Installing a new Canton pan - Do I still need the windage tray???

[RICK LAKE]

Bylkins Brent it's snowing. You are right about what went on in the late 60's- mid 70's. Again correct on what the motor is built for. Clearances have changed with pi$$ poor oil to lube a motor now. If you go with one of the some special companies that make different blends of oil, like Joe Gibbs you can get away with alot more.
I look at it this way, a ford FE block needs some work to help the oiling system unless its an Sideoiler. There have been a couple of articles about enlarging the main channel in the block from 3/8" to 1/2". Limiters in the heads, You are in the middle for size between .060" and .080". I have seen a couple of motors running .060" that the pushrod tips and cups on the rockers blued. The rocker where not top of the line like Sharp, T&D, Erson, Jesel. I think you can figure out who is left.
FE motor is about 55 years old. The bore and stroke have been maxed out to 4.400" and stroker of 4.375 with a small camshaft. The aftermarket blocks can go a little bigger. hear there's a guy trying something in the 600 cube range with a tall deck block setup. Biggest problem except for oiling is the heads. Have not checked in on the lastest new heads from Bear but hearing intake flow in the real low 400cfms. That's nice. Down side new heads from other manufactures are pushing in the 420-over 500cfm on intake. Power is all in the heads and bore spacing. We run out of room for bigger valves over 2.25" intake and 1.75 exhaust. The port design is poor. IMO Way too much dead air in the bottom of the port and top. The magic of port to valve size is in the 85-87% range for max unless this has changed with the new larger back cuts of the valve and 5 angle seats. Here's the 64 thousand dollar question, what's better swirl heads or straight drop in flow heads?? See bear is using heart shape combustion chambers.
new trick that is been out for a while is oiling the thrust bearing to keep the crankshaft in the middle of the thrust when running. little .015" TO .017" hole. This helps soften the crankshaft from banging the thrust bearing when loading and unloading the drivetrain.
You are one of the few builder who take the time and ask the owner what you want out of a motor and what you(owner) is going to do with the motor. Most people IMO don't understand that torque moves the car, not HP from idle to 5,500 rpms where HP takes over. Big problem with cobras are they are a flying barn door. I learned real fast that a paxton hood on my car caused liftoff at 138 mph on the front wheels. This was with a 1/2" drop of front to back on long flat area. 2705 pound and I need clearance to take off.
You Barry R., George A, Jay B., Joe B, ( fresno ) Kuntz, KCR all Build some solid strong motors. they are all a little different in ideas and specs but get the job done. I like old school and due to age and stiff neck will stay there. My motors are not the most powerful in HP but run for years with 95% abuse time on them and no failures of the block assembly. I do have 2 failures of the shelby heads with helicoils ripping out of the heads. Have gone to all timeserts and no more failures. New things and ideas come up everyday with a better way to get longer life and more power from this motor. Bottom line is, it's reached just about the limit for it without poweradders. The sad thing is 351block motors are street driving and producing in the 750+ hp and 600+ft of torque and go to 7,800 rpms all day long. An FE will get stress out to the limits to even some close. I know Kuntz has FE's in the 900hp range now and tricks out the back door. These are short term motors not street or every day drivers. Going to stop here, Promised to stop getting on soap box. I know this with aftermarket blocks that are entered oiled, until I break one or burnt one up, or show signs of bearing wear from high oil pressures I will stay with this setup. Have a external wetsump setup from dove. Will add this to the 498 motor or go avivad system. For me the 70-80's are still here and running just fine with basic 15-40 oil. Have a good day Brent.

[blykins]

I have seen some "tricks" by the older engine builders from the 60's-70's. They are the ones with 5/8" holes between the mains and cam bearings with Holley jets threaded into them....or hogged out passages from the pump, etc. There were a lot of things that they tried back then, but they have since been proven as wasteful or downright wrong.

There are no inline valve FE heads that flow 400's....BBM included. I've been working on a set of BBM's for a personal project that are flowing around 340-350. Keith Craft's Stage 3 Edelbrocks hit around 380, but that's the most I've seen. I used a set on Mr. Brown's 496. I've also got a set of hand ported Tunnel Port heads here that flow in the 370's. Most of the "good" aftermarket heads have the heart shaped chambers as you say.

If you're ever willing to give it a shot, a hot oil pressure at WOT in some of my race stuff is about 75-80 psi. Main bearing clearances are usually around .0017-.0018 on aluminum blocks, a little tighter if I use coated bearings. Rod bearings are usually around the .0025" mark with BBC rods. Of course I measure my cranks and have them ground if they're out of round or tapered by any more than a few tenths. Just remember that high oil pressure costs horsepower and causes heat. Where do you draw the line? If 100-120 is good, is 150 ok too?

Stay warm man, I think we're all gonna get dumped on. Tomorrow is high 15.....