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 7Likes
02-04-2014, 11:35 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
Lippy - have you seen the tip on making a couple 3 or 4 inch dowels for the two upper transmission to bellhousing bolts by cutting the heads off of a couple of long bolts? When the transmission is lifted into place it's hooked on the dowels and carries the weight so it can just be slid into the clutch and pilot bushing with less binding. Besides easing the heavy lifting it protects the clutch disk from bending and helps protect the pilot bushing. I've used it many times on my 66 Corvette and it helps a lot. I think Bob mentions it in his manual also.
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02-04-2014, 12:41 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Bay Area (Peninsula),
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 427, 427/487 side-oiler
Posts: 1,248
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
Lippy - have you seen the tip on making a couple 3 or 4 inch dowels for the two upper transmission to bellhousing bolts by cutting the heads off of a couple of long bolts? When the transmission is lifted into place it's hooked on the dowels and carries the weight so it can just be slid into the clutch and pilot bushing with less binding. Besides easing the heavy lifting it protects the clutch disk from bending and helps protect the pilot bushing. I've used it many times on my 66 Corvette and it helps a lot. I think Bob mentions it in his manual also.
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Dan, yeah that's a good tip and I'm planning on doing it when I reinstall the trans. I didn't do it the first time around because the engine was on a stand so I could just use a floor jack to get the trans lined up to bolt it on. Thanks! |
02-04-2014, 01:20 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by lippy
Dan, yeah that's a good tip and I'm planning on doing it when I reinstall the trans. I didn't do it the first time around because the engine was on a stand so I could just use a floor jack to get the trans lined up to bolt it on. Thanks!
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Did you use one of the old fashioned oilite pilot bearings, or one of the jobs that have the roller thingies in them? I'm trying to remember ever being a part of screwing up a pilot bearing with a clutch install and, frankly, I've been involved in breaking a lot of parts. But I can't ever recall doing that. |
02-04-2014, 03:31 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Bay Area (Peninsula),
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 427, 427/487 side-oiler
Posts: 1,248
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
Did you use one of the old fashioned oilite pilot bearings, or one of the jobs that have the roller thingies in them? I'm trying to remember ever being a part of screwing up a pilot bearing with a clutch install and, frankly, I've been involved in breaking a lot of parts. But I can't ever recall doing that.
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It's a pilot bushing. Ram part #BU50D. Not my first boneheaded screw-up, not my last. I'll deal with it and move on. |
02-04-2014, 03:48 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
More pilot bushing tips that you probably already know but my half-baked advice is cheap.
For removal, filling the crank cavity behind the bushing with a grease gun and then finding a socket that fits pretty snuggly to the hole, putting a short extension on it and tapping it into the hole with a hammer will pop the bushing out by hydraulic pressure.
Putting the new bushing in the deep freeze overnight and they quickly pulling it out and driving it in will ease the interference fit installation.
Good luck.
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02-04-2014, 06:17 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Bay Area (Peninsula),
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 427, 427/487 side-oiler
Posts: 1,248
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
More pilot bushing tips that you probably already know but my half-baked advice is cheap.
For removal, filling the crank cavity behind the bushing with a grease gun and then finding a socket that fits pretty snuggly to the hole, putting a short extension on it and tapping it into the hole with a hammer will pop the bushing out by hydraulic pressure.
Putting the new bushing in the deep freeze overnight and they quickly pulling it out and driving it in will ease the interference fit installation.
Good luck.
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Dan, I've heard that method is effective but Brent recommends using a mechanical bushing puller, so I ordered one (they're cheap). The freezer tip makes a lot of sense too, thanks. |
02-04-2014, 03:56 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by lippy
It's a pilot bushing. Ram part #BU50D. Not my first boneheaded screw-up, not my last. I'll deal with it and move on.
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That's the same one I have in mine -- $7 from Summit. I'm still not clear on how you managed to break it. 
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02-04-2014, 05:11 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Bay Area (Peninsula),
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 427, 427/487 side-oiler
Posts: 1,248
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
That's the same one I have in mine -- $7 from Summit. I'm still not clear on how you managed to break it.
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I didn't break it per se, but it is scored on the front surface. |
02-04-2014, 05:15 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by lippy
I didn't break it per se, but it is scored on the front surface.
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Post a pic of it if you can. |
02-05-2014, 06:07 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by lippy
I didn't break it per se, but it is scored on the front surface.
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Lippy - does it look like the beveled part of the input shaft (leading to the splined part) might have been hitting the bushing. That would be an odd thing. Possibly the bushing wasn't fully seated deep enough the first time. Pulling the transmission in with the bolts might have seated the bushing further but left the input shaft in an interference fit with it.
Understand on the puller. I installed the wrong bushing in mine first. I had a metallic one and a non-metallic one and installed the wrong one by not paying attention. I used the grease gun trick for the first time and was amazed at how fast and easily it popped the old one out.
I found my non-metallic bushing (real bronze - magnetic won't stick to it) at NAPA under a heavy duty (HD listing). The price was cheap too. |
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