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Old 03-05-2009, 07:23 PM
priobe's Avatar
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Cobra Make, Engine: E-M Cobra Ford FE 427 w/ Webers 48 IDA
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mfarrell

Are jetting is almost identical.

Where are you located?
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Old 03-05-2009, 11:27 PM
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These are pictures of the phenolic spacer under the carbs, which definitely help in preventing them getting hot while driving. I have also made myself phenolic spacers for under the screwhead to prevent heat from beeing transmitted through there . The screws are stainless steel, which transmit heat mores slowly. This is a partial solution to the problem.
I also made myself a heatshiel, which is aluminum plate with heatshield material stuck on the outer surface. The heatshield does also wrap at the bottom below the fuel bowl. This heatshield has been of no help whatsoever.
My jetting is 40mm chokes, 145 mains,F14, 100 air corrector, 65 idle with 100 idel holder, 00 bypass for pump.
When I come back from a ride the carbs are cool to the touch. They get a lot of cooling from the air comming into the scoop.
Once the car stands still all the heat from the engine goes up the engine bay and slowly goes out through the scoop, but not fast enough, which makes the Webers pick up all that heat and get really hot depending on the outside temperature.
I tried the smallest bypass 0.35 for the pump circuit but still got the nasty dripping. I will put them back in because I made so many changes that I do not remember if I had the phenolic spacers on when I tried using the 0.35 bypass.
My plugs are light tan and the car runs great. Of course forget about 14.7 A/F ratio. If I get anywhere close to that I notice less power and the plugs get too light a color. So this engine need more fuel to run well.
The best thing is to read the plugs.
Run the car at around 4000 rpm for 10 minutes, then without letting bthe rps drop simultaneously turn off the ignition and press the clutch to release the gear to permit the engine to stop rotating. Now stop the car and take out the plugs. That color will tell you where you are.
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Old 03-06-2009, 06:29 AM
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Eljaro,

Have you tried running different fuel to see if you still experience the dripping?

I moved away from the 00 bypass and that solved 90 % of my problem. This corrected my problem so much that I can not see the fuel drip on the plates.

However, what I am able to notice now is that the fuel will slowly / slightly drip from the progression hole. The fuel is so little that it will evaporate before it has time to stop and accumilate any volume.

I had to change my jetting around to compensate for the 55 bypass. Here are the specs.

40 choke
120 holder
65 idle jet
210 aircorrector
F2 emulsion
150 main
55 bypass
mixture screw at 7/8 turn.

Plugs tan in color

I am interested in running AV gas to see if the article is correct / my theory. There is is just too much junk in the fuel today to have good fuel.

I have noticed tha the mixture should be about 13.5 /13.8 minimum and at cruise with no demand from the motor I could go 14.5. But as soon as I hit the gass to demand power it will drop to 12.7 then level off back to 13.5.

This seems to work for me.

I will try with no change the 42 mm then move on to no choke.

By the way, what brand fuel fitting are you using? the banjo fittings are the individual run or did you find a banjo with a in then out to the next carb. What would be that part number.

Last edited by priobe; 03-06-2009 at 06:31 AM..
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Old 03-06-2009, 03:29 PM
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Earls has a double sided banjo #807992 and a single sided #807692 one.
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Old 03-15-2009, 03:27 PM
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Eureka!

I did a couple of things, after I got the new setup to idle and run without popping. Lowered the fuel level in the bowls like Rick and Phil suggested. I used Phil's method of measuring the tang dimensions (.220). Secondly, I installed the F11 Etubes and stayed with the 135 mains, 65 idles. Idle mixture screws exactly 1 and 1/2 turns. Virtually no idle speed screw. Idle at 750-800. Lastly, a bottle of Lucas Octane Booster in the tank (20 gal +/-).

Almost no dripping or percolating at shutdown. Before it would happen about 3 to 4 minutes after shutdown, and spill a lot out of the squirters and bubble for about 8-10 minutes. Now, just a tiny bit dribbles, but not enough to be concerned about, and it doesn't leak out of the gaskets onto the intake like it did earlier. Thanks Brent for the article about winter, fall, spring and summer gas mixes. I think this combo, synthesized from all you guys, did it. I'm thrilled!!
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