Throw out bearing free play on my ERA

[Dominik]

You need play, or very light pressure, to compensate for the wear of the friction disk.

I believe 3 mm is enough. Bear in mind that the ratio fingers to disk is 7:1 which allows for very little wear in thickness of the friction material until the clutch is worn out (and you're riding the rivets).

If your play is too small or the TO bearing won't allow the fingers to move sufficiently your clutch will slip prematurely.

[DanEC]

I believe this is the TO bearing I have on my car - looks exactly like this and my clutch components are McLeod. It's rated for constant contact so I guess light contact is not going to hurt it - or at least that is what I make of the statement, "constant running".

https://www.jegs.com/i/McLeod/673/16031/10002/-1

It would take a really big, stiff spring to fully retract the master cylinder and slave cylinders against their internal springs. So I guess I'll just put the one I had on it back on to lighten the contact slightly and call it good.

I vaguely remembered a prior thread on this subject from way back and managed to find it if anyone is wanting to refresh old memories.

Throw out bearing always makes contact?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by DanEC

I vaguely remembered a prior thread on this subject from way back and managed to find it if anyone is wanting to refresh old memories.

Throw out bearing always makes contact?

That's the same thread I referenced in my first post. I've seen the McLeod TOBs with the zerk fitting. If you wanted to, could you grease it through the fork hole? I'm thinking if you had it in an off-road mud car of some sort.

[DanEC]

I overlooked that link you posted - not real observant. The zerk fitting is facing the clutch of all things. I will probably pull it out and give it a shot before starting it back together again. Don't want it too full though to where it slings grease out.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by DanEC

I overlooked that link you posted - not real observant. The zerk fitting is facing the clutch of all things. I will probably pull it out and give it a shot before starting it back together again. Don't want it too full though to where it slings grease out.

Well, if you're going to pull it out... In that thread that we both reference, the single most important post is on the fourth page and it is by stallion112, who works in the TOB industry. He clearly explains the difference between "standard" and "self aligning" throw out bearings. The latter require just a bit of preload. My FM 614038 is clearly described as a "sealed and self aligning" TOB. I can not tell if your McLeod is self-aligning or not. I do not know why they even make "standard" TOBs anymore, but that choice, as opposed to "self aligning," is one of the filter choices on Summit Racing and other parts warehouses. Anyway, that's the Cliff Notes version of the difference.

[patrickt]

And for our mechanical engineers out there that demand a detailed, and thorough, explanation of the Federal Mogul "self-aligning" mechanism, here it is: https://patents.google.com/patent/US4534458

Now, since FM holds that particular patent, obviously their TOBs use that particular method. And the fact that they are sealed makes it really easy to avoid overlubing the zerk (since there ain't one).

And I still can't tell you whether the McLeod TOB is self-aligning or not.

[Dominik]

Since FM holds the patent, isn't it safe to say that others don't, and as such won't have the self-aligning version? :-)