T5 TO bearing help

Conchyjodyoos · #1 (**permalink**) 04-11-2016, 04:02 PM

My car is a 1997 CC with a 351c and T5. I recently bought the car and it has only 1300miles yet is has this very annoying squeek coming from up front. It happens in or out of gear but stops once the clutch is depressed or even if I lightly press on the clutch. It seems the throwout bearing and/or pivot have dried out and probably developed some rust.
With only 1300 miles and all new in 1997 one would assume the clutch is fine so today I tried to separate the transmission from the bell housing but it would only part about 3/4" then it seemed to hang up on something. The drive shaft is removed and all bolts loose but she won't let loose so I shut everything down and cracked a beer. I'm working on a lift with plenty of supports plus under hoist stand but this is my first time attempting such a job. Any ideas? Thx, Mike

olddog · #2 (**permalink**) 04-11-2016, 05:36 PM

When your not touching the clutch pedal, springs should pull the pedal to the top, and the through out bearing should not touch the pressure plate. In other words when set up properly, the TO bearing does not touch or turn unless your pressing on the clutch pedal. So either something is not set up correctly (and will fail again, if not corrected) or the problem you describe is not the TO bearing.

Tranny should slide out. Perhaps something is gummed up on the shaft. Maybe some light prying is needed. Or try working the clutch. It may push the tranny out (two person job). Been so long since I pulled a tranny, I'm not much help.

I assume from your description that it is not a hydraulic TO, in which case there are hydraulic lines that has to be removed.

Gaz64 · #3 (**permalink**) 04-11-2016, 07:51 PM

Is is a high pitched squeal/squeak?

Sounds like the contact face of the throwout bearing on the pressure plate fingers.

If this is a normal push clutch, the trans should come off like normal, the only thing that could stop it would be the input shaft is reluctant to come out of the spigot bearing in the rear of the crankshaft.

Gary

Conchyjodyoos · #4 (**permalink**) 04-13-2016, 07:01 AM

After a good night's rest I discovered the rear shifter adjustment bolt, hidden by carpet, was the reason for the hang up. Once free the everything came apart. With all that work completed and a clutch staring at me I couldn't resist so I pulled it and found a wallowed out bushing where the input shaft rests. This morning I'm replacing the bushing with a bearing, cleaning everything up and back together she goes including a new, made in the USA TO bearing. A lot of work over fricking squeek! Thx for all the input everyone.

Gaz64 · #5 (**permalink**) 04-14-2016, 12:45 AM

Yes, replace the bearing in the back of the crank.

But by your description, that's not the squeak you are talking about.

You mentioned the noise as in just touching the pedal.

RET_COP · #6 (**permalink**) 04-14-2016, 02:30 AM

If you have a cable clutch Put a little pressure on the TOB with adjustment that will stop the squeak.When TOB just touch the fingers it will cause this sound. In cable clutch Diaphragm setups on Fords it's common to have light pressure on the TOB without any issues. TKO transmissions shift cleaner this way also, especially hitting third gear, and we all know that can be a problem. I found it gives the blocker rings a little mote time to match gears. If you think you'll wear out the TOB to quickly-- maybe in 75,000 miles but the trade offs and the frequency of disk replacement in my opinion and for me personally it works great. I just pulled my clutch apart this month for an Aluminum Flywheel install and all looked good. If your not comfortable doing this just back off on the adjustment and create a gap and it will disappear but you better have enough gap between your disk and PP on disengagement or your shifting quality will suffer.

RET_COP · #7 (**permalink**) 04-14-2016, 02:39 AM

I just saw post # 4, glad you found your problem. I should have read the thread better. squeaks and rattles drive me nuts

Conchyjodyoos · #8 (**permalink**) 04-15-2016, 05:15 AM

What I discovered was the whoever installed the clutch never pressed in the bushing, it was just riding on the outside edge of the crank shaft hole it was supposed to live in. Forward pressure from the input shaft was the only thing keeping it somewhat centered. As you can see this thing was in near grenade mode, I can only image what would have happened if this let loose @5000rpm. Anyway, its all back together with the proper pilot bearing installed. Thanks everyone for the input and at least I found the squeek

oh, and the clutch is now adjusted properly, it was out 3/4"

bobcowan · #9 (**permalink**) 04-15-2016, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olddog

In other words when set up properly, the TO bearing does not touch or turn unless your pressing on the clutch pedal.

Not exactly true. In older Mustangs with a mechanical linkage, this is true. The bearing should not touch the fingers of the clutch.

But the T5 is different. To decrease noise, Ford designed the bearing to rest on the fingers. The automatic clutch adjuster installed in Ford cars and trucks since mid 80's or so are all designed to put a little bit of pressure on the bearing. Not enough to actually cause pre-load, but enough to provide gentle contact.

If you're using a cable type clutch, with a standard T5 TOB and a diaphragm clutch, you need some contact.

Also, over the years I have found that a genuine Ford TOB is the best quality.