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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2016, 05:13 AM
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I have seen a couple of FE lifters break a piece off when the push rod was not seated before rotating the crankshaft.

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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2016, 05:45 AM
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I think the shard is definitely top end; i'd start there before pulling the motor. The gasket leak--just offhand, were the heads milled to boost compression? If so, the intake should be matched.
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Old 05-31-2016, 06:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 427sharpe View Post
I think the shard is definitely top end; i'd start there before pulling the motor. The gasket leak--just offhand, were the heads milled to boost compression? If so, the intake should be matched.
Sadly my knowledge of the engine is very limited to nothing more than it was an SVO short block ordered From Summit Racing in 1994. And the car only has 5100 miles per the odometer. The engine runs strong.
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Old 05-31-2016, 03:50 PM
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Well, if you pull the intake again use an angle finder to measure the intake mounting location and the intake itself--they should match. Sometimes you can dry mount the intake and just look; the intake will be sitting too high vs. the heads if the heads have been milled. I sure hope everything turns out OK--a bummer this happened to you!
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Old 05-31-2016, 09:41 PM
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If you find that your intake manifold is not "square" a decent machine shop should be able to true the mating surfaces for you. No need to charge out and buy another. My 2¢.
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Old 06-01-2016, 02:58 AM
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+1 to Karl...

If I had to buy another intake everytime the flanges were out of square, I'd be out of business.
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Old 06-01-2016, 05:26 AM
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Went by the performance shop near my house, the part broke off of the valve seal clip. He said it needs changed but not a major issue. So I will call on thursday to make an appointment to get my car in. He only has one rack (the mostly build engines). Car on the rack (I should have taken a picture) was a late 60's GT500 RK. He also has an original 60's Cobra under a tarp. I will try to take pic's when I go back.
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Old 06-01-2016, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carmine View Post
That looks like metal clip from valve seal
Winner! Winner!
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2016, 06:33 AM
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Hey Joey.
Why`ll your at it you might want to change all the valve seals to Viton valve seals.
Nothing but problems with those cheap made in china teflon valve seals that have found there way into the market.
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Old 06-01-2016, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carmine View Post
Hey Joey.
Why`ll your at it you might want to change all the valve seals to Viton valve seals.
Nothing but problems with those cheap made in china teflon valve seals that have found there way into the market.
I used teflon years ago, but all of mine get Viton now.
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2016, 04:31 PM
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I will discuss with the engine guy and see what he thinks about cost. The only reason I say that is I have so much I need to get done to this car to make it and myself happy I need to watch spending at least till next month Kind of blew this month budget on airfare to mexico for 4.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2016, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joey4420 View Post
Went by the performance shop near my house, the part broke off of the valve seal clip. He said it needs changed but not a major issue. So I will call on thursday to make an appointment to get my car in. He only has one rack (the mostly build engines). Car on the rack (I should have taken a picture) was a late 60's GT500 RK. He also has an original 60's Cobra under a tarp. I will try to take pic's when I go back.
Hi, I am not sure if your performance guy is right, this might sound arrogant but that part IMHO is definitely to thick and the wrong radius to be off your valve stem seal, plus there is no reason for it to break even if it is Chinese made.. whereas the damper spring is subjected to fatigue and will break if not installed correctly. Either way, your mechanic will need to pull the springs off to replace the broken part, but I suggest you get him to look very carefully at the damper springs, as a broken damper spring may indicate worse to follow i.e. fatigue in your valve train.. I have been building engines with my old man since I was nine and I have seen plenty of damper springs and valve stem seals so the blackened finish indicates heat treatment and thickness of that part is in my opinion too thick to be a valve stem seal retainer clip. It will pay to make sure.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2016, 10:28 PM
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Yes, you are correct Wil.

I thought we all agreed this is a piece of damper spring, too thick and too large to be a part of a valve stem seal clip.

Personally, I've never run a damper spring setup, I run real springs, nearly always double, or beehive.

Damper springs like that are more prone to breakage.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2016, 10:49 PM
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Plus 10 on above two posts... the old horse , water, drink scenario!
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2016, 05:29 AM
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Eric, my performance guy thought the same thing till he placed the piece against the valve seal clip and it matched perfectly. Then showed me the Spring he thought it was and it wasn't even in the same ball park.
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Old 06-02-2016, 01:08 PM
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If it is a valve seal clip, it will be relatively easy and cheap to replace all 16 (or just the one if you really want to save money.)

If you have the right tool, you could even do it yourself. Check out you tube videos and you'll see how easy it is to do.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2016, 02:32 PM
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You should go buy a lottery ticket!
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2016, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joey4420 View Post
Eric, my performance guy thought the same thing till he placed the piece against the valve seal clip and it matched perfectly. Then showed me the Spring he thought it was and it wasn't even in the same ball park.
I guess it is an illusion of a photo.

All good now?
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2016, 04:58 AM
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I have an appointment tuesday to get my car work on.
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Old 06-03-2016, 05:52 PM
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Can you post some more pics of damaged parts replaced, once the job is done?

Gary
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