Has anyone experienced this problem?

Leecbr · #1 (**permalink**) 11-29-2011, 04:04 PM

Hey guys,

I have a situation where my cobra is really stiff/hard to shift into 2nd and sometimes 3rd gear. I have a Borg Waner T5 running on Royal Purple full synthetic. This only happens at the start of my drive for the first 3 to 5 miles. It seems as if after the clutch or transmission is warmed up then everything shifts smooth.

The problem doesn't occur after the initial start of the drive. Even if it's parked for lunch or a few hours the problem isn't there when I leave. Only at the initial start of the day/drive.
Almost like the residual pressure in the clutch isn't at full pressure until it warms up.

I replaced the clutch this past summer with a new 3/4 bore Tilton Hydraulic clutch. This was what was on the car prior. I then had a new pressure plate and flywheel manufactured to match up to my transmission etc. I didn't have any problems until the outside temps got cooler.

If it were the synchros in my transmission it would be grinding or throwing me out of gear on a consistent basis. I have also adjusted the piston rod travel in my clutch, thinking the pressure plate wasn't fully disengaged. It is strange because it shifts smooth after a few miles..

Should I double clutch to build up some residual pressure in the first few miles?
So could it be the clutch internals need to be broken in more?
Is it because the new pressure plate is still new?

I've put maybe 300 miles on the new parts..

Has anyone had the same issues?

Thanks in advance for your time.

Lee

WildBill1965 · #2 (**permalink**) 11-29-2011, 06:33 PM

My Masda MX-5 has always done it for about 2/3 miles stiff then ok after warmed up, and my old Rabbit Diesel also same thing, cobra ok though!

B i l l

Leecbr · #3 (**permalink**) 11-29-2011, 06:49 PM

Bill,

Thanks for the reply.

WHEW!!! I was hoping it might be a temperature or warm up situation. If it was either the clutch or transmission it would of happened ealier in the summer and would be consistent.

It's funny how we mentally baby these cars. If it was my corolla I would just deal with it.. ha ha..

I also spoke with Wayne Bulk over the phone tonight. He is a local friend and cobra owner too. He has built a few of these Borg Warner transmissions. He also stated the transmission fluid is thicker when cold and when warmed up everything works fine. He has also experienced the same thing with previous transmissions. This is not the norm on all trannys but I guess most T5 trannys can be tempermental with other issues.

Royal purple runs cooler so it must take a bit longer to warm up compared to regular non synthetics..maybe?

I need to understand that most cobra owners don't drive them as late into the season like I do.

thanks again.

WildBill1965 · #4 (**permalink**) 11-29-2011, 07:19 PM

Lee glad to be of help, I haven't experienced this with the TKO 600, but I always try and get the engine up to teperature before before driving. And I drive my Cobra all year long without the top coldest is 26* don't like the idea of letting the motor set all winter. Keep the gas flowing and the oil circulated and no valve spring set or having to turn the engine over to prevent spring set. Happy Cruising!!!

B i l l

Leecbr · #5 (**permalink**) 11-29-2011, 08:22 PM

Bill,

Your more of a man than I am.. 26*...BRRR...I stop driving mine when the temps get below 38/40 ish degrees. All depends on how cold that wind chill is..

In the colder days of winter I will start mine once a week to keep all the fluids flowing. On sunny winter days I will warm her up and go around the block.

Have a happy holiday season.

Lee

427mudflap · #6 (**permalink**) 11-29-2011, 08:29 PM

Bleed the air out from the highest point in the system.

Three Peaks · #7 (**permalink**) 11-29-2011, 08:57 PM

Which Royal Purple oil are you running in your tranny? I assume ATF ? If this is a World Class (87 or later) T5 it requires ATF fluid as opposed to the earlier models which would use gear oil. Might make a big difference when cold.....

Bob

Leecbr · #8 (**permalink**) 11-30-2011, 07:19 AM

427mudflap,

Yeah I thought it might have an air bubble too. I've bled it twice..

Bob,

I use Synchromax Manual Transmission Fluid. It states the ATF version of Royal Purple would be better for engines that take Dexron or Automatic transmission fluid. Both are outstanding for reducing transmission internal wear and for heat reduction.

I know this thread might seem dumb to most but new issues for me. Learning along the way.

Thanks for the suggestions. I really do appreciate it.

Lee

Three Peaks · #9 (**permalink**) 11-30-2011, 03:42 PM

Lee,
The later T5's require ATF because they use paper or carbon fiber gear spacers (?) which don't react well to standard transmission fluid.

Bob

Bobcat · #10 (**permalink**) 11-30-2011, 06:10 PM

Leecbr .... I have a Tilton master cylinder and TOB on my ERA and was about to rip everything off until I called Tilton . Seems that the seals on the MC piston can trap some air behind them and it can be almost impossible to get out bleeding normally . I took a spare MC apart and verified that . Solution was to take the MC loose from its bracket and tilt it upwards at about a 45 degree angle with the bleeder at the top . Disconnected the linkage so I could cycle it by hand . Used a pressure bleeder at about 5 psi to make sure the reservoir didn`t run dry . Got 2 or 3 bubbles out of it when I did that . Another check for air in the MC is to plug the outlet port and then see if the pedal moves at all . It should be rock solid .

Have fun ,
Bob

Leecbr · #11 (**permalink**) 11-30-2011, 07:52 PM

Three Peaks,

I will take it into the local shop (weather permitting) to change out my transmission fluid from the Synchromax to the ATF... Wouldn't hurt to run the ATF since it's stated that it can be used inplace of the Dexron.

Bobcat,

Ok..It sounds like I've got a project for the upcoming weekend/week.. Thanks for the info. I'll give it a shot.... Hopefully the MC doesn't wind up being tossed accross the garage. With profanity combos never heard by mankind bellowing from the garage.

lee

Wbulk · #12 (**permalink**) 12-01-2011, 05:59 AM

Lee, Three Peaks is right, that trans requires ATF Dextron II or III or equal oil. If that Royal Purple is not designed as a replacement for ATF that is a contributing factor. The synchros in that trans require a thinner oil for easy shifting. Thicker oil will cause hard shifting until the oil heats up.

Wayne

Bobcat · #13 (**permalink**) 12-01-2011, 06:42 AM

Lee ... that`s one good thing about our cars ... it expands our vocabulary greatly . When I`m in the garage during the Summer , parents make sure their kids aren`t in hearing range .

Bob

Leecbr · #14 (**permalink**) 12-01-2011, 11:05 AM

Hey Guys,

Here is my update..I ran the car over to Jiffy Lube and had them drain and fill with ATF fluid. I also had them add an additive to the transmission fluid.

The car was hard to shift as usual getting there...They are only about a mile away from my house. After the proper fluid ( ATF) was filled the car shifted with great ease...I swear I felt a tear roll/froze down my cheek as I drove away. Not 100% sure it was too damn cold to tell. 34* maybe...

I drove it for a while and all the gears shifted like they should..Smooooooooth...

So once again you guys really pulled through for me. I can't say how grateful it is to be a part of this group.

BobCat,

Looks like the kids ears won't be burning from my colorful vocabulary. To be honest with you, I was dreading having to mess with that MC. It's a ***** to get to the MC.. You guys know... being tucked away on that driver side next to the side/body vents. I would of had to take the side pipe off to get to it...Haven't even brought up realigning it and adjusting the pedal etc......Whew..That mess avoided.

Thanks again to all the great suggestions..Have a happy holiday season.

Lee