Inner Fender Panel Fitment

Bernica · #1 (**permalink**) 01-09-2010, 01:12 PM

I posted this question on CSXinfo.net, and thought I would try here too.
It appears that the front inner fender panels on CSX4250 are a poor fit. I have been meaning to address this for a while, and thought I would post a couple of photos for comment / suggestions. You can see that the panels don't come close to filling out to the actual fender. Any comments/suggestions appreciated. Thanks.

strictlypersonl · #2 (**permalink**) 01-09-2010, 03:29 PM

Can you trim back the bottom section of the aluminum? It would allow you to push the middle of the panel back to fill the gap (although the right side looks marginal...).

Bernica · #3 (**permalink**) 01-09-2010, 04:00 PM

I thought about that, but both sides need to move so much I worry that the panel will bend or bow further on the inside. I'm thinking that I need new, wider panels that I can scribe into the fender for the proper contour. Going to try to scribe these and see what I'm working with. Next question will be if I can get new inners with enough material to be able to cut to fit. I am curious that I haven't heard about anyone else dealing with this....

cobrakiwi · #4 (**permalink**) 01-09-2010, 04:13 PM

I think the best way to go would be to mark where and how much extra material is needed while they are in place. Then remove get some good card board and make patterns of each flat section and tape them together and check for fit. Trim edge as needed until they fit nice, mark all your rivet holes then transfer to new alloy, cut, fold, drill rivet holes, glue new seal on and fit. We have done a few of these in shop and with a little time and care not that big of a deal. You should be able to get both front panels out of one 8x4 sheet of alloy.
Go for it and good luck.

Bernica · #5 (**permalink**) 01-09-2010, 04:41 PM

Thanks. I think you're right. It's the right way to do it.
Time to locate a sheet of alloy and start the arts-and-crafts.
Will take photos for the next guy....

TButtrick · #6 (**permalink**) 01-09-2010, 05:13 PM

It seems like the entire panel needs to be moved toward the outside more. I would not trim a thing until you give us more pics. Give us a pic of the the other side. From the engine facing out toward the backside of this panel. How is this secured on the engine bay side? This might not be more than a little panel persuasion. The contour is correct, it's just not mated in full.

TButtrick · #7 (**permalink**) 01-09-2010, 05:49 PM

This is not a CSX but Hurricane but hopefully it will illustrate where you need to go. The entire panel needs to move out to meet to the inside of the body. Look at the lower left of the panel in your second pic. The panel and it'sbulb should tuck up against the inside of the body flare like this...

cdnus · #8 (**permalink**) 01-09-2010, 06:42 PM

If you are convinced the panel needs replacing, I suggest
1. remove the rubber bulb 1st. leaving the panel undisturbed.
2. make a narrow template ( 6" wide?) out of bristol board to fit the contour from top to bottom.
3. transfer that pattern to a strip of aluminum (6" wide?) & check for fit in fender
4. once you are sure it fits correctly, line up & pop rivet to existing panel.
5. now you can remove the original panel with the correctly fitted repair strip attached securely & you have a perfectly fitted patten.
6. clamp onto new sheet & use it as a exact guide for rivet holes etc.

Have fun

Craig

TButtrick · #9 (**permalink**) 01-09-2010, 06:54 PM

No. Don't add to the existing panel.. It's fine. Just grab the lower part of the panel and pull it toward you a bit (toward the spindle) You'll then see that the contour is perfect. You just need to slightly bend (push) the panel from the engine bay side toward the hub. It will fit they way it should.

mickmate · #10 (**permalink**) 01-09-2010, 09:21 PM

The one I have here has the same problem but not to that extent. If you just push the panel back a little it closes that gap right up. It doesn't stay there and the only thing holding that whole end of the panel in place is the two pop rivets at the bottom and the fit of the rubber between that panel and the fender. What about a slightly larger push on rubber that will fit it a little tighter in the fender or rerivet (just made that up) the bottom after raising it a little to hold the panel tighter inside the fender. I have remade a few new inner fenders for the rear after fitting Comp tanks and some of these guys have made a few good suggestions on how to make the panels.

Bernica · #11 (**permalink**) 01-09-2010, 09:48 PM

Wow! A lot of good thoughts and suggestions. It's on a Kwik Lift, so its easy to take a couple of more shots from topside and underneath. I'll post them in the morning. Thanks everyone.

Bernica · #12 (**permalink**) 01-10-2010, 12:24 PM

Here are the additional photos from every view I could think of...

Drivers side first....

Bernica · #13 (**permalink**) 01-10-2010, 12:26 PM

Here's passenger side....

cdnus · #14 (**permalink**) 01-10-2010, 01:25 PM

I know it is a insignificant detail but, I find it interesting that a car of this stature has the rubber bulb fitted entirely around the edge of the panel on the driver side, yet the passenger side has none on the bottom edge.
Is there a reason for this or just an oversight by the builder?

Craig

TButtrick · #15 (**permalink**) 01-10-2010, 03:56 PM

I'd drill out the two rivets that hold the bottom of the panel to the bracket, trim something like the pic below, push the panel out toward the body and redrill/rerivet to the bracket?

mickmate · #16 (**permalink**) 01-11-2010, 09:52 PM

It looks like the panels could be flattened some and that would pull that edge back. If it pulls back easily but just won't stay there why not just wedge or block it into place for a couple of days after siliconing it.

Bernica · #17 (**permalink**) 01-12-2010, 10:08 AM

I'm going to do some "panel massage" this week and will let you know how it goes. Thanks.