Oil pan studs or bolts?

[lippy]

Yeah, it's leaking again. Put some dye in to check it out. It appears to be seeping in several spots but it is particularly bad at the rear of the pan,and I get drips down the flex plate. The clutch is fine and the inside of the bell housing is dry so I don't think it is the main seal, but I have to check it again closely.

Sort of pisses me off because I was so careful last time. Made sure the (Aviaid) pan flange was flat, cleaned everything meticulously, and used Permatex gasket cement to glue Milodon gaskets to windage tray and then Right Stuff on the other side of each gasket. I then used Canton studs all around and once I torqued them down a couple of heat cycles I added another nut to each stud to lock the primary nut.

But it still leaks. Someone told me the Canton studs tend to loosen but the ARP ones are better. Not sure how different they could be but the locking pattern on the nuts *could* be different.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by lippy

Someone told me the Canton studs tend to loosen but the ARP ones are better. Not sure how different they could be but the locking pattern on the nuts *could* be different.

The studs on the passenger side of the oil pan are reverse threaded, just like the wheel spinners.

[Detroit Bill]

Originally Posted by lippy

Yeah, it's leaking again. Put some dye in to check it out. It appears to be seeping in several spots but it is particularly bad at the rear of the pan,and I get drips down the flex plate. The clutch is fine and the inside of the bell housing is dry so I don't think it is the main seal, but I have to check it again closely.

Sort of pisses me off because I was so careful last time. Made sure the (Aviaid) pan flange was flat, cleaned everything meticulously, and used Permatex gasket cement to glue Milodon gaskets to windage tray and then Right Stuff on the other side of each gasket. I then used Canton studs all around and once I torqued them down a couple of heat cycles I added another nut to each stud to lock the primary nut.

But it still leaks. Someone told me the Canton studs tend to loosen but the ARP ones are better. Not sure how different they could be but the locking pattern on the nuts *could* be different.

That is good that its not the rear main. I am going to replace that this winter..... The rear main on an FE block in antiquated and crude at best.
I would double check it. Look up the design and install of the rear main. It is almost comical. Let's jut say it comes with nails!

I was told by a credible source that synthetic oil can cause problems with old school gaskets. Sounds odd to me but the source was experienced. I don't want to speak for anyone else so I'll skip the name. I think I am going to skip the synthetic next time. The oil will never see 2,000 miles of street use so I think synthetic is overkill.

Barry put me on to this RTV.
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-TA-31-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B000NUD02W"]Amazon.com: Genuine Ford Fluid TA-31 RTV Silicone Sealant - 5 oz.: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31H%2B5%2BjE0YL.@@AMEPARAM@@31H%2B5%2BjE0YL[/ame]

I have used it and like it. Again I am going with experience here.

I have bolts and my pan does no leak. I went through three tightening cycles, I am at 1,400 miles.