TKO 600 Problem

CWizard · #1 (**permalink**) 04-27-2006, 11:06 AM

When I got into my car this morning, I found the transmission (a Tremec TKO 600) stuck in 1st gear. I say it's in 1st because that's where I left it 3 days ago and also the car drives like it's in 1st. When I last drove it, everything was fine. Even prior to then, there have been no indications of a transmission problem (except for a low volume, high pitched whine coming from the rear that started about 1000 miles ago, and which remains undiagnosed). Now, the shift lever will move from side to side and feels normal when so moved, but it will not go into any gear when the clutch pedal is pressed, regardless of engine on or off. The clutch action appears normal - it disengages when the pedal is pushed and engages when it's released; ie, the car acts just like it normally does in 1st gear. Car has 7500 miles on it. Could this possibly be a clutch problem? Help! And thanks in advance.

JayBar · #2 (**permalink**) 04-27-2006, 03:49 PM

Try releasing the e-brake and rocking the car back and forth agressively. That may let it release from first gear.

Iceberg · #3 (**permalink**) 04-27-2006, 05:00 PM

I am having the exact same problem with my TKO600. Mime has only 500 miles and not one has been that aggressively driven.

I will try the rocking trick before I dive into taking off the tunnel to get at the trans.

baldeagle · #4 (**permalink**) 04-27-2006, 05:19 PM

I had the same problem a while back - - mine locked up in third gear - - it happend at slow speed while driving around the gas pumps.
Long story short - -you will need to pull the unit out and add block stops to prevent this - - TKO told me they only had trouble with their race set-up-I told them I was not racing

but not sure they believed me.
After their fix ( stops ) to prevent over throw - I have not had any more problems.

HSSS427 · #5 (**permalink**) 04-27-2006, 06:00 PM

Baldeagle - Can you share any more detail? I have a new TKO 600 RR model that I just put in about 100 miles ago. Did a small autocross last weekend - and I mean small in that I never got out of first gear. No problems. What exactly is a block stop? Is there any reference material on the issue from Tremec? Any way to tell if the problem is going to occur, or do you just have to wait till it happens/
Thanks!

baldeagle · #6 (**permalink**) 04-27-2006, 06:10 PM

Well - - the blocks are to prevent over throw - - it stops it from going past where it should during shifting.
I didnt do the work - my car was still under warranty.
Reg Dodd at BackDraft took care of it! He said they would normally just swap it out but they didnt have any TKO600's in their inventory - - so they fixed mine.

Iceberg · #7 (**permalink**) 04-27-2006, 07:48 PM

What exactly is a block stop?

Thanks,

Kurt

LMH · #8 (**permalink**) 04-27-2006, 07:51 PM

I thought the 600 had block stops already installed from the factory. I remember reading that when I bought mine. No?
Larry

LMH · #9 (**permalink**) 04-27-2006, 10:43 PM

Quote from ttc automotive: "Consistent with all TREMEC transmissions, shift stops are not necessary, since the stops are internal to the transmission."
Larry

Ant · #10 (**permalink**) 04-28-2006, 12:25 AM

I dont want to hop on the bandwagon and bag these transmissions, but in real terms they are only a road car transmission and racing etc in higher powered cars like Cobras isnt really what they are designed for, there seems to be continuous problems with them. I was contemplating buying one but went for a Jerico five speed at 80Ibs, 1000bhp rated!

For a bit more than twice the price, a G-force or Jerico transmission for race type use and careful road use, these transmissions take very little HP to drive due to straight cut gearset, handle twice the HP of your TKO-600RR, which the RR is a joke calling it a "ROAD RACE TRANSMISSION" and the race transmissions are a lot easier to change the dogs etc, further a lot lighter than a TKO!

Having said all that dont take this post seriously as the TKO-600 generally is quite good value for money for a lot of people, just dont give it a hard time, I know of some in the UK behind 600hp Cobras and they just sh*t themselves!
One guy has gone for a G-force which have a good reputation also.

CWizard · #11 (**permalink**) 04-28-2006, 06:29 PM

After some discussions with Tremec tech support and some other Cobra owners, I removed the tunnel to allow access to the top of the transmission. Removed the inspection plate just in front of the shift tower and found the tranny stuck in 2nd gear. Used a screwdriver to unstick it (had to disengage the clutch first). Problem fixed. Except, of course, putting the interior of the car back together. But why did it stick??
My fellow Cobra owners tell me this lock-up can be caused by bumping the shift lever while the car is parked (engine off) and in gear. Apparently it can happen in any gear, although 1st, 2nd, 5th, and reverse are more susceptible. That is reasonably consistent with info from Tremec, who concluded my problem was likely "creep of the shift finger to the point it escapes between the shift gateshaft", and recommended parking only in 3rd or 4th (or neutral) to avoid recurrence.
Hope this is useful to some of you Tremec owners.

LMH · #12 (**permalink**) 04-28-2006, 06:34 PM

Good info!
Larry

ttmb · #13 (**permalink**) 04-28-2006, 06:59 PM

I, for one, have decided not to park in gear, unless I have to. Then I'll use only 3 or 4, if necessary. The problem occurs in 1, 2, and 5, due to the lockout lug that prevents shifting from 5 to R while driving (as I understand it). I have the newer style disk parking brake on the differential flange, and it seems to be quite strong. The transmission is a great value, and is smooth and plenty strong for my sb engine with only 515 hp/500# torque.

Tom

Iceberg · #14 (**permalink**) 04-28-2006, 07:05 PM

I should get my tunnel off tomorrow and will use your post as my guide.

It is funny how this happening to so many TKO owners at the same time.
I have also been talking to Tremec Tech support.

How did you disengage the clutch?

Iceberg · #15 (**permalink**) 04-28-2006, 07:08 PM

Iforgot to ask, how did you break the seal on the tunnel. I have the 10 bolts out but I am having issue removing the tunnel. How did you break the grip of that black stuff. How did you reseal it.

Thanks,

Kurt

CWizard · #16 (**permalink**) 04-29-2006, 09:35 AM

Kurt - There are 11 screws to be removed. Keep looking. I started on the front lower edges using a hefty screwdriver to pry. Just keep working with it, prying around the edges until you can get your fingers underneath and begin to pull upward. You may need to use the screwdriver all the way around to loosen it initially. Damn stuff is so sticky that it glues right back when you release it. I think it would be super helpful to have a 2nd person under the car pushing up. Got a buddy or accomodating wife?
As for disengaging the clutch, do it like you normally do - push the pedal to the floor.
By the way, I sent you an email related to all this. Since it was sent via CC, I don't know your email address. If you'll let me know what it is, I can send you some photos that show what to look for when you pull the tranny inspection plate. I found these photos to be invaluable. You can email me at dud50@yahoo.com.
Jerry

ttmb · #17 (**permalink**) 04-29-2006, 10:28 AM

Hi Kurt,

Jerry's right - it sticks back as soon as you let go. I'm not sure I could have done it alone. But, once you get a corner (lower front, either side), don't let it down. Keep steady pressure, and once it breaks free, it'll keep coming, easier and easier as it begins to release. You can seal it up again by cleaning off all the black goo (I don't know what it is, but I have an extra pile of it if you want some more!), using brake cleaner. That dissolves it pretty quickly. I sealed mine back up with closed cell foam (weatherstripping like they use to seal pickup toppers) which squeezes down to nothing in the really tight areas. Just ran it around the car side of the tunnel opening and put the tunnel over it. You might want help to put it back on too, but it can be done alone. And if you want to keep your hands a little cleaner, nitrile gloves are good to use. I must have gone through 5 or 6 cans of brake cleaner installing my drivetrain.

One more thing - I left the goo around the plate that holds the brake. I thought it would seal that part better than the weatherstripping.

Tom

Iceberg · #18 (**permalink**) 04-29-2006, 12:38 PM

I found the 11th screw. I finaly broke the black stuff free and have both inspection plates off. I will post photo's shortly as I am not sure what I am looking for and I don't wnt to start prying around with a screwdriver.

Thank everyone for the help.

Kurt

Iceberg · #19 (**permalink**) 04-29-2006, 01:18 PM

Cwizard How did you unstick it with a screwdrive. Here are some photos of mine and I am not sure what to do now.

Thanks,

Kurt

[/IMG]

CWizard · #20 (**permalink**) 04-29-2006, 05:05 PM

I sent Kurt some detailed instructions including several photos, but the bottom line is this: Just like mine, his tranny is stuck in 2nd gear. To fix, push in the clutch pedal and move the right-most lug in his photo above to line up exactly with the left lug. That is the neutral position.
Good luck to anyone with a similar problem.