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Old 09-29-2011, 05:28 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2001
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Cobra Make, Engine: 396 long block, PROBE Forged Dished pistons 8.75 to 1 and Vic Jr. heads from Engine Factory. Tremec TKO. BDR#244 Sterling Gray/Silver stripes. 17in polished wheels, glove box and tonneau cover.
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Jimbo!!! Sorry hear about the slave issue again.

My cobra was working GREAT with it's new hydraulic throwout bearing. Then it desided to relieve itself of fluid. Getting it fixed again. But it did work for an entire year without any issues. Didn't drive it much though so not sure how many miles.
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Old 09-29-2011, 12:32 PM
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Location: West Suburbs of Chicago, IL
Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft#357, 392CI Ford Racing, 459hp, 455ft/lbs , TKO 500, 3.43 Gears, Ceramic Coated Headers, Victor Jr. 750cfm, 17in Halibrand wheels, Sterling Gray/Silver Stripes, Gray Leather, Nitto NT05
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[quote=got snake?;1153898]Jimbo!!! Sorry hear about the slave issue again QUOTE]

Sid - that post is from 2009, My car has been fine for the last 2 years (if you don't count the other things I have fixed like a leaky differential, transmission upgrade from bent shift rods, cracked side pipe that had to be welded, seized knock off, loose half shaft bolts, loose tach, front end alignment, blown fuses, broken trunk latch, loose valve covers, new tires front and rear, broken front wing window, loose spring on the LeMans gas cap, broken baffle in side pipe etc...) typical maintenance stuff, particularly when you race the car. Better said, my slave cylinder has been fine for two years!
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Old 09-29-2011, 01:15 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: SPF 2932 with 438 Lykins Motorsports engine. Previous owner of FFR 5452.
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I too have been having a battle with my clutch.

After many man hours and $$$$ spent chasing the problem, it finally boiled down (literally) to a heat problem and the push rod from the slave not pushing in a straight line. Once the push rod was straightened (a new slave mounting bracket was fabricated) then I had to deal with the heat problem. The car shifted beautifully when cold, or while moving. When stuck in traffic in the summer temps, it would become impossible to find reverse without grinding and puting into first at a stop became very difficult.
I had to fab some heat shields for the clutch lines and switched to wilwood high temp brake fluid. I also found that bleeding the system every 6 months helped eliminate the problem.

So, my recommendations are:
1. Make sure push/pull rod on slave cylinder is moving in a straight line.
2. Use heat shields as much as possible to shield the lines from engine heat.
3. Use wilwood high temp fluid (boiling point around 570 degrees whereas normal fluid is in the 300's).
4. Bleed the system twice a year.

Took me two years of trial and error and $$$$ to fix mine. Hope this works for you.
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