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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2004, 12:09 PM
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Default Toploader Throw out bearing Help!!!!

Hello All,

I am looking to purchase a Hydraulic Throw out bearing. I see a lot of people complain about the McCloud unit. I currently have a 427 fe with a toploader transmission. Can anyone help with recommendations and part numbers Please.
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Old 10-25-2004, 01:53 PM
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http://www.tiltonracing.com/driveline/pdf/600series.pdf


Here is a link for Tilton. Top quality stuff.


Rick
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Old 10-25-2004, 02:17 PM
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Sorry I forgot to include that I am using a Lakewood Blowproof Bell housing. I am also using a Centerforce Dual friction clutch have you had success with this?
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Old 10-26-2004, 10:22 AM
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Can someone help me with a part # of a Tilton Hydraulic Release bearing for the following setup:

Lakewood bellhousing
Centerforce Dual friction clutch
Center force aluminum flywheel
Centerforce Pressure plate
Toploader Transmission

I wouldlike to use Tilton. I have heard bad stories about McCloud.
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Old 10-26-2004, 10:27 AM
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Why don't you use a typical slave cyclinder and fork arrangement? The internal hydro release bearing is SUCH a pain in the butt to get "right". And you gotta pull the trans (or engine) if you don't get it right. That seems to happen a lot.

I bet the "bad things" your hearing about MCleod apply to tilton as well. It's not about who makes it, it's about who installs it!
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Old 10-26-2004, 10:42 AM
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I hear that the folk and slave are just as bad to align. I also hear that you have abetter travel with the HTOB.


Excaliber,
Are you using a slave and fork
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Old 10-26-2004, 10:46 AM
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I have the slave and fork setup and wouldn't have it any other way.

It is easy, inexpensive and works.

I used a fabricated bracket to allow me to position the slave cylinder any where I wanted.

You can get the master and slave at Pegasus Racing.

I agree with Ernie or "Slick"
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Old 10-26-2004, 11:24 AM
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Yup, slave and fork here. There is more information available about the mods required for a a fork application than there are for the hydro unit.

Basically, depending on what brand replica you have, you have to modify (trim with grinder, saw etc) the bottom outside edge of the fork to clear the cars frame rail. The motor sits LOW. Then you need a plate (no big deal, can buy them) to mount your slave on. The "rod" between the slave and the fork can be as simple as a piece of "all thread" with a couple of "nuts" on it. In SOME cases the bell housing and bell housing "plate" need to be trimmed (saw, grinder, etc). There are pics and templates available for this. NOTE: On my ERA the bell housing DID NOT have to be trimmed. The "Fork" was, but I'm not sure it "had" to be.

On "Gasholes.com" under "Your Car" there are "threads" that have some great pics and commentary on how to do it. Also a "search" here on CC should turn up some good stuff.

Try "Gasholes.com", "Your Car", "Lakewood Bell housing pains" for one example.
http://www.gasholes.com/smf/index.php?topic=3819.0

Last edited by Excaliber; 09-17-2008 at 07:46 PM..
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Old 10-26-2004, 11:30 AM
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I did a post for another user who is doing the same thing and I gave details.

Do a search on : tilton master pegasus.

You can read that thread to find out more about each system.

I can tell you that when you need to work on the clutch system, this slave system is as easy as three bolts.
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Old 10-26-2004, 11:49 AM
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Trularin is correct. We have used them on a number of builds and the external slave is a breeze. If you screw up the internal bearing one time, you will be converted to the external in a heartbeat.

Sometimes the simple solution is the best.
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Old 10-26-2004, 11:53 AM
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Thanks for all of the help you guys

What is the pedal like is hard?
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