Engine dies in Friday evening traffic...

[Mongoose930]

Per the MSD Tech Line for the Blaster 2 Coil:

The primary resistance, measured from the coil pos. stud and the coil neg. stud should be .7 Ohms. That is 7/10 of an ohm +/- 10%.

The secondary of the coil measured between coil pos. stud and the center tower (where the coil wire clips on) would read 4.7K Ohms. That is 4.7 thousand ohms (4,700 ohms) +/- 10 %.

[acmjg]

The other reason that the coils from the '60's lasted so long is they were not made in China like the junk we get today.

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by acmjg

The other reason that the coils from the '60's lasted so long is they were not made in China like the junk we get today.

Very possible,I can go pull a big box full of coils off 60's/70's cars/trucks at a nearby junkyard, probably get them for a buck a piece, might just do that and clean them up and start selling them!!!!!!!!

On another note,I'm building a 331 for my street car, using a 1994 Mustang GT 302 block,these engines came with TRW forged flat top pistons and a Ford OEM double roller timing chain and hydraulic roller cam..
I ordered a new Comp Cams hydraulic roller cam and their double roller timing chain..Now the 94 GT motor was running in the junkyard when I bought it,unknown mileage as this engine had been transplanted in a 1988 Licoln Mark ??
The factory Ford USED timing chain set looks a lot better USED than the new Comp Cams set!!!!!!! I had to spend the better part of an hour working on the crank gear,it was not even close to going on the crank,new out of the box,looks like some half blind 10 year old kid did the machine work on it!!!the old ford one slid right on as it should have.......

Just becasue something is from an after market company and is labeled "High Performance" or something like that,doesn't mean it is better than an OEM part!!!!!!!!

David

[Dangerous Doug]

Originally Posted by Mongoose930

Per the MSD Tech Line for the Blaster 2 Coil:

The primary resistance, measured from the coil pos. stud and the coil neg. stud should be .7 Ohms. That is 7/10 of an ohm +/- 10%.

The secondary of the coil measured between coil pos. stud and the center tower (where the coil wire clips on) would read 4.7K Ohms. That is 4.7 thousand ohms (4,700 ohms) +/- 10 %.

The difficulty I could see with this test is finding the failure in the coil before it cools enough to open the short (or close the open, whichever failure mechanism is occuring). Coils that I've had fail were intermittent failures, and the primary variable was heat.

After I had (incorrectly) determined the coil had failed, I shut the hood, put my DMM back in the tool box and put the toolbox onto my passenger floor, climbed in, buckled, and then the engine fired right up. Not much more than a few minutes, if that.

One site I looked at last night used a spark plug fed directly from the coil tower with a grounded base to see if there is enough spark. Sounds...shocking...

DD