Brett,
You are making a mountain out of a molehill on your motor.
I am sure that the experts will say that I am absolutely full of it and things would be best if my advice was quietly but firmly ignored in order not to encourage similar behaviour from others.
But that said......
1. NEVER EVER (Got that?) put WD-40 on new bores in an assembled engine. It is a very good solvent and it will wash the assembly lube right out of the cross-hatching in the bores. You need that lube on the bores. Note: It is very good at water displacement and low pressure temporary lubrication of lightly loaded assemblies.
2. If the engine was started prior to coming to you (or wherever) there will be lube in the bores and on everything else. All that is needed is for you to remove the valve covers and squirt some
oil on the rockers at the valves, reinstall rocker covers, put in the break-in
oil, then remove the plugs and spin the engine on the starter until you show good pressure for 30 seconds or so. You will note that there is no load on anything without the plugs in. (I know there is some rubbing action going on but it will not be sufficient to brings things to a "happy ending" as we say in the trades.)
3. Put the plugs in and start the bloody thing. Bring it to temperature at a fast idle, all the while checking for leaks etc. If all is good, button it up and then proceed to drive it like you stole it....
Note:If you really wish to be anal, then remove the distributor and turn the
oil pump with a drill to build pressure as this will make you feel better. The motor will not care as the surfaces are not moving so there will not be any coating of things such as rod bearings, main bearings, cam bearings, and rocker arm bearings or rocker roller to valve stem contact areas, piston rings or bores, etc. etc. etc.
But the oil pump gears will certainly get lubed and then upon reassembly, odds are that your distributor will be mis-aligned by at least a cylinder. This will give you many hours of entertainment trying to figure out why the combustion process is occurring on the outside of your engine just above the carburetor inlet while simultaneously shooting flames out of the sidepipes and lighting the cats hair . Once that combustion phenomenon is sorted out and you finally get to fire it up, you will start to wonder why your exhaust headers are glowing red and the damn timing light is blinking on a mostly blank section of your dynamic balancer.
I could go on....but my nurse is here with my special elixir.
ps: Springs fail from use, not from being held in a position. (Unless you are exceeding the elastic limits at that hold point of course.
)
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