Blew the head gasket!

BlueRooster · #1 (**permalink**) 10-23-2007, 07:53 PM

Can I take the head off as is? I shouldn't need to mess with the timing at all..right? The distributor stays put and the whole rocker assbly doesnt even need to be touched?

CarsByCarl · #2 (**permalink**) 10-23-2007, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueRooster

Can I take the head off as is? I shouldn't need to mess with the timing at all..right? The distributor stays put and the whole rocker assbly doesnt even need to be touched?

You'll have to take the distributor out to get the intake manifold off and you'll need to remove all the rockers and pushrods from the head you're working on for removal of the upper head bolts. After the head is back in place you'll have to rotate the engine by hand and adjust the lifter preload / lash on each rocker and reset the timing after the distributor is back in place.

BlueRooster · #3 (**permalink**) 11-04-2007, 05:40 AM

Took inventory, There is a small cooling line that goes to the water pump from the intake that looks to be a pain in the butt. I think I'll just cut it and fully replace it. It still looks to me like I can leave the distributor alone. Carl, are you saying that it HAS to come out or that it SHOULD come out. Here are some pics to give some ideas.

Shows the sweet rocker assby'

Shows the little hose and the distributor.

turnpike boy · #4 (**permalink**) 11-04-2007, 05:56 AM

BR, you can probably leave the dizzy right where it is. As long as you can squeeze the manifold out (and it looks like you can), leave that sucker alone.

Once the manifold is off, and the head/header/etc. bolts are out, mop up whatever water spills in with paper towels. Be aware the head will still have some water in it. No big deal. You SHOULD check the rockers after re-assembly, tho - while they might be all right, no reason not to re-check 'em. You won't be able to get the pushrods back in with them tightened down, anyway. An easy task - once pushrods are back in, just turn the crank until you see that both valves on any cylinder are shut, run the nut down until you feel the pushrod is snug and won't spin, turning it with your fingers, and tighten the nut another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Lock in place there - best way with polylocks is to get to the snug point, turn the lockscrew down lightly touching the top of the stud, and crank the big nut tight that last 1/4+.

You DO have a hydraulic cam, right? Procedure above is for hydraulics - solids are a hair different.

John Owen · #5 (**permalink**) 11-04-2007, 06:19 AM

Can't tell from the photo, but your engine probably has head studs, not bolts. This makes it very difficult to remove the head while the engine is in a Cobra, particularly the drivers side. Double nuts on the stud will sometimes get them out, but engine removal usually the best approach. Imagine putting it back together and applying 135# of torque to the lower nuts on no. 8 cylinder. As to the little hose, loosen the clamp on the manifold side, then when the manifold is free, slide it back out of the hose. That way you won't reinstall the manifold without the little hose.

ed: You can't remove the upper head nuts without taking the rockers off, and I don't see the need for a stud girdle if the lifters are hydraulic.

Silverback51 · #6 (**permalink**) 11-04-2007, 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Owen

Can't tell from the photo, but your engine probably has head studs, not bolts. This makes it very difficult to remove the head while the engine is in a Cobra, particularly the drivers side. Double nuts on the stud will sometimes get them out, but engine removal usually the best approach. Imagine putting it back together and applying 135# of torque to the lower nuts on no. 8 cylinder. As to the little hose, loosen the clamp on the manifold side, then when the manifold is free, slide it back out of the hose. That way you won't reinstall the manifold without the little hose.

ed: You can't remove the upper head nuts without taking the rockers off, and I don't see the need for a stud girdle if the lifters are hydraulic.

Looks to me from the first picture that he has head bolts, not studs.

I need to replace a head gasket on mine also, but I have studs. No way is the head coming off with the engine in the car, so I'm removing the engine. Then I'm going to cheat. I'm just replacing it with a 514 crate motor.

CarsByCarl · #7 (**permalink**) 11-06-2007, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueRooster

Took inventory, There is a small cooling line that goes to the water pump from the intake that looks to be a pain in the butt. I think I'll just cut it and fully replace it. It still looks to me like I can leave the distributor alone. Carl, are you saying that it HAS to come out or that it SHOULD come out. Here are some pics to give some ideas.

You're right to just cut the bypass hose and replace it. You can't really replace it without removing the intake or waterpump, so you might as well spend the $.50 on hose so you don't have to deal with it at a later date.

Your distributor is taller than most and you might be able to snake around it, but why? It only takes a few minutes remove and install. You said you want to learn to work on your car. Why not learn to remove and install the distributor while you're at it? It's not difficult, and it'll teach you more about how everything works together.

I should also mention that you'll need to be extreamly carefull when cleaning the gasket surface of the alum head because it's easily damaged. There are companies that makes abrasive gasket removal wheels to be used on aluminum, or you can have a machine shop make a .005" clean-up cut on the deck surface.