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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2013, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by blown871 View Post
was that car just on e-bay?
I was ....following it...if it was.

and agree; the thrill of the hunt!!
It is an obsession for sure.
Yes indeed .. it was listed . . came down w/no bids. Very nice gentleman. Flew out on Saturday, car was on the transport Sunday and was in Lake Stevens, WA on Tuesday at 7 AM. Stars just lined up. Very happy (so far) with the purchase.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 02-01-2013, 07:38 AM
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Very very nice car!! De tune it and drive the wheels off it!!!
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:24 PM
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Very very nice car!! De tune it and drive the wheels off it!!!
Thank you. Drove it this week to WA State Patrol to get it registered / titled as a 1965 . . they off to the local dyno / tuner. It was raining. . . not for the faint of heart . . . wowza.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2013, 05:22 PM
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Default Re 460/521

Hi Dave in UK, nice looking ride, I have a Dax with a 545 stroked 460, running a solid roller Comp xr292, similar spec to yours but with less lift, a Victor/1050 dominator, and just changed from a Broader C6 to a TKO 600, I have ported TFS heads and its a wicked drive! give the current setup a chance before you start spending more bucks, rolling road showed 730 Tq, love those BBF's. Dave
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2013, 09:23 AM
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Kkosche,

Congratulations on a great purchase! That engine package will lay down some serious numbers when it’s tuned. Put a set of Drag radials on it quick!! It will be a scary bastard on those tires ( Goodyear Eagle GTII’s? yikes!!) Yea that cam with a big single plane and a Dominator = less than perfect drivability! Lol
But EFI is a great tamer of big cammed street cars, making it is easy to compensate for the weak vacuum signal . $10k should get it done, so long as you don’t get retail gouged.
I like the Kinsler SCJ manifold but they are pricey at around $6500(last I checked)

and the TWM set up. I just picked up this complete TWM set up with an older Electro-Motive computer for $2K!
I’m fairly sure I’m going to use the new Holley Dominator EFI controller. Holley Performance Dominator EFI – ECU Products
I have a friend that does it for a living and he has nothing but good things to say about it. Very easy user interface, self tuning options, even a hand held tuner if you don’t want to use a laptop

Jason
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Old 04-14-2013, 01:09 PM
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This is wet dream stuff.Seriously considered the Webers for our car but too many complained of dailing them in and keeping them there.Now this EFI stuff has the looks for sure,but what about filtering the air anything that looks good?
Just had a 1000cfm dbl pmp custom built need to tweak it before thinking about anything else.
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:57 PM
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I run a Torker II on my 521 and like it. You can run a 14" air cleaner as mentioned if you use a 1" drop base.

Regarding solid roller cams, I had several failures even after diligently checking the the valves every 250-500 miles. The rollers kept breaking off every 1,000-2,000 miles.

I finally switched to a hyd. flat setup and it's got for like 15,000 miles no prob. There are some pretty big hyd. cams out there if you want one...
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Old 04-19-2013, 08:28 AM
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Cdog gets his kicks on Route 66!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 11-30-2013, 06:35 AM
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Since this article started have done a lot of leg work on the roller tappet issue of failure.Have found that it is isolated most people do not have issues other than an occasional part failure. With that decided to eliminate as much chance of failure as possible that being the needle bearing rollers. The SB2 motor recently finished went with Isky EZ-Roll lifters.This engine will run 680lb open lift.
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Old 12-05-2013, 02:00 PM
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mdross1,

Can't help wondering about solid rollers, bushed or needled. From what I can glean on the 'net (yeah, I know how reliable that can be) it seems idling is the solid roller killer, especially if the lift profile is aggressive from the start.

There are cams that have "softer" initial ramps, and cams that use tighter clearances that may help. Spending some phone money talking directly to Isky might save you some pain...

Most of the solid rollers I'm aware of are maintenance items; you run them 3000-5000 miles and then have them rebuilt. If you have low total miles to run the car it would seem more like a practical choice.

My hydraulic BBF rollers have gone 30K+ miles without the valve covers off. I do agree mine probably sounds tamer than a solid roller would

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Old 12-06-2013, 07:11 PM
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I have a 505 motor with P51 heads that made 830 hp i check valves after 10 -15 quarter mile passes, you would not need to check that often, but i would say around 3500 miles. Kaase makes the best big block head there is and they are very reliable
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Old 12-08-2013, 06:57 AM
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Talked with the Comp cam people about longevity, the cam we have for our SB2 has a .440 lobe which is supposed to be easier on parts. Our car does not get used much now that retired hope to use it a lot more.
Really would like to hear those lifters like only solids make,somehow it speaks volumes as to what might be lurking under the hood. Have a winter to think about it.
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Old 12-08-2013, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Wells View Post
mdross1,

Can't help wondering about solid rollers, bushed or needled. From what I can glean on the 'net (yeah, I know how reliable that can be) it seems idling is the solid roller killer, especially if the lift profile is aggressive from the start.

There are cams that have "softer" initial ramps, and cams that use tighter clearances that may help. Spending some phone money talking directly to Isky might save you some pain...

Most of the solid rollers I'm aware of are maintenance items; you run them 3000-5000 miles and then have them rebuilt. If you have low total miles to run the car it would seem more like a practical choice.

My hydraulic BBF rollers have gone 30K+ miles without the valve covers off. I do agree mine probably sounds tamer than a solid roller would

Tom
For any solid roller engine that will see a LOT of street time, I use a bushed lifter and that's about it. I use the Isky EZ Roll bushed lifters. They should go 25-30k miles before needing a rebuild. The lifters that are not pressure fed are the ones that will generally need replacement in the 3000-4000 mile interval.

As for cams, there are indeed lobes that are easier on the valvetrain than others. A larger major intensity (difference between advertised duration and .050" duration) is generally easier on the parts, and it also helps if you keep lift down. A tight lash cam is also easier.

All of my personal toys have solid rollers in them, but I enjoy hitting higher revs.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2013, 09:42 AM
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Default Need Verses Want

With 500+ cid, you do not need to go to extreme exotic parts to make power. Getting 600+ lb-ft of torque is not hard. Getting it to breath to 5500 rpm or so is going to make as much Hp as you can hook to the ground in a 2500 lb car.

There is no need to spin this behemoth above 6K. Attempting to do so is where the cost starts escalating rather steeply.

You do not need solid roller lifters. You may want them, but you need to understand the difference between a need and a want.

It like seeing a good looking ***** and wanting her. After you have her, you wish you had never seen her.
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Old 12-08-2013, 10:18 AM
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Nothing wrong with wanting a little more power and a little more rpms. If this were a daily driver, I would have a different opinion, but in all honesty, no one needs more than 250 hp in these cars.

The good news is that:

1. Cobras have gas pedals. You don't have to have them wide open all the time.

2. A larger cam and more rpms usually bleeds the low end power and torque down, which helps the traction issue with a Cobra.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2013, 04:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins View Post
Nothing wrong with wanting a little more power and a little more rpms. If this were a daily driver, I would have a different opinion, but in all honesty, no one needs more than 250 hp in these cars.

The good news is that:

1. Cobras have gas pedals. You don't have to have them wide open all the time.

2. A larger cam and more rpms usually bleeds the low end power and torque down, which helps the traction issue with a Cobra.
This is my take on the subject as well.

Been running solid roller cams for many years in our Harleys. Always ran the lash much tighter than recommended. Plan to do the same thing with the 385.

Actually once the cams and lifters are happy with each other they require very little adjusting. Should add that it has always worked that way for me. I'm one of those who enjoy checking things all the time and look forward to pulling the valve covers when the feel the need strikes.

Having these hot rods and comparing notes with like minded enthusiasts has always been one of my favorite past times. You never know what little tricks of the trade you might walk away with.
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