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 3Likes
01-13-2016, 05:11 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Bay Area (Peninsula),
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 427, 427/487 side-oiler
Posts: 1,248
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Not Ranked
May take me a couple of weeks, but you'll see it.
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01-13-2016, 05:17 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by lippy
May take me a couple of weeks, but you'll see it.
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I think you should buy a seasoned iron block, then carefully disassemble your existing engine and transfer each part to the new iron block. That's the only hope you have for dealing with your leaks. Either that, or just put pie tins under the drips.  |
01-13-2016, 07:03 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charlottesville,
va
Cobra Make, Engine: Coombe, Shelby Block 496
Posts: 1,187
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Not Ranked
Here are a few pictures of what we came up with to try and help with the leaking oil pans.
601 HP HiTech Mod's |
01-13-2016, 09:11 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobrakiwi
Here are a few pictures of what we came up with to try and help with the leaking oil pans.
601 HP HiTech Mod's |
Post 40 in the referenced thread for the time limited. I bet that does cinch the pan gasket up tight - very impressive. |
01-14-2016, 09:43 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: White City,
SK
Cobra Make, Engine: West Coast, 460 CID
Posts: 2,916
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
Post 40 in the referenced thread for the time limited. I bet that does cinch the pan gasket up tight - very impressive.
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Yes, VERY impressive. I have a pan from Armando's and I like it, but the pan rails could use something like that as they'd bend or distort far too easily without similar reinforcement.
__________________
Brian
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01-14-2016, 09:17 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Cooper City,
FL
Cobra Make, Engine: Contemporary Classics, red white stripes
Posts: 139
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Not Ranked
Studs
I started using set screws for valve cover studs, after seeing them on a friend's race car. You don't really need high strength ARP studs with coarse/fine threads, and the coarse threads allow you to tighten them with more friction on the nut w/out collapsing the gasket.
I used to use ARP studs on the pan, but they kept backing out. I don't recall what I have on the pan right now. I know I tried using studs with silicone on the threads, but that was a long time ago, and I haven't been under that car in a while, so I just don't remember. The Cobra has bolts from a previous owner.
Sorry to ramble, just thought I'd provide a data point on studs vs. bolts.
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01-15-2016, 06:21 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance, Survival Motorsports aluminum FE 482
Posts: 662
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by cycleguy55
Yes, VERY impressive. I have a pan from Armando's and I like it, but the pan rails could use something like that as they'd bend or distort far too easily without similar reinforcement.
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Is that part available?
__________________
Bill
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01-15-2016, 06:34 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charlottesville,
va
Cobra Make, Engine: Coombe, Shelby Block 496
Posts: 1,187
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Detroit Bill
Is that part available?
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Sure is. |
01-15-2016, 09:40 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: White City,
SK
Cobra Make, Engine: West Coast, 460 CID
Posts: 2,916
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Detroit Bill
Is that part available?
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Detroit Bill: Are you asking about the pan or the reinforcing rails? If it's the rails I'd like to find the p/n as well!
cobrakiwi: You said it is - can you provide p/n for rails? Puhleez? BTW, my engine is 460 CID (385 series).
__________________
Brian
Last edited by cycleguy55; 01-15-2016 at 09:43 AM..
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