Clutch recomendations?

[MadMonkey41]

Hey guys,
I'm new to the forum as well as my 2007 Backdraft racing cobra. I'm running a 408 stroker motor (530hp) to a tko 600. I would love to be driving it but my clutch is slipping. Any recommendations on a replacement?

[fordracing65]

Mcleod twin disc, Blykins sells them..., trust him on this one, He is the Jedi of clutches...

[blykins]

I think a twin disc would be a little overkill here unless you're wanting something that drives like a Honda. I would actually reach for a RAM Powergrip in this scenario. Would be happy to help if you need an exact recommendation.

[RICK LAKE]

MadMonkey41 What kind of driving are we doing?? Street,1/4 MIle, autocross, Cruising? Also what abuse level are we looking to do? Last thing, How deep is your pocket? Cheap clutch, about $200.00 with organic disc rebuilt. Full race setup with flywheel 1,200.00$. I have had both single and dual disc setups. with a 600+ torque motor. The single disc gives more feedback and the dual. Dual doesn't slip, and feed back is almost the same. Without talking to you, Street twin setup with a hydro bearing. Last side note, DON'T buy a piece of junk like Centerforce with there loading pressure plate, IT CRAP. Rick L.

[undy]

I'm running the single disc Ram on my 600hp 482" cobra and it's been fine. Smooth engagement and no slip. I'm running drag radials too and really put the power down.

My 640hp C6 Z06 uses Mcleod's RXT dual disc. It's rated to 1000hp and doesn't slip although it tends to have some engagement chatter. The chatter is sort of common and has been reported by many. Had I an opportunity to do it over again I'd probably have selected a different clutch.

[Tommy]

Madmonkey,
In the absence of more info from you, we can speculate a lot about WHY your clutch is slipping. I had chronic clutch problems until I finally replaced my POS HTOB with an external hydraulic actuator / fork unit. Along the way I mistakenly kept trying more aggressive clutch discs to solve the problem. I ended up with s SPEC Stage 3 carbon-graphite clutch disc. It has never slipped but works almost like an on-off switch. With many years of practice behind me, I can manage a smooth, chatter-free departure from most traffic lights. But i still get the occasional shudder. .... The moral of my story is that it would help us answer your question better if you knew and shared with us why your clutch is slipping.

[blykins]

Good point....could just be out of adjustment.

I've seen several instances though in the past where installers/customers have thought that the traditional King Cobra clutch kit will work in their 400-500-600 hp applications. An't gonna happen.

How much horsepower do you have Tommy? Many single disc apps out there that don't require the on/off switch clutch. I stuck a Spec clutch in a buddy's '03 Cobra once and I vowed to never use one ever again....LOL

[madmaxx]

Start from zero. Check to ensure your slave cylinder "housing" is not pushing on your clutch fork. Ensure when the clutch is off the slave push rod is not pushing on yoour clutch fork. Strange a clutch would already be worn out unless it was partially engaged when it should be.

Use blykins. in my experience I have never had an issue with centerforce or Mcleoud? than again i dont race and shift gradually so as not to ram the sheet out of everything. I did miss a shift once from 1st to 2nd and went 1st to 4th, i am surprised the transmission didnt come throught the floor the clutch never slipped it was a centerforce with 520 hp.

[blykins]

I would suggest against using Centerforce stuff if you can help it. I've never had a customer email me back and say that their McLeod or RAM clutch wasn't holding (correctly spec'd of course), but I get email after email after phone call about Centerforce stuff.

The issue is with the pressure plate. It's a standard Luk/Sachs/Valeo plate that you buy from Autozone/O'Reilly, but they add their own counterweights to the fingers. The issue is, the counterweights are not dependable enough. Sometimes they engage too soon (Cobra owners have this problem quite often) and sometimes they don't engage soon enough. A lot of guys end up removing the weights because they interfere with driving, but then end back up with a stock OEM replacement pressure plate.

I think Rick Lake has a nice story about how a Centerforce clutch ended up costing him a couple thou....

McLeod and RAM are the two best clutch kits out there, IMO. I've lost track of how many I've sold over the years, and I think I've had one McLeod pressure plate come back to me because of a defective spring.

Pretty good statistics.

[MadMonkey41]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

MadMonkey41 What kind of driving are we doing?? Street,1/4 MIle, autocross, Cruising? Also what abuse level are we looking to do? Last thing, How deep is your pocket? Cheap clutch, about $200.00 with organic disc rebuilt. Full race setup with flywheel 1,200.00$. I have had both single and dual disc setups. with a 600+ torque motor. The single disc gives more feedback and the dual. Dual doesn't slip, and feed back is almost the same. Without talking to you, Street twin setup with a hydro bearing. Last side note, DON'T buy a piece of junk like Centerforce with there loading pressure plate, IT CRAP. Rick L.

Rick, This is a weekend driver, I will probably drag it a few times and auto cross it a time or two. Primarily just cruising around town. I'm not trying to spend more than $600 on parts maybe a little more. Thanks for the help.

[MadMonkey41]

Originally Posted by Tommy

Madmonkey,
In the absence of more info from you, we can speculate a lot about WHY your clutch is slipping. I had chronic clutch problems until I finally replaced my POS HTOB with an external hydraulic actuator / fork unit. Along the way I mistakenly kept trying more aggressive clutch discs to solve the problem. I ended up with s SPEC Stage 3 carbon-graphite clutch disc. It has never slipped but works almost like an on-off switch. With many years of practice behind me, I can manage a smooth, chatter-free departure from most traffic lights. But i still get the occasional shudder. .... The moral of my story is that it would help us answer your question better if you knew and shared with us why your clutch is slipping.

I'm no mechanic so bare with me. The vehicle shifts smoothly from gear to gear but once the clutch is engaged I can feel the loss of power. The RPMs jump if I moderately get on the throttle (like the clutch is slipping) but the vehicle doesn't accelerate. I can smell the clutch burning when this happens. I have only had the car about a month but only been able to drive it a handful of times.

I purchased it in San Francisco so when I test drove it I was barely even able to get out of 2nd gear. I figure I should have noticed this when I test drove it but O well. Hope this helps and thanks for your time.

[blykins]

Could still be a possibility of a bad adjustment. Do you know how to check or what to look for?

[RICK LAKE]

MadMonkey41 Can we get a first name?? Blykins sell both setups. Mcleod or Ram will work just fine. As long as you stay away from the 5,000 rpm hole shots a single disc will work. I do like the spring hub and not the solid disc for driving. It helps absorb the power shock to the trans and rearend if you get playfull. If abuse is alot, you want the clutch to be the part that breaks first and not a trans or rearend. Working on your driving skills also helps extend the life of any clutch. Rolling on and off the throttle. If you have a problem or need help will be in Navato on May 9 for a day. Have sick Uncle there. Coming to visit for a couple of days. One side note, make sure the bellhousing is centered on the block when you replace the clutch. need a dail indicator for this. Rick L.

[Tommy]

Blykins,
I never had my HP tested. I'd guess 400-425 at the wheels.

Madmonkey,
I used to fly for the Air Force, and after every flight I'd have to note any problems with the airplane. I was taught early on to not try and diagnose the problem, just describe the symptom and let the expert mechanics fix it. ... If you don't know enough about clutches to properly diagnose it (and there is no shame in that), either start down the long path of learning such things, or get someone who does know such things to diagnose it for you. Otherwise you'll have to keep throwing parts at it until it runs right, and that can get expensive. ... Good luck.

[blykins]

Next time to freshen the clutch up Tommy, try a RAM Powergrip. You get the clamping capability without the light switch operation and chatter.

[MadMonkey41]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

MadMonkey41 Can we get a first name?? Blykins sell both setups. Mcleod or Ram will work just fine. As long as you stay away from the 5,000 rpm hole shots a single disc will work. I do like the spring hub and not the solid disc for driving. It helps absorb the power shock to the trans and rearend if you get playfull. If abuse is alot, you want the clutch to be the part that breaks first and not a trans or rearend. Working on your driving skills also helps extend the life of any clutch. Rolling on and off the throttle. If you have a problem or need help will be in Navato on May 9 for a day. Have sick Uncle there. Coming to visit for a couple of days. One side note, make sure the bellhousing is centered on the block when you replace the clutch. need a dail indicator for this. Rick L.

Rick,
My name is John. Thanks for the info. I figured I wasn't going to fix this on my own and took it down to the shop. Ill update my problems when I find out! Thanks for everyone's help. If the clutch is bad I think I'm goin with the RAM.

[MadMonkey41]

Originally Posted by Tommy

Blykins,
I never had my HP tested. I'd guess 400-425 at the wheels.

Madmonkey,
I used to fly for the Air Force, and after every flight I'd have to note any problems with the airplane. I was taught early on to not try and diagnose the problem, just describe the symptom and let the expert mechanics fix it. ... If you don't know enough about clutches to properly diagnose it (and there is no shame in that), either start down the long path of learning such things, or get someone who does know such things to diagnose it for you. Otherwise you'll have to keep throwing parts at it until it runs right, and that can get expensive. ... Good luck.

I agree! I took it to the shop this morning