Does Ford Still Produce The 515ci 625HP Crate Engine ?

[FUNFER2]

If a guy wanted 700HP, for the money, you can't beat the 514.

Only from one builder....and one example of many quality builders.

(+/-)

514 for $12,700 (700HP)

Shelby 527 for $26,000 (625 HP)

482/496 FE Shelby for $23,600 (600HP)

[FUNFER2]

Originally Posted by scootter

I would go with the 514 514 BBF Street Crate - Craft Performance Engines
I currently have a 514 in my Superformance that puts out over 600hp.
Scott

Scott,

Is the 514 the only engine you've had in your Cobra ?

What do you like and don't like about it ?

Anything you would change ?

Currious against my 428, what's you fuel milage ?

What's your specs ? (If different from your link)

Why did you select the 514 over other engines ?

Any phoho's ?

[CraftEngines]

I completely understand on the FE they are definitely but the 460 based engine is great power for the money. Just keep in mind from a traction standpoint that it will make killer torque as well as drop the rear percentage of the car, definitely no issue blowing the tires loose. The 514ci is built using a stock 460 block (4.440" Bore x 4.140" Stroke). The 572ci engine uses the Ford Motorsport A460 Block (4.500" Bore x 4.500" Stroke). We do not use a cookie cutter camshaft on our engines. Will get all the car specs, your plans for drivability, idle characteristics, etc. As you know the actual specs for the 572 will be different than the 514. We usually stay around 10:1 with the 460 engine that are planning to run pump fuel. The larger the bore size the more the engine will try to detonate. If you are looking for a ridiculous kick in the pants and do not mind really getting up on the wheel and driving, either of these engines would be killer.

Thanks
Lance Smith

[FUNFER2]

Lance, as you know, torque is what gets the car moving whether you're road or drag racing, same with our sprint cars. When we race a long track like Knoxville Iowa, high HP, is king. Spirited street also requires TQ.

Having both, is the key, but controling the power is the art.

Getting traction with our Cobra's can be an issue, but a lot of owners (even racers)
don't have a clue on how to set up the drive train, chassis, suspention, tires and even steering.

Just like you high end engine builders, every make of engines and every engine is different. You can have two exact blocks, heads etc,...but it can be amazing just how different they become, no two are exactly alike.

Every driver is also different, some prefer TQ other HP, some both. One driver likes the car loose, some tight. Weight bias front to back is also critical in most cases, even drag racing.

I would say most people don't think about how shocks and springs can effect any kind of driving, and how to set them up. Most of the time, to get a car dialed in, you must have 4-wheel scales. When I set up my Cobras suspention I eye balled everything, but when I set up the electronic scales, I was amazed just how bad my eye balling was. lol....

Being 54 years old, I grew up in the "Pro-Street" years, so Ilike the power, sound, feel and smell of those cars, but also like the "Pro-Touring" of todays muscle. My first build as a teen was a 1977 Camaro. 468 RATT with a mechanicl cam on AV gas. Muncie rock crusher, pro 9" rear with fats and a 4-link.

Anyway, I need both high TQ & HP, even if it's over kill.

You'll have to try and talk me out of a solid roller cam, even with a lot of idling on the street.
What do you think of Isky's roller lifter on the street ?

Oh, do you happen to have the TQ & HP results down real low rpm, like say, 2,000 or 2,500 ?
Or a estimated good guess ? Just curious as it's a torgue monster.

[cycleguy55]

This comparison between hydraulic and solid rollers was essentially even, especially when you consider the solid roller had more lift. Dyno Shootout: Solid Roller Vs. Hydraulic Roller - StangTV

Personally I'd go hydraulic roller for street use, more due to idling and low RPM driving than maintenance issues.

[Ace23]

Originally Posted by FUNFER2

Lance, as you know, torque is what gets the car moving whether you're road or drag racing, same with our sprint cars. When we race a long track like Knoxville Iowa, high HP, is king. Spirited street also requires TQ.

Having both, is the key, but controling the power is the art.

Getting traction with our Cobra's can be an issue, but a lot of owners (even racers)
don't have a clue on how to set up the drive train, chassis, suspention, tires and even steering.

Just like you high end engine builders, every make of engines and every engine is different. You can have two exact blocks, heads etc,...but it can be amazing just how different they become, no two are exactly alike.

Every driver is also different, some prefer TQ other HP, some both. One driver likes the car loose, some tight. Weight bias front to back is also critical in most cases, even drag racing.

I would say most people don't think about how shocks and springs can effect any kind of driving, and how to set them up. Most of the time, to get a car dialed in, you must have 4-wheel scales. When I set up my Cobras suspention I eye balled everything, but when I set up the electronic scales, I was amazed just how bad my eye balling was. lol....

Being 54 years old, I grew up in the "Pro-Street" years, so Ilike the power, sound, feel and smell of those cars, but also like the "Pro-Touring" of todays muscle. My first build as a teen was a 1977 Camaro. 468 RATT with a mechanicl cam on AV gas. Muncie rock crusher, pro 9" rear with fats and a 4-link.

Anyway, I need both high TQ & HP, even if it's over kill.

You'll have to try and talk me out of a solid roller cam, even with a lot of idling on the street.
What do you think of Isky's roller lifter on the street ?

Oh, do you happen to have the TQ & HP results down real low rpm, like say, 2,000 or 2,500 ?
Or a estimated good guess ? Just curious as it's a torgue monster.

I almost went with a 460 based big block and probably should have but I think I will be okay in the long run. I ended up keeping my 427 but having Brent from Lykins Motorsports spec me a cam and then I Lance do all the machine work and freshen my Brodix heads. I am throwing a ton of gear and T56 speed at the car so I am pretty excited to experience the results.

If you are REALLY serious about a 460 based big block then have Lance or Brent build you a motor and get on down the road. Personally I would spend the extra $2,500 or so dollars and get the A460 block and punch that sucker out to 570-600ci with a hydraulic roller. You should be able to make 750hp and enough TQ to tear your car in half on pump gas. I literally had to talk myself down from the big block. My car wasn't a complete turd before we dug into in and we thought it was down about 75-100hp and had a ton of mismatched items for what the intent of the car was. I'm not ruling out a big ci motor in the future but for now I think I will have all I can handle for a street car. Fresh 427W that should peak around 6000rpm with a 6-speed T56, 4:30 gears and 325-50-15's We have had the car down since August 2016 so I plan on having to learn to drive the car again as it should be on another level.

[CraftEngines]

Kevin,
I completely understand on the setup aspect. We have a dirt late model so we go down that road daily. We took a Kirkham to the Run and Gun several years back. We scaled the car and set it up for what we were using it for and it was killer. If you have spent time in a sprint car I know you know how to control wheel speed. We normally prefer a solid roller on our 460 engines. We have some street roller lobes that we like to use that are much easier on the lifters at low rpm's than the race lobes. With the engine dyno starting its dyno pulls at Max Volume Efficiency (Max torque) it is hard to make really low pulls. We have been able to pull them down as low as 3000 in the past. These big blocks will still make around 550-600 ft/lbs torque at 3000rpm.

[FUNFER2]

Late model, cool. I got my start in racing with a neighbor at age 13. He had what is called today, a outlaw late model. Is that what you have ?

Ah,....a Kirkham, the best on the planet !
What a time that would have been,.....you lucky sh*t. lol.....
They picked the best there is for custom engines.
What it the small or big block ?
Any pics ?

Why do you prefer a solid roller in the 460 ?

For this engine, what specs with the cam, would be the best for the street ?

Which brand of lifters and why ?

600lbs @ 3,000 rpm, is nuts !
Now that equates to.......fun !

That's part, of what makes sprint car racing so fun. 700 to 1,000 HP in such a light weight car.
With no weight on the back of the crank, the engine spools instantly, and you better be ready for it,. lol

How many cars can pull a wheelie from 10 mph to 100 mph !
Talking about knowing throttle control/wheel speed, you better in a sprint car.
Our aluminum 410ci motor put out 840 HP. Our 360ci was 720 HP.

My best friend Chad and I, raced sprint cars and he has a shop with a chassis dyno, and would test and tune our car and other teams on it. The sprint car system that you can add, is thousands of dollars , so it's not worth it.

Check this out. We push the car on the street & fired it up, take it out of gear, set it on the dyno rollers, and strap it down. We use a Honda 125cc bike against the right rear tire to get it spinning. At about,....2,000 rpm, the driver slips it into gear and the motor fires up.

The first time we dynod the sprint, when Chad stabbed the thottle it pulled a big wheeie. Scared the hell out if him. lol

What happened, was the rear shocks squatted down, putting a lot of slack in the two rear tie down straps, so after that we made two aluminum tubes with heim joints that we replace the shocks with, so it won't squat anymore.

Anyway, I need to look at the engine measurment diagram that is posted, but do you know size difference between the FE and the 460 ?
Also, is there a difference in length ?

I'm asking because I need the total length of the engine with the bell housing and tranny attached vs with a FE.

I'm hoping,.....I won't need to make a new hood scoop, meaning body work and repainting !
I painted the white stripes with custom mixed pearl, so I'd need to repaint the hood and the nose stripes. A lot of time and expense.

[FUNFER2]

The specs. But, no water passages between the cylinder bores, is that ok on the street ?
I know very little about the 460 block & heads.

Ford Performance 460 Siamese Bore Engine Block. Thicker, reinforced casting, 4-bolt main caps, and no water passages all increase the strength of this cast iron block. This block can be bored and stroked to 598 cubic inches, ready to put out all the horsepower you could want.

460 Engine Block M-6010-A460 Features:
- Cast Iron block material
- 10.322" nominal deck height
- 600+ CID capacity
- Siamese cylinder design
- 4.360-4.625" cylinder bore range
- Wet oil sump design
- 3.000" crankshaft journal diameter
- Four on 2,3,4 main cap bolts
- Nodular iron bearing capmaterial
- 4.500" recommended max. stroke
- 1500 recommended max. HP @ 8000 RPM
- Two piece rear crankshaft seal type
- Std cam bearing design
- Block oil filter mount
- Can be bored/stroked to produce 600 cu. in.
- Weighs approximately 290 lbs
- Circle track and drag racing

[CraftEngines]

You have a few options on the cubic inch with the aftermarket block. For heavier cars or trucks we typically do a 4.500" stroke which is 572ci with the 4.500" bore or a 596ci with a 4.600" bore. With the engine going in a Cobra I might recommend sticking with the 4.300" stroke and 4.600" bore which is 572ci. This will tone down that low end a little. Depending on the rpm you want to turn we could do a hyd or solid roller. Because of the valve train weight we typically only use a hyd roller to about 6000rpm or so on the BBF, if you want to turn more rpm you will probably want to run the solid if you are ok with adjusting valves periodically. Not sure what your budget is but most of my guys using the 460 in the Cobra are using the C&C motorsports aluminum block, but we can build it anyway you like. I have had no issues with the Siamesed A-460 block in street applications.

Thanks

[FUNFER2]

Lance, when's the best time to contact you ?


So, 572 cubes

4.300" stroke

4.600" bore

I don't see, that I'll go over 6,000 RPM.

I was very surprised that with my 500 HP/550 TQ 428FE when launching in my Cobra, how fast 6,000 RPM came up, even when shifting the top four gears. Now, I was loosing some traction, but still surprised me.

What valve train do you like with the Ford big block heads ?

I fully expect,.... your motor to climb to 20,000 RPM,..... like a F-1 motor

What cam spec's in both hydro and solid would you suggest, including lobe sep ? (Itend to like 110 to 108 on higher lift's with low weight cars)

I like BIG,...cams, but I know it all has to work together, of course.

F-1 motor on dyno. (Insane)

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=y2iBbwocYZw

[CraftEngines]

You can reach me from 8-5 at the shop (870-246-7460), any other time I can be reached on my cell (870-917-5649). Thanks