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T-5 with hydraulic clutch
I just finished coverting my Cobra from a C-4 auto to a T-5 5speed. I used the correct weight flywheel (28 oz.) for my 1968 302 engine as well as a "Rhino" brand diaphram clutch assembly and Mustang t-5 thow-out bearing. After installing everything, the throw-out bearing is resting on the clutch fingers with the clutch fork ressting on the end of the bellhousing opening. I have the CNC slave cylinder pushing as far as will travel and it seems that I still don't have enough travel to completely engage the clutch completely. I am afraid that if I adjust the rod from the slave cylinder, it will preload the throw-out bearing and wear it out quickly.
Any suggestions?? Gman |
Gman,
What bell did you use? A T5 bell or a toploader bell? |
Are you using the right pivot clutch fork and correct pivot point?
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I am using the V8 T-5 bell housing and pivot as well as clutch fork.
Greg |
Did you put the clutch disc in backwards? Sorry, had to ask...I'm sure you know, but there should be like a 1/4" or so between the TOB and the fingers on the PP. The clutch fork should also point forward towards the engine block when the clutch is released.
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Sounds like the disc is in backwards. It should say on it FLYWHEEL Side.
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I did install the clutch plate the correct way, and I checked everything several times. I am thinking that either I have the wrong throw-out bearing or the pivot point bolt is too long. Not sure what else could be the problem.
Greg |
I don't think I've ever seen a T-5 bellhousing inside... does it pivot on the driver's side near the clutch fork hole, or does it pivot on the passenger side? Did all the clutch components come in a kit or did you order them all separately? You said it was a Rhino clutch assembly....wasn't for sure if that included everything or not.
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The stock T-5 fork mounts and pivots on the passenger side and is a pull system in that the factory cable would pull the fork to the front of the car not a push style like the older linkage type.
Are you trying to push the fork from the rear or from the front? |
Greg,
This clutch thing is really getting out of hand:D :D :D Did you ever resolve your other issue with the clutch? http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/show...threadid=50695 Can't help but wonder if this isn't part of your problem too... like maybe someone sold you the wrong parts for this job? - Jim - |
The clutch kit I ordered included the flywheel with the 28oz imbalance, pressure plate and clutch disk as well as the pilot bearing. Everything is intalled and I drove the car last week around town a few miles or so and there are no strange noises and it seems to be working ok, but there is zero clearance between the throw out bearing and the clutck fingers. If I remove everything and install a shorter pivot stud, that would solve the problem, but I feel that this shouldn't have happened.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33732 this is the exact clutch assembly I bought and installed, except I used a T-5 throw-out bearinh in place of the one shown here Greg |
Can I replace the pivot point with a shorter one and then get a smaller diameter slave cylinder to provide a longer throw?
Greg |
You can buy adjustable pivots, but I don't know how much it would give you....if any....Jegs has them...I think Lakewood makes them.
Is there some reason you're worried that the clutch is not disengaging? If you could put it up on jackstands, push the clutch in and wait...and then put it in gear or reverse, chances are everything is working. Does seem awfully weird though.. the way you described everything being setup. |
If the brearing is on the clutch it may work now but as the disc wears the clutch will start to slip and it is all over from there. You need to have more room for adjustment.
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Hey Greg,
You say the clutch fork is resting against the front part of the hole in the bellhousing? I guess you're using a push-type slave cylinder right? Pushing from the back? Aren't setups like that made for cables? I thought the majority of hydraulic setups pushed from the front or pulled from the rear. Here's a quote from my Shell Valley manual: "A clutch problem has arose due to certain types of bellhousings being used. DO NOT try to use a hydraulic clutch system with a bellhousing made for a cable clutch. The pivot point on a cable clutch bell housing is in the wrong place and will cause you problems getting enough travel to disengage the clutch." I think that's your problem, Greg. I really don't think those bellhousings are made to be used hydraulically.....you may have to go to a cable setup....or swap bellhousings. |
That was not the news or info I was looking for. I will try to figure something out. I have seen a few hydraulic conversion kits specifically for the 5.0 engine with the T-5.
I will keep tryinh. Thanks, Greg |
You could switch to a cable setup pretty easily couldn't you? Just requires a quadrant, adjuster, and cable.....like $100 from Jegs....I bet any other conversion kits would require changing the clutch fork and/or pivot ball.......
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1 Attachment(s)
Here's a pix of "pull" style clutch forks with "push" type hydraulic slaves.
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1 Attachment(s)
And a second..... I found these on this forum, so can't take credit for the fabrication.
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That picture from Cobra20646 is a T5 Lower hydraulic clutch conversion kit from JMC in San Diego (619-230-8866). The kit includes mounting bracket, slave cylinder, and braided steel pressure line. I used the the JMC kit in my car and it seems to work very well.
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