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Old 11-05-2015, 05:46 PM
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Question Speedo cable help

the speedo gave up recently on CSX 7005 , its a stewart warner guage running to a tremec 5 speed.
Any one know about these ?Where can you buy another cable?
many thanks paul.
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Old 11-13-2015, 04:13 PM
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Call these guys:

Texas Industrial Electric

Tell them what you have on each end, exactly how long it needs to be and you will have a new one in your mailbox in 5 days or less.

Jim

Last edited by elmariachi; 11-13-2015 at 04:16 PM..
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Old 11-13-2015, 05:20 PM
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Mid-way through this thread Lubricating the Smiths Speedometer Cable To Stop Needle Bounce I give the diagnostics to deal with a misbehaving speedo, the cable, the driven gear in the trans, etc. Even though mine is a Smiths and TKO, the basic troubleshooting is the same for a SW. It is not a terribly difficult task, and if your cable is broken, your local auto parts store will have one behind the counter. I thought for sure I had the part number for the cable, but I don't. I'm pretty sure though that it's just a straight Ford part. Just take your old one to the store with you.
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Old 11-13-2015, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
I thought for sure I had the part number for the cable, but I don't.
Try NAPA 615-1644
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Old 11-13-2015, 05:48 PM
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Page 23 has the cable details for tremec, don't know if speedo end is the same?

www.erareplicas.com/freeman/fia.pdf

I ordered one for a 67' mustang a few weeks ago, picked it up a couple days later. Looks like you might need the same cable
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Old 11-13-2015, 05:58 PM
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Paul, Use a Pioneer Automotive ca 3015. 60" long . Remember to lube well before installing.
I use another as well, but only have that name and number at the shop. Will try to remember to look it up for you tomorrow and post for you.
Ross
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Old 11-13-2015, 06:00 PM
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Paul, Use a Pioneer Automotive ca 3015. 60" long . Remember to lube well before installing.
I use another as well, but only have that name and number at the shop. Will try to remember to look it up for you tomorrow and post for you.
Ross
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Old 11-13-2015, 06:21 PM
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Paul
There is a guy that makes them.
He can make you exactly what you need.
I will text you.
Jeff

Last edited by 1985 CCX; 11-13-2015 at 06:36 PM..
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Old 11-13-2015, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
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Paul
There is a guy that makes them.
He can make you exactly what you need.
I will text you.
Jeff
Don't keep it a secret. Others will need his services sooner or later.
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Old 11-14-2015, 05:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ACademic View Post
Try NAPA 615-1644
Grabbed my receipt. My Part number was 615-1646
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Old 11-14-2015, 02:35 PM
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The other make is an ATP Y-807
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Old 11-20-2015, 03:26 PM
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thanks alot guys , will get under there this weekend.p.s. how does it come off at the tremec end ?
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Old 11-20-2015, 03:53 PM
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Mine is a toploader. Being its the same cable...I had to grab mine with needle nose visegrips & work it out. It was pretty tight in there. It will scar up the cable housing but, since it's a replacement, it shouldn't be an issue. It pushes back in a lot easier. I worked it in by hand.

Obviously you'll find there is a retainer clip with a bolt that needs to be removed before you pull the cable
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Last edited by *13*; 11-20-2015 at 03:59 PM..
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Old 11-20-2015, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulmartin View Post
thanks alot guys , will get under there this weekend.p.s. how does it come off at the tremec end ?
It's a medium PITA to deal with, just because of its position and, if you have fat, stubby, numb fingertips, it's hard to get it all back in. It's a clip with a bolt that holds it all in to the transmission. Here is a pic of mine. Note the orange Torque Seal on it. I put that on PITA bolts because it makes checking them much easier. It's not necessary though. Remember there's a little plastic driven gear on the other side of the cable inside the transmission. There's a little C-clip that holds it on, but it still invariably falls off and bounces under something in the garage when you remove the cable.


Last edited by patrickt; 10-25-2016 at 01:30 PM.. Reason: C-clip advisory.
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Old 11-20-2015, 05:56 PM
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That reminds me... There is almost no access from underneath, on my car, either. I pull the tunnel to gain access. It's still a PITA, slightly easier though....after removing a few dozen screws.
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Old 11-23-2015, 11:59 AM
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thanks guys , yeah looks like the drivers seats and tunnel have to come out as my csx has the daytona style back bone chassis so accees is nil from ...this could be the royal PITA!
cheers paul
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Old 11-23-2015, 12:15 PM
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I've had my tunnel apart so many times I've considered cutting it into seperate pieces to make it easier... Good luck with it, Paul!
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Old 11-23-2015, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
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I've had my tunnel apart so many times I've considered cutting it into seperate pieces to make it easier... Good luck with it, Paul!
Funny you should say that. One of the recommendations I made to Bob P. was to have a trap door on the passenger side of the tunnel that would allow for easy access to the front U-Joint by just removing the passenger side seat. Greasing the front U-Joint, when you have the outboard braked rear with the hand brake installed, is a PITA. You might as well have a trap door on the driver's side as well to get to the stuff on that side of the transmission.
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Old 11-23-2015, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
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Funny you should say that. One of the recommendations I made to Bob P. was to have a trap door on the passenger side of the tunnel that would allow for easy access to the front U-Joint by just removing the passenger side seat. Greasing the front U-Joint, when you have the outboard braked rear with the hand brake installed, is a PITA. You might as well have a trap door on the driver's side as well to get to the stuff on that side of the transmission.
Absolutely agree. There is just about nothing you can do from the under side of the car, if it's behind the main body of the tranny.
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