Advice on Mounting my Should Harness for SPF #205

[jhv48]

My wife refused to even ride in the car without both a passenger side roll bar and shoulder harness.

So we compromised.

I installed a second roll bar and shoulder harness.

[twobjshelbys]

Originally Posted by jhv48

My wife refused to even ride in the car without both a passenger side roll bar and shoulder harness.

So we compromised.

I installed a second roll bar and shoulder harness.

My wife's disdain for the Cobra only stopped at the harnesses. That was the so called "straw that broke the camel's back". She got snake bit (every one does, once) even though I warned her just seconds before to be careful of the pipe. She found it uncomfortably hot, etc. Anyway, she made the crossed-fingers vampire cross when she walked by it.

I'll have another one some day.

[frankym]

one of the things i realized is that if i mount the shoulder harness by going through the fiberglass bulkhead, it would be better to mount the anchor as high as possible. If you were to use the superformance pre drilled holes, you would be mounting about 4 inches lower than you could if you utilized all that space up above the frame rail. I am going to try welding my own mount that will dog leg the anchor point to the center of the seat back and about 1 inch from the upper (underside) of the body panel (that area where the rollbar is in). Then you would be less likely to have that downward pull that the shoulder harness would have under the normal place where SPF suggest to anchor, which is pretty low on the shoulders, like mid to upper back.

[twobjshelbys]

Originally Posted by frankym

one of the things i realized is that if i mount the shoulder harness by going through the fiberglass bulkhead, it would be better to mount the anchor as high as possible. If you were to use the superformance pre drilled holes, you would be mounting about 4 inches lower than you could if you utilized all that space up above the frame rail. I am going to try welding my own mount that will dog leg the anchor point to the center of the seat back and about 1 inch from the upper (underside) of the body panel (that area where the rollbar is in). Then you would be less likely to have that downward pull that the shoulder harness would have under the normal place where SPF suggest to anchor, which is pretty low on the shoulders, like mid to upper back.

Can you post a sketch of your design? If you are doing what I think it won't be structural but I need to see a drawing.

If you have:


+--------------------------ooooo---------+

where + is the anchor point of the cross member to the frame and o is the SPF cut out, and you are proposing doing:



+--ooooo--+
| | <your new work welded to
| | <existing cross
+-------------------------ooooo---------+

The weld will break and even weaken the existing cross. But maybe I'm not understanding what you are proposing.

It might be better if you come through at the upper position, add your welded material but still attach the belt to the lower cross member. Then the forward motion will still probably take out your added work due to the forward motion, but it will absorb some of the energy and at least the belt will still be attached to a structural entity.

[frankym]

Tony, i'm going to try to weld up the piece tonight for the driver side (if i get home early enough), I may not weld it into place quite yet, but i'll take some photos of the piece in position and post it here, otherwise, we'll be building a tower of babel, with texting about sketches and drawings and imagining positioning.i have 1/8 inch dimensional DOM tubing and 1.25 inch angle steel to work with , also have a bug welded up for the thread. all will make sense when you see the unit.

[DanEC]

ERAs mount to a steel chassis member just under the rear cowl - about as high up as possible other than mounting to a roll bar.