Now,with all that said and done, I have a very similar motor in my street car, another 65 Mustang. Both engines have the same identical rotating assy,(forged crank/rods/flat top pistons), both have aluminum heads and intake,the race car uses a single plane intake and solid roller camshaft, the street car uses a dual plane intake and hydraulic roller camshaft. The street engine makes about 400 hp as opposed to 500hp for the race engine... The normal operating rpm range on the street car in normal driving is from 1500 to 2500 rpms....
Both engines have the exact same Canton 8 quart road race oil pan, the street car has no engine oil cooler.Normal city/highway driving, my water temp stays on 180 and my oil temp (sender is in the pan) stays on 180 also.....Once fully warmed up, if I do any "spirited" driving (shifting at 6000rpms and such) the oil temp will slowly climb to 200 to 220 degrees depending on how long I drive the car hard. I can't ever remember seeing oil the oil temp above 220, which is still fine...and this is with NO oil cooler...even with the oil temp at 220, a few minutes of highway cruising brings it right back down to 180......
So, basically street driven cars do not need an oil cooler,IMHO of course...
In the last 4 or 5 years I've seen a number of the top racers going to oil to water coolers. These are almost identical to the radiators of the 70's and 80's cars where the trans. lines screwed into one of the radiator tanks and the trans. cooler was in the tank. They claim the oil comes up to operating temp a lot quicker (which is a good thing) and the oil temp stays more consistant and does not fluctuate as much...These custom built radiators generally start out at about 750 bucks and go to a 1000 bucks depending on the size and car, this I know, cause I checked into them....
I use what works for me in my application and so far,so good, been racing this car for 8 years now....
and that's the story I'm sticking to.....
David
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