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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2010, 12:00 PM
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David,

I don't have an extra pan, but I should be able to measure the sump part fairly close enough with a tape measure: Width X Length X Depth X .01732 quarts/cubic inch. If this figures out to be about 4 1/2 to 5 quarts, then I'll know I have a 5 quart pan, with the extra oil going into the oil filter in the stock location. I know I'll need a little more oil with two 3 foot lines from the adapter to the remote oil filter. I can calculate this later.
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Old 06-14-2010, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by CSXDreamer View Post
David,

I don't have an extra pan, but I should be able to measure the sump part fairly close enough with a tape measure: Width X Length X Depth X .01732 quarts/cubic inch. If this figures out to be about 4 1/2 to 5 quarts, then I'll know I have a 5 quart pan, with the extra oil going into the oil filter in the stock location. I know I'll need a little more oil with two 3 foot lines from the adapter to the remote oil filter. I can calculate this later.
CSX;

I just measured a 351-W front sump pan I have in the shop, this came off a 69/70 Cougar...
This is what I found:

The bottom of the sump front to back looks like 8 1/2 inches give or take a 1/4 inch or so.

the sump is 8 1/2 to 9 inches wide at the middle/widest part, the drain plug is on the drivers side of the pan at the rear of the sump.....

also, the sump is a total of 8 inches deep from the top of the pan rail to the middle of the sump which is a pretty a "standard" depth, I checked my notes and a stock 302 pan is the same depth as is my Canton 8 quart road race pan..........


Then I did the "ole water test", 4 quarts in the sump fills it nicely, 5 quarts and the level is starting to creep up the rear slope of the pan, I don't think it would matter much if you ran it to the 5 quart level, I have done so on my 351-W in my Mustang when I was still running the stock/factory pan doing some open track road racing. Was afraid I might get some fluctuations in the oil pressure on long sweeping turns, so I was advised to "just add a quart of oil for insurance" and I did and never had any problems.......

When most folks speak of a "5 quart pan" they are including the filter capacity, so, you need a total of 5 quarts with an oil and filter change, you would actually have 4 quarts in the pan though....

Hope this helps.....

David
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Old 06-16-2010, 10:16 AM
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David,

I got approximately the same measurements laying on my side and reaching in with a tape measure: 8 1/2" X 9" X 4" = 306 in^3/57.75 5.3 quarts. Add another .5 quart for the oil filter and remote lines, and it's almost up to 6 quarts. I think I'll stay with 5 quarts as the 4" height was into the transition slope a little. I should adjust the dipstick some how; shorten it about half an inch from the top, or make a new "Full" mark, or sleeve the D.S. tube to raise it half an inch.
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Old 06-16-2010, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSXDreamer View Post
David,

I got approximately the same measurements laying on my side and reaching in with a tape measure: 8 1/2" X 9" X 4" = 306 in^3/57.75 5.3 quarts. Add another .5 quart for the oil filter and remote lines, and it's almost up to 6 quarts. I think I'll stay with 5 quarts as the 4" height was into the transition slope a little. I should adjust the dipstick some how; shorten it about half an inch from the top, or make a new "Full" mark, or sleeve the D.S. tube to raise it half an inch.

If you can, take a measurement from where the pan and block meet, then take a straight egde and put it under the sump and measure the total depth of the pan, just to make sure...if it is 8 inches, then it is the same pan.......Measureing from the bottom of the sump up 4 inches puts mine into the rear slope of the pan and pretty much out of the sump itself........however, I did put 4 quarts of water in the pan and it is between 2 3/4 and 3 inches deep inside the center of the sump........

You should be right on with 4 quarts in the pan plus the filter/lines,if in doubt,add another 1/2 quart.........I would use 4 quarts in the pan + the filter/lines capacity, run the engine for a few minutes, wait a few minutes, check your dipstick and mark it full at that level......I don't cut the tube or dipstick, I just take a small file and file a mark across the dipstick where my "new" full mark should be.......

David
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Last edited by DAVID GAGNARD; 06-16-2010 at 11:28 AM..
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