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Post By Texasdoc

07-12-2014, 04:36 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Keller,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: Lonestar Classics LS427. Self-built 408W, AFR 195 heads, Performer RPM Intake, Quick Fuel 750, 407rwhp, 479rwtq
Posts: 549
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Not Ranked
Nobody knows how to wire this alternator? Hello... is this thing on...?? 
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07-12-2014, 04:44 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Redondo Beach,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: 331 SB, AFR heads
Posts: 75
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Not Ranked
Texasdoc,
I think that you are doing fine by yourself and do not need a lot of inputs from the peanut gallery. What you have posted is more information than I have, so I am learning from your experience.
John
Last edited by jhirasak; 07-12-2014 at 09:29 PM..
Reason: correct spelling
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07-12-2014, 06:07 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Redondo Beach,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: 331 SB, AFR heads
Posts: 75
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Not Ranked
Texasdoc,
The 2G diagram that you have provided is the one that you need to wire your car.
The proper connectors for a 2G alternator are 7502E and 7502F. The 7502E should connect to Connector 2 on the alternator and the 7502F should connect to Connector 1 on the alternator. The connectors should be keyed so they will only connect in the proper orientation.
I would recommend that you use two fuse links as indicated since the wires are individually sized to only carry approximately half of 130 amps.
I would recommend that you install an indicator lamp as indicated on the circuit diagram with the proper resistance. You can wire it without a lamp but you may not know if you have a failure in the alternator if it should happen.
The grey wires on each connector should be coupled together. Since the alternators are built to either support an internal regulator or an external regulator, the choice of connection to the stator input is through the connector wiring.
See, I told you that you already had all of the necessary information on hand.
Let me know if you have any questions.
John
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07-12-2014, 08:04 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Keller,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: Lonestar Classics LS427. Self-built 408W, AFR 195 heads, Performer RPM Intake, Quick Fuel 750, 407rwhp, 479rwtq
Posts: 549
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhirasak
Texasdoc,
I think that you are doing fine by yourself and do not need a lot of inputs from the peanut gallery. What you have posted is more information that I have, so I am learning from your experience.
John
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I like peanuts!
Question about the indicator light - what light do I use? Any standard 12v bulb? I think the 510ohm resistor is so that the circuit will still get activated if the bulb burns out. If the bulb burns out and there is no accessory pathway, the I circuit never gets power.
So, any 12v dash light?
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07-12-2014, 09:27 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Redondo Beach,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: 331 SB, AFR heads
Posts: 75
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Not Ranked
The resistor is there to balance the load across the alternator indicator lamp. To find out the required wattage for the bulb, just go to an auto parts store and ask for a bulb that fits the Mustang that has a 2G alternator in it.
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07-15-2014, 08:27 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Redondo Beach,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: 331 SB, AFR heads
Posts: 75
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Not Ranked
Texasdoc,
By the way, there is another cable that I would recommend that you install that is not indicated on the 2G circuit diagram. You will notice that one side of the diodes are indicated as going to ground inside the alternator. Normally, the mechanical attachment of the alternator case to the engine block is sufficient to complete the circuit to the battery. However, I would connect a ground strap from the ground terminal on the alternator to the engine block ground attachment point as a means to insure that your installation is electrically complete. I realize that this is a bit of a belts and suspenders approach but I would be more comfortable if you did so.
Regards,
John
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07-15-2014, 09:00 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Keller,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: Lonestar Classics LS427. Self-built 408W, AFR 195 heads, Performer RPM Intake, Quick Fuel 750, 407rwhp, 479rwtq
Posts: 549
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Not Ranked
Yes, thanks jhirasak. I have a 8g wire going from the alternator case to the engine block to ensure a good ground. My alternator has a connector/post for just this reason.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhirasak
The resistor is there to balance the load across the alternator indicator lamp. To find out the required wattage for the bulb, just go to an auto parts store and ask for a bulb that fits the Mustang that has a 2G alternator in it.
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If I don't want/need the indicator light, can I just wire the I terminal to switched hot and delete the indicator light portion of the diagram?
Last edited by Texasdoc; 07-15-2014 at 09:18 AM..
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07-15-2014, 11:08 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Redondo Beach,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: 331 SB, AFR heads
Posts: 75
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If you delete the light, I would recommend that you either install an ampmeter or a voltmeter in your charging circuit to provide you with information regarding the status of your battery as well as the performance of your alternator. If you already have one of those on your car, I would consider it appropriate to delete the indicator light.
John
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07-16-2014, 02:56 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Cobra Make, Engine: Lone Star with IRS, 427W with megasquirt, T56 magnum
Posts: 309
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If you don't use the light, install it under the dash. When the engine isn't running, the alternator grounds it's side of the light. If you wired it direct to hot, you'll burn something up. If the light REALLY offends you, use a 50 ohm resistor.
The yellow wire can be wired directly to the output terminal but only if you run 6ga wire all the way to the battery. That wire senses the actual charge voltage. If your wire and fusable link is a little long or light, there will be a voltage drop. This sense wire allows the alternator to put out a little more voltage to compensate for the voltage drop fromt he alternator to the battery.
What I did to clean things up was run my output wire directly to the starter. If you're running the old school starter with the solenoid on the fenderwell instead of the solenoid integral to the starter, you'll can't do that. If you have a modern gear reduction starter with the battery going directly to it, it's a perfect place to put the juice to.
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