Clutch slave

twobjshelbys · #1 (**permalink**) 10-12-2010, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BT SNAKE

Tony,
Does the slave have an adjustable rod on it? You
should be able to control the lengh of engagement by adjustment. It could also be that your slave is mounted to far back and it allows the MC to push fluid past the O ring seal on the slave. If it is this way then the system is stressed to get the clutch disengaged. I would say it would be about 100 miles and it would start to leak.

Hersh

I have no idea what the setup looks like. I can't see it. That's why I'm looking to get a new one and then deal with the correct adjustments afterwards. The shop didn't say anything about it being so, and I would have expected them to be on the watch for this.

patrickt · #2 (**permalink**) 10-12-2010, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twobjshelbys

I have no idea what the setup looks like. I can't see it.

If you crawl under your car and look up at the side of your bellhousing, you can't see the clutch fork stickiing out of the hole in the bellhousing and the slave cylinder hooked up to the end of the fork?

twobjshelbys · #3 (**permalink**) 10-12-2010, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

If you crawl under your car and look up at the side of your bellhousing, you can't see the clutch fork stickiing out of the hole in the bellhousing and the slave cylinder hooked up to the end of the fork?

Bob in CT's setup appears to be external... I do like the tie wraps If you can't fix it with duct tape or tie wraps it's not worth fixing.

To summarize this and following posts: It is an internal hydraulic slave. I can't see diddly squat, and noone took any pictures when the work was just done, so I have no idea what I have. The only way to tell is going to be to drop the entire trans and housing and open it up. Once I go this far it's the point of no return - the car is off power, so has to be pushed around by hand and stored inside the shop for a week while I hunt down parts. My mechanic is one of my best friends and I don't want to tie up his shop with dead weight - that's an income producing spot to him. It does happen to him too, so it's not impossible, but with the weather turning to winter here, it's harder to work in.

Changing over to something new will just extend the process. I'm not inclined to spend the time or money to get a new bell housing and external setup. A hydraulic TOB without a separate slave is in the solution space provided it will fit mechanically. Otherwise we'll replace the slave and make sure it stays within mechanical limits.

P.S. Thanks!

patrickt · #4 (**permalink**) 10-12-2010, 12:51 PM

Tony, you do realize that you have to take it all apart to get to the HTOB. There will never be a better time to switch over to an external slave. The cost is certainly under a thousand bucks (parts, I mean).

EDIT -- I just reread your post. Can you give us the number that you refer to in this: " I'm not going to go to an external slave. I got the estimate for that on the repair that failed, and it wasn't worth it."