Need your opinion please

[undy]

Originally Posted by CoolCarl

OK, so I realize that IRS is better than a straight axle. My question is how much better? I'm in the process of researching kits, checking options, (and most important of all...saving money in the mean time). IRS seems like a pretty big expense.

Would it be justified for someone like me? I plan on just cruising around, 99.9% street use. I'm leaning towards a 9" rear end with LSD but I'm open for suggestions (not sure if my pocketbook is though).

Don't pay any attention to some of our member's sensationalistic opinions and "pot stirring". The live axle is just as suited to this car as the independent setup is. Both have their strengths and weaknesses. The IRS will do "a bit" better on an open track where the live axle kicks butt, 1/4 mile at a time. For the street it's probably a wash.

I wouldn't go with a LSD setup if you want the best track and street hook-up. Try Detroit's True-Trac. It has no clutches, just gears and has a better "posi" effect. It also has no noise like the Detroit "Locker" but hooks just as well.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by undy

Don't pay any attention to some of our member's sensationalistic opinions and "pot stirring". The live axle is just as suited to this car as the independent setup is. Both have their strengths and weaknesses. The IRS will do "a bit" better on an open track where the live axle kicks butt, 1/4 mile at a time. For the street it's probably a wash.

I wouldn't go with a LSD setup if you want the best track and street hook-up. Try Detroit's True-Trac. It has no clutches, just gears and has a better "posi" effect. It also has no noise like the Detroit "Locker" but hooks just as well.

No pot stirring here. He's not circle tracking, and he's not drag-stripping. Putting a solid axle rear in a car like ours that, sooner or later, see's heavy acceleration on uneven streets, will put you in to the trees. I believe it to be a huge safety issue. But hey, it's your life....

[undy]

Originally Posted by patrickt

No pot stirring here. He's not circle tracking, and he's not drag-stripping. Putting a solid axle rear in a car like ours that, sooner or later, see's heavy acceleration on uneven streets, will put you in to the trees. I believe it to be a huge safety issue. But hey, it's your life....

...uneducated opinion based solely on internet experience and hear-say.

Mine's probably seen much harder acceleration than yours (more HP and M/T drag radials) and I've NEVER had a problem with a live axle and never ever even come close to going "in to the trees". Actually, my IRS C6 Z06 is no more stable on bumpy roads than the Cobra. The situation you're describing could provided the same results, IRS or live axle. Posi is Posi.

[undy]

Brent, We're never going to convince these "internet experts". We're accomplishing an exercise in futility. so... the parroting continues.

[blykins]

Definitely go with a positraction rearend. You'll never get any power to the ground whatsoever with an open diff.

Unless you're racing, it would be hard to make a bad decision on what diff to use. The Ford Trac-Lock would work well along with the Auburn diff, or the Detroit True Trac as Dave pointed out.

As for rear suspensions, I prefer the solid axles. Less chance of wheel hop, axles are stronger than half shafts and CV joints, better selection of parts (especially when you compare an 8.8 or 9" Ford to a Jag or Dana 44 rearend).

[RICK LAKE]

charlandk Kevin, The way I read this question is are you running an open carrier read or looking at a posi one? If this is it, Posi over open, reasons why are many. Depending on which carrier you get, it's about putting power to the rear tires and movement. Posi in a straight line both tires work, open rearend in a straight line the r/r tire works only. There are 4-5 kinds of posi's. clutches, air, worn gears, mini lockers, mini spools. The question is what kind of HP is the motor going to have, what are the trans ratio's in the trans you are looking to run, what kind and size tires are you going with?? IMO a posi is needed in any cobra with 300hp or more for control of the car.
Kevin if you have the info on your car on another thread, it would be nice to know. You have not really said what you plan to use the car for?? Cruising, Shows, autocross, road racing, stress release, or chick magnet???
The other question is without knowing the HP and more important thing, TORQUE you are leaving more questions that need answers. A stock rebuilt Jag rearend is good for about 450HP and Torque. Some other rearends will take more or less power limits before breaking. If you normal drive the car, no additional improvements need to be made. If you are going for heavy abuse you need to look at better output shaft assemblies that are good for 750-1,000HP. Chromemoly stub shafts in the carrier. Better sidegears in the carrier and even blueprinting the unit itself. OVER BUILT your car. This way it will take some extra abuse and not break down on the side of the road from a drive train failure. The rearend in my car is all heavy duty parts. Chromemoly shafts, 30 spline locker, heavyduty end supports, gridle for the carrier caps. HP rating is in the 650 range. Been racing this setup for 12 years and no failures. The first year I broke a stub shaft bearing, have had no failures since then. Have gone from 448ft of torque to over 600ft of torque, same rearend and tires. Time will tell about failures of these parts. Rick L.