Stroked 460 Questions

[mdross1]

Once I decided to go the 385 route knew it would be at least the 460,thought long and hard about stroking it.Course talked to a lot of Cobra owners most stated that big torque is great only real time it gets to be a concern is in the twisties.So stayed with 460 and have found it's traction limit in the twisties,and quite happy with the straight line performance.Thinking about sticking a roller cam in this motor love having the options we have today.

[Tom Wells]

kkosche,

I have Torker IIs on both my 385s, the 521 & the 557. They work great! And they give more hood clearance, allowing a large enough air cleaner for some serious airflow. Most taller manifolds force a pretty small filter size, restricting HP quite a bit unless the scoop is made taller...

The new Torker II has a variant that has fuel injector bungs already it it if you're interested in doing port injection. When I did mine ten years ago we had to weld in the bungs which is a bit of a chore. The new manifold is here: Edelbrock 50665 Edelbrock Victor Series EFI Intake Manifolds

Note the height of the carb pad is 3-7/8" which I think is the same as the Torker II. Don't let the Victor name throw you - I think it's the same manifold.

You might also be interested in this thread: 6th update, P-51 heads/ TorkerII intake - 460 Ford Forum

My experience on the dyno is that there's 400-500 ft-lbs at the back tires, through the C-6 automatic and Jag rear, from 2000 rpm up. Nice!

Tom

[kkosche]

Originally Posted by Tom Wells

kkosche,

I have Torker IIs on both my 385s, the 521 & the 557. They work great! And they give more hood clearance, allowing a large enough air cleaner for some serious airflow. Most taller manifolds force a pretty small filter size, restricting HP quite a bit unless the scoop is made taller...

The new Torker II has a variant that has fuel injector bungs already it it if you're interested in doing port injection. When I did mine ten years ago we had to weld in the bungs which is a bit of a chore. The new manifold is here: Edelbrock 50665 Edelbrock Victor Series EFI Intake Manifolds

Note the height of the carb pad is 3-7/8" which I think is the same as the Torker II. Don't let the Victor name throw you - I think it's the same manifold.

You might also be interested in this thread: 6th update, P-51 heads/ TorkerII intake - 460 Ford Forum

My experience on the dyno is that there's 400-500 ft-lbs at the back tires, through the C-6 automatic and Jag rear, from 2000 rpm up. Nice!

Tom

Thank you Tom. I will check those threads out.

[kkosche]

Pulled bowls off the carb (80496-1) which according to my Holley book, is a 950 CFM double pumper. Jets were 65 Primary / 76 Secondary. Bumped both of them up two sizes. 67/78. Looks like the primaries were reduced significantly from the base setting of 78 on the primaries (again according to my Holley manual). Should now be fat enough to make it safely to the tuner (about 10 miles away).

[blown871]

Very very nice car!! De tune it and drive the wheels off it!!!

[kkosche]

Originally Posted by blown871

Very very nice car!! De tune it and drive the wheels off it!!!

Thank you. Drove it this week to WA State Patrol to get it registered / titled as a 1965 . . they off to the local dyno / tuner. It was raining. . . not for the faint of heart . . . wowza.

[cdog]

I run a Torker II on my 521 and like it. You can run a 14" air cleaner as mentioned if you use a 1" drop base.

Regarding solid roller cams, I had several failures even after diligently checking the the valves every 250-500 miles. The rollers kept breaking off every 1,000-2,000 miles.

I finally switched to a hyd. flat setup and it's got for like 15,000 miles no prob. There are some pretty big hyd. cams out there if you want one...

[Jerry Clayton]

Cdog gets his kicks on Route 66!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[mdross1]

Since this article started have done a lot of leg work on the roller tappet issue of failure.Have found that it is isolated most people do not have issues other than an occasional part failure. With that decided to eliminate as much chance of failure as possible that being the needle bearing rollers. The SB2 motor recently finished went with Isky EZ-Roll lifters.This engine will run 680lb open lift.

[Tom Wells]

mdross1,

Can't help wondering about solid rollers, bushed or needled. From what I can glean on the 'net (yeah, I know how reliable that can be) it seems idling is the solid roller killer, especially if the lift profile is aggressive from the start.

There are cams that have "softer" initial ramps, and cams that use tighter clearances that may help. Spending some phone money talking directly to Isky might save you some pain...

Most of the solid rollers I'm aware of are maintenance items; you run them 3000-5000 miles and then have them rebuilt. If you have low total miles to run the car it would seem more like a practical choice.

My hydraulic BBF rollers have gone 30K+ miles without the valve covers off. I do agree mine probably sounds tamer than a solid roller would

Tom

[blykins]

Originally Posted by Tom Wells

mdross1,

Can't help wondering about solid rollers, bushed or needled. From what I can glean on the 'net (yeah, I know how reliable that can be) it seems idling is the solid roller killer, especially if the lift profile is aggressive from the start.

There are cams that have "softer" initial ramps, and cams that use tighter clearances that may help. Spending some phone money talking directly to Isky might save you some pain...

Most of the solid rollers I'm aware of are maintenance items; you run them 3000-5000 miles and then have them rebuilt. If you have low total miles to run the car it would seem more like a practical choice.

My hydraulic BBF rollers have gone 30K+ miles without the valve covers off. I do agree mine probably sounds tamer than a solid roller would

Tom

For any solid roller engine that will see a LOT of street time, I use a bushed lifter and that's about it. I use the Isky EZ Roll bushed lifters. They should go 25-30k miles before needing a rebuild. The lifters that are not pressure fed are the ones that will generally need replacement in the 3000-4000 mile interval.

As for cams, there are indeed lobes that are easier on the valvetrain than others. A larger major intensity (difference between advertised duration and .050" duration) is generally easier on the parts, and it also helps if you keep lift down. A tight lash cam is also easier.

All of my personal toys have solid rollers in them, but I enjoy hitting higher revs.

[olddog]

With 500+ cid, you do not need to go to extreme exotic parts to make power. Getting 600+ lb-ft of torque is not hard. Getting it to breath to 5500 rpm or so is going to make as much Hp as you can hook to the ground in a 2500 lb car.

There is no need to spin this behemoth above 6K. Attempting to do so is where the cost starts escalating rather steeply.

You do not need solid roller lifters. You may want them, but you need to understand the difference between a need and a want.

It like seeing a good looking ***** and wanting her. After you have her, you wish you had never seen her.

[blykins]

Nothing wrong with wanting a little more power and a little more rpms. If this were a daily driver, I would have a different opinion, but in all honesty, no one needs more than 250 hp in these cars.

The good news is that:

1. Cobras have gas pedals. You don't have to have them wide open all the time.

2. A larger cam and more rpms usually bleeds the low end power and torque down, which helps the traction issue with a Cobra.

[mdross1]

Originally Posted by blykins

Nothing wrong with wanting a little more power and a little more rpms. If this were a daily driver, I would have a different opinion, but in all honesty, no one needs more than 250 hp in these cars.

The good news is that:

1. Cobras have gas pedals. You don't have to have them wide open all the time.

2. A larger cam and more rpms usually bleeds the low end power and torque down, which helps the traction issue with a Cobra.

This is my take on the subject as well.

Been running solid roller cams for many years in our Harleys. Always ran the lash much tighter than recommended. Plan to do the same thing with the 385.

Actually once the cams and lifters are happy with each other they require very little adjusting. Should add that it has always worked that way for me. I'm one of those who enjoy checking things all the time and look forward to pulling the valve covers when the feel the need strikes.

Having these hot rods and comparing notes with like minded enthusiasts has always been one of my favorite past times. You never know what little tricks of the trade you might walk away with.

[505stang]

I have a 505 motor with P51 heads that made 830 hp i check valves after 10 -15 quarter mile passes, you would not need to check that often, but i would say around 3500 miles. Kaase makes the best big block head there is and they are very reliable

[mdross1]

Talked with the Comp cam people about longevity, the cam we have for our SB2 has a .440 lobe which is supposed to be easier on parts. Our car does not get used much now that retired hope to use it a lot more.
Really would like to hear those lifters like only solids make,somehow it speaks volumes as to what might be lurking under the hood. Have a winter to think about it.