B2 Motorsports - Gary Bowman 445 SBF Build

[blykins]

Originally Posted by lippy

Brent, why did you decide to go with a dry sump?

Well, a couple of reasons...

1. Hood clearance. The dry sump pans are generally around 3-4" tall, compared to 7-9" for a wet pan. This allows you to sit the engine down in the car further and allows for more intake manifold.

2. Performance. This engine will probably get beat on pretty hard, and with the cornering capabilities of Gary's new car, it is an insurance point.

3. Horsepower. With a dry sump pump, the scavenging part of the pump will pull a little vacuum on the crankcase. This allows me to use a piston ring pack geared more towards making power. There is also less windage because the oil is not stored in the pan.

4. Cookie-cutter-ness. This engine is very close to a race engine. Solid roller, belt drive, stud girdle, fully ported heads/intake (the heads flow over 350 cfm at max valve lift), etc. The dry sump adds to the overall "theme" of the engine.

[lippy]

Originally Posted by blykins

Well, a couple of reasons...

1. Hood clearance. The dry sump pans are generally around 3-4" tall, compared to 7-9" for a wet pan. This allows you to sit the engine down in the car further and allows for more intake manifold.

2. Performance. This engine will probably get beat on pretty hard, and with the cornering capabilities of Gary's new car, it is an insurance point.

3. Horsepower. With a dry sump pump, the scavenging part of the pump will pull a little vacuum on the crankcase. This allows me to use a piston ring pack geared more towards making power. There is also less windage because the oil is not stored in the pan.

4. Cookie-cutter-ness. This engine is very close to a race engine. Solid roller, belt drive, stud girdle, fully ported heads/intake (the heads flow over 350 cfm at max valve lift), etc. The dry sump adds to the overall "theme" of the engine.

Thanks Brent. Ballpark, what are the HP/torque gains and cost associated with an upgrade to dry sump?

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by lippy

Ballpark, what are the HP/torque gains and cost associated with an upgrade to dry sump?

I investigated a few years ago and would do it if I had to do it all over again. ALL the parts, high quality only, run about $3,000-$4,000 plus labor to install properly, which could double the cost at least around the SF Bay Area.

Of course, the hole to be made on the passenger side fender does cause me some concern, not only cutting a virgin aluminum body , but also the finished appearance too.

[blykins]

Lots of guys mount the oil tank in the trunk, so there is really no other intrusion as far as body modification. Lots of $$$ spent on lines and fittings though.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by blykins

Lots of guys mount the oil tank in the trunk, so there is really no other intrusion as far as body modification. Lots of $$$ spent on lines and fittings though.

Of course, the original comp cars had them mounted on the front passenger fender. And the oil should heat up faster in the engine compartment with shorter line runs. Just another dream for me.

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

Of course, the hole to be made on the passenger side fender does cause me some concern, not only cutting a virgin aluminum body , but also the finished appearance too.

No worries; NO ONE will see yours...
-and the oil will heat up nicely with the tank sitting right over the headers.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

No worries; NO ONE will see yours...

What do you mean? Admission of $10 is collected at the garage door. A box of popcorn included. Just go to LiveNation or Fandango for advanced ticket sales. Just search under the event name "My Cobra is Better and Shinier Than Yours!"

[fordracing65]

I love that the ZO6 comes dry sumped from chevy...

[GBowman]

Thats what the fish tank heater thing is for...its like having an old school diesel that you plug in. Oil will be warm upon start up...