Lock Washers Are Useless!

[elmariachi]

So be honest, you woke up this morning, walked into the water closet, squattted down and thought, "Should I read the McNabb contract again, or the NASA Fastener Design Manual?"

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by WardL

OK, I'm not a gear head. What's a locking nut?

I use these Locking Nuts: http://www.nylocknut.com/

Originally Posted by elmariachi

So be honest, you woke up this morning, walked into the water closet, squattted down and thought, "Should I read the McNabb contract again, or the NASA Fastener Design Manual?"

Uhh, yep.

[Jerry Clayton]

Sooooo Patrick

what kind of locknuts are on your engine mounts? or bell housing????

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton

Sooooo Patrick

what kind of locknuts are on your engine mounts? or bell housing????

None, on either.

[Jerry Clayton]

you need to correct the washers on the bolts in your pressure plate and also why aren't you using the dowel pins for where the pp joins the flywheel??

And your quick jacks

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton

you need to correct the washers on the bolts in your pressure plate and also why aren't you using the dowel pins for where the pp joins the flywheel??

And your quick jacks

My overpriced Centerforce aluminum flywheel had no dowels -- loctited ARP shouldered bolts though. I do use the split lock washers on the starter motor and, as you can see from the photo, I have to retighten them ever few months.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton

And your quick jacks

Surely you're not suggesting that the QJ nuts should go inward?

[RodKnock]

Two pages so far on lock washers?

What is this world coming to?

[rodneym]

Look, let's just safety wire it, spot weld the lock washer under a nylon locking nut, JB Weld a small square of mirror on it and place an energy efficient spotlight on it. Simple.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

Two pages so far on lock washers?

What is this world coming to?

That's what I was thinking. I check out for a few days to spend time with family and I come back to find a 6 page thread on frickin' lock washers? Really?

[Three Peaks]

Okay, so what is everyone using is places where you use a bolt threaded into a threaded hub where obviously a lock nut can't be used? A belleville washer?

[elmariachi]

This thread needs some "Threadlocker," and I ain't talking the stuff in the red tube.

[rodneym]

Originally Posted by elmariachi

This thread needs some "Threadlocker," and I ain't talking the stuff in the red tube.

We're an irrepressible bunch, ain't we?

[Jac Mac]

Try your local hardware shops for a product called 'Nordlock', two piece 'ramped' & 'serrated' washer, only good for RH threads, works great on headers, manifolds, bell housings. Needs a couple of rechecks when used in alloy applications as serrations tend to 'bite' into the softer alloy.... might be just what you need on those 'FE' intakes to keep the bolt clamp pressure up.

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by Jac Mac

Try your local hardware shops for a product called 'Nordlock', two piece 'ramped' & 'serrated' washer, only good for RH threads, works great on headers, manifolds, bell housings.

Thanks Jac for something constructive out of this.

[RodKnock]

I'm betting I'll get slammed for this, but is this option?

http://www.stage8.com/

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

I'm betting I'll get slammed for this, but is this option?

http://www.stage8.com/

I've never used them -- but the guys on the PowerBlock, Stacey David's shows, Truck U, etc., speak highly of them. But, they could be paid to do that, I don't know.

[Ant]

Found this information
Quote US Navy:
Naval Ships' Technical Manual, Chapter 75:
"Although lockwashers may be encountered, using the flat washers with selflocking nuts, self-locking fasteners, self-locking inserts, or thread sealants such as MIL-S-22473 anaerobic compounds is preferable.

A flat washer is used for many purposes, some proper and some not. The two most common proper purposes are:
1. To distribute the pressure of the nut or bolt evenly over the part being secured, reducing the chance of damage thereto, and
2. To provide a smooth surface for the nut or bolt to bear on, making it less likely to loosen as a result of an uneven fastening surface.

Bottom line use flatwashers and if not sure or the part is inaccessible use the correct thread lock and as mentioned Loctite Blue or medium strength is generally sufficient for general automotive applications, if you want to get it apart. For the newcomer Dont use Loctite 262 on your knock off wheel threads or any thread lock for that matter as the larger the thread the worse the problem can become to undo!

[Rick Parker]

The industry for which this fastener is best utilized is for constructing wooden gates! Anything more complex, including starter bolts is best left to a combination of Half Height and Full Height Sheer Stop Nuts, 12 Point hardened nuts with appropriate strength studs, Jet Nuts, AN Washers and #262 Red Locktite. (Blue does not exist in car fabrication) unless you like retightening fasteners for exercise.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Rick Parker

The industry for which this fastener is best utilized is for constructing wooden gates! Anything more complex, including starter bolts...

Well Rick, to be absolutely truthful, reaching down there and tightening them up once or twice a year is easier than replacing them. The only wrench I can get in to the top bolt is a thin-walled 1/2" stubby box wrench -- I can probably get 15 ft/lbs with it, if that, maybe.... Here's what ARP sells for the full size FE three bolt starter and what I should have in there: