Bellhousing question

[RICK LAKE]

kevins2 kevin If AZ is any thing like NJ the roads suck. If you are running a 5" height on the frame and 15" tires, you shouldn't hit any thing with the bottom of the car. I run 4" with 17" wheels and have hit the bellhousing. I bent the lip back but still have all the bolts holding the plates togeather. I have a lakewood setup. Here's the problem I have and have seen happen. This was with SFI parts of a clutch assembly blowing up and came out the bottom of the bellhousing. Explosion blew open the bottom and cut down the tires at the track. Owner walked away, car was totaled. Guy was band for life from track for modifing bell. There was a hole in the track surface also the size of a small potholemaybe 6-8".These bell housing are not to be modified for this reason. Odds of you blowing up are less than 1%. Other notes, you know the motor sits about 1" over to the right in an ERA car? The drive shaft is not straight from back of trans to rearend. The important thing is the have both the angle degree of the outputshaft match the angle degree of the pinion on the rearend. This stops vibration of the drive train. I hoped you checked your out of round on the bellhousing before installing the trans. Quicktime are "0" checked where lakewood was .38" off on my motor. Last note I have the motor sitting 1/4" high on the r/s to allow for torque loads on accelleration. Helps. Add the bolt,washers and aircraft nuts to limit the rubber motor mounts from spliting over time. There is a thread for this either here or in FE forumn. Good luck Rick L.