge is power!!!
Thanks