429/460 Overheating Issue

[BOBOCobra]

I fought this for an entire summer. Similar issues. Here is how I fixed it.
Overdrive WP pulley. I had to make one as you cannot get an aftermarket pulley smaller than the crank. I did a 20% overdrive. 180 high flow t-stat. Brought idle temp down 10-15 degrees just by moving more water. Next, mounted 2 deraile high flow puller fans (need relays as amp draw is high), one comes on at 190, other at 205. Fully shrouded and covers 80% of core. shrouded fish mouth so ALL air goes through the rad. dropped temp another 10 degrees. I run 100 degrees over ambient on highway and max 210 in traffic on 105 degree days. Once second fan kicks on in traffic it cools down to 200. So, at WOT the pulley is spinning at 6500 rpm, tends to cavitate just a bit but air burps. I run WOT now and then, I run traffic every day, pick your poison. Move more air and more water and make sure rad is clean

[BOBOCobra]

Ran out of space but do the simple things before you start running lines from the back of the heads, etc... Again, you need air and water flow, and the reason you are getting hot is you are lacking on both. Key point you made is that it cools at 2500 rpm idle, you are simply moving more water so you need to do that at idle by spinning the pump faster and having a high flow pump without idle speed of 2500. I idle at 950, pump is almost 1200. The only way to dissipate the heat is move air through the rad fins. There is no such thing as too much. Pull through more air with shrouds and high CFM fans. My fans are as close to the rad as I can get and tilt slightly down to push the hot air down the tunnel. I use a 12# cap and spit about a pint into the overflow on a hot day. 521CID, 580 HP....I generate a LOT of heat

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by BOBOCobra

I fought this for an entire summer. Similar issues. Here is how I fixed it.
Overdrive WP pulley. I had to make one as you cannot get an aftermarket pulley smaller than the crank. I did a 20% overdrive. 180 high flow t-stat. Brought idle temp down 10-15 degrees just by moving more water. Next, mounted 2 deraile high flow puller fans (need relays as amp draw is high), one comes on at 190, other at 205. Fully shrouded and covers 80% of core. shrouded fish mouth so ALL air goes through the rad. dropped temp another 10 degrees. I run 100 degrees over ambient on highway and max 210 in traffic on 105 degree days. Once second fan kicks on in traffic it cools down to 200. So, at WOT the pulley is spinning at 6500 rpm, tends to cavitate just a bit but air burps. I run WOT now and then, I run traffic every day, pick your poison. Move more air and more water and make sure rad is clean

CVF Racing makes pulleys as follows:

• Crank Pulleys (1V, 2V, or 3V): 5.7" diameter
• WP High Flow pulley (1V): 5.4" diameter (5.5% overdrive)
• WP High Flow pulley (2V): 5.2" diameter (10% overdrive)

10% overdrive is what I have on mine - works like a charm.

Ford BBF V-Belt Pulleys: Ford 429 & 460 Big Block Engines

Custom may be the only way to go if you want more than 10% overdrive.

[BOBOCobra]

I went back and looked and I was actually wrong as I tried it a couple times, I ended up at 25% overdrive. 10% was minimal waste of time, 20% was close, 25% was right on. Crank pulley is stock 5.25" and WP is 4". I had to machine a small relief on the back side of pulley to clear the pump drive neck. Not a big deal. 2V drive. At idle I'm spinning pump at 1266 rpm but I run a C6, if manual you can idle at 1100 and spin the pump 1450 and it will move enough water to keep it cool unless there is a restriction or a huge air pocket. I do have a catch can and and overflow from the catch can an a 12# cap. I have a small 6AN air bleed line from high pressure side to catch can so any air comes out on hot side. Bottom of catch can drains to low pressure side rad outlet with 10AN. That allows some hot water to suction hose but it is small volume. It insures I never suck air at high flow condition as it pulls slightly from catch can, vacuum pulls air from hot tank and/or from overflow and keeps everything in a nice closed loop and bleeds the air out of the rad before it is pushed to low pressure side or creates a pocket in the high pressure tank. It may sound complicated but it is really very simple. A lot easier than drilling intakes and cross-overs.