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Kirkham Motorsports

 
 
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Old 09-08-2012, 12:45 PM
Rick Parker's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: California, Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 Slabside Early Comp Car with 289 Webers and all the goodies. Cancelling the efforts of several Priuses
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I have a T10 in my car and it has worked well, especially considering I paid $175 for it originally. Most of the T10s were Iron cased, very few of the Ford applications used Aluminum. T10's were most notably used in Falcons, some early full size Fords, and early Mustangs, applications dictated different length tailshafts. The shifting mechanisms occasionally have some wear in them that make shifting difficult. Check the rubber bushings that hold the shifter to what is refered to as the control box. These were NOT used on the OEM Cobra application but were later added to eliminate vibration from being transmitted through the handle and creating a "BUZZ" while at speed. If the bushings are bad the handle will move from side to side and be sloppy, making actual gear selection difficult. Next have the control box that the handle attaches to looked at. If the large 3/4" shaft is worn, it too will create issues when selecting different gears. Next check & or adjust the fork shift rod mechanism. Put the shifter in neutral and insert an 1/8" diameter pin, drill bit, through the hole in the side of the control box and through each arm in the control box, remove the shift boot or do this from under the car. This assure you the shift lever itself is in neutral before any further adjustments. Next loosen the nuts that attach the shift rods to the levers on the contol box, move each lever on the transmission to it's respective location for neutral which is dictated by detents in the side case and then tighten the nut securely. Do this (or have this done) for all 3 shift rods. Be sure also there is no interferance with the shifting mechanism and transmission tunnel housing. Use 90 weight gear oil in the transmission not one of the newer lightweight oils that are commonly used in the newere transmissions. If this does not resolve your problems, the gearbox will need to be opened up, there may be too much end play within the gear clusters. Due to their age, and who is doing the repair, used parts are chosen in the rebuilding process and this often causes problems, due to the wear on the parts used. Most notably the syncro hubs staying locked on the chosen gear because the "Points" that are ground on the gear become rounded off by improper gear selection, speed shifting or "Jambing gears. This allows the transmission to "Pop out of a gear" either while slowing down or sometimes while accelerating. Once corrected they shift smoothly and are trouble free. All this assumes the clutch itself is releasing fully when the pedal is depressed.

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Last edited by Rick Parker; 09-09-2012 at 11:47 AM..
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