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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 06:00 AM
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Good point Undy, some folks seem to have more trouble with corrosion than others. I'm not sure what makes the difference, I've not had any significant corrosion issues myself.

For those of us on a tight budget, paint makes sense! Those caps are not cheap.

So, what KIND of paint did you use Pat?
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 06:21 AM
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I used Krylon High temp a few years back & it still looks good.
http://www.grabcart.com/product/heal...ve-Spray-Paint
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas View Post
Cheer up and go back to your old self---denigrate the crap out of some FFR's, hydraulic lifter guys and non-ERA $5000 IRS-owners!
That's funny. But with the Colts beating the Skins, I am sure Pat is not so cheery this morning.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 06:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Excaliber View Post
So, what KIND of paint did you use Pat?
The Lowes premium brand of black satin spray. It turned out really nice, and the holes that I drilled are nice and round. Plus, I positioned them to create a vortex effect that not only reduces ionization in the cap but also reduces the production of free radicals that I attribute to clouding my judgment when driving the car.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 06:40 AM
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Hmmm, I would have been tempted to go with a flat black. Like that BBQ paint *13* used.
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
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Hmmm, I would have been tempted to go with a flat black.
No, the flat was toooo bland, while the gloss was toooo shiny. The satin was jussst right.
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 07:16 AM
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Did you test the paint for Di-electric resistance?????
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
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Did you test the paint for Di-electric resistance?????
Yes indeeedy doo. Absolutely zero conductivity with the ohm meter.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 09:10 AM
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Default Lest You Think I'm Inconsiderate of Others...

And, in an effort not to irritate ERA Chas and/or RodKnock with another hand-shot, I carefully balanced the distributor cap on the end of my toe while taking this picture of the ohmeter with the leads on the painted portion of the cap. Now, how's that for being thoughtful and considerate of others?


Last edited by patrickt; 10-25-2016 at 07:46 AM..
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 09:22 AM
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I think you should post step-by-step instructions on how to replace your distributor cap. That way, you can increase your post count, get some gratuitous hand shots and show some of us less-technically inclined folks the proper way to do it.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodKnock View Post
I think you should post step-by-step instructions on how to replace your distributor cap. That way, you can increase your post count, get some gratuitous hand shots and show some of us less-technically inclined folks the proper way to do it.
You never told me what broke on your MSD distributor that you had to replace it?
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
You never told me what broke on your MSD distributor that you had to replace it?
Well, it was the little bearing-gear-turning thingee at the bottom. Too much side-to-side play. Caught it before it started to wear out the bronze thingee inside the block.

MSD = POS.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
And, in an effort not to irritate ERA Chas and/or RodKnock with another hand-shot, I carefully balanced the distributor cap on the end of my toe while taking this picture of the ohmeter with the leads on the painted portion of the cap. Now, how's that for being thoughtful and considerate of others?

Not a very accurate instrument for testing cap paint resistance... You need to invest in a Megger. The reference voltage is 500 times what a VOM meter uses. I duplicates your secondary ignition voltage a lot closer.

Tell him Ernie!
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by undy View Post
Not a very accurate instrument for testing cap paint resistance... You need to invest in a Megger. The reference voltage is 500 times what a VOM meter uses. I duplicates your secondary ignition voltage a lot closer.

Tell him Ernie!
Hmmm, perhaps... but can you balance it on your foot?
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 10:08 AM
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Did you wash your feet first? Negative ions could be cancelling conductivity, leading to bad conclusion.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Parker View Post
Did you wash your feet first? Negative ions could be cancelling conductivity, leading to bad conclusion.
Jerry C. assured me that my toe jam is dielectric.
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 10:12 AM
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did you paint your toes? no wait, never mind, don't answer that...........
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vector1 View Post
did you paint your toes? no wait, never mind, don't answer that...........
Yes, with a combination defoliant and fungicide that ERA Chas had been hoarding for decades.
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by undy View Post
... You need to invest in a Megger. The reference voltage is 500 times what a VOM meter uses. I duplicates your secondary ignition voltage a lot closer.
!
Sorry Undy-he broke the budget on the $250 valve gap teller doo-dad.

Could only afford a half-dozen at the oyster bar...
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2010, 10:32 AM
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Patrick, why didn't you post instructions on how to replace your distributor cap? Just as soon as you get back from the oyster bar.

I'll be ordering one of those 84333's and I want to know how to do it the right way.
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