Found this in my oil pan

[dcdoug]

I think I have a cast iron distributor gear, but regardless it looks fine (I checked yesterday). I'll pull the valve covers later today and see if there is anything there. I'm also cutting open the oil filter to see if there are other signs of bearing destruction. I'll check around the 3rd main and see if I can see anything and what the crank play is. I think the spec is 0.008.

Regardless I think the engine's gotta come out and be checked out (but someone better than me).

[wkooiman]

Looks like pieces of a gear to me. You said you checked the distributor gear, and a piece was missing from the collar. What collar?

Maybe you lost a chunk from the distributor gear on the camshaft, and a piece took out a chunk from the collar.

Also check your valve springs and retainers. I ran titanium retainers for a while, and the springs dug into the retainers. I didn't find chunks in the pan, but I could see how that might happen.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by wkooiman

Looks like pieces of a gear to me. You said you checked the distributor gear, and a piece was missing from the collar. What collar?

Maybe you lost a chunk from the distributor gear on the camshaft, and a piece took out a chunk from the collar.

Also check your valve springs and retainers. I ran titanium retainers for a while, and the springs dug into the retainers. I didn't find chunks in the pan, but I could see how that might happen.

The collar right above the distributor gear.

I pulled the covers and everything looks good and there is no metal anywhere.

[Shootnride]

To me, those kind of look like pieces of a bronze valve guide.

Ted

[moore_rb]

Originally Posted by mln385

Well the length and the fact the big lengths look round , could be valve guide remnants.

Originally Posted by Shootnride

To me, those kind of look like pieces of a bronze valve guide.

Ted

3 votes for broken valve guide...

[blykins]

How did you cut it apart?

Got pics of the element pleats?

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by blykins

How did you cut it apart?

Got pics of the element pleats?

I used a dremel around the lip. These pieces seem bigger than any filings that I might have created using that method.

Pleats were pretty clean. Found a few small particles only I'll try to take some pics.

[PeteH]

Since the oil pan is off, you can disassemble one bearing cap at a time to look for trouble, start with #3 main to see what the thrust bearing looks like. You may not be able to pull #1 or the rear most main cap, but should be able to pull all the rod bearing caps. The condition of the bearings would be a good indication if it's time for a rebuild. If any part of those chunks were pumped thru the oil system, there may be scoring on the bearings and/or crank. Also, since the bottom is open, I would take a good careful look at the piston skirts with a flashlight, look for any chipped or broken edges, although being aluminum, those would not be magnetic at all.

[jhv48]

Could they be pieces from the oil pump pickup tube?

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by PeteH

Since the oil pan is off, you can disassemble one bearing cap at a time to look for trouble, start with #3 main to see what the thrust bearing looks like. You may not be able to pull #1 or the rear most main cap, but should be able to pull all the rod bearing caps. The condition of the bearings would be a good indication if it's time for a rebuild. If any part of those chunks were pumped thru the oil system, there may be scoring on the bearings and/or crank. Also, since the bottom is open, I would take a good careful look at the piston skirts with a flashlight, look for any chipped or broken edges, although being aluminum, those would not be magnetic at all.

I still don't think I would feel good about not having someone go through the engine at this point.

[FWB]

doug, who built the motor?

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by FWB

doug, who built the motor?

Dwight Powell from Dahlonega, GA. He specialized in period correct FE's. He's since passed away though, so I can't ask him.

[FrankR105]

Guess you can't delete a post once you've made it. Just discovered someone already mentioned my idea. As Emily Latella used to say, "Never mind!"

I know the pieces have Copper-like tendencies, but I would have thought someone should have mentioned, by now, to check the bottom of the pistons and their skirts. The pan is off anyway, should be easy enough (unless you have some serious windage baffles). Use a strong light.

[PeteH]

I agree dcdoug, the motor needs to be thoroughly looked at, just suggesting ways to asses if any serious damage visible. Since you stated they are pliable, not hard and brittle, they may be bits of some sort of gasket sealer the builder used rather than metal bits. I've always built my own motors, and having a few bits of sealer in the oil pan later isn't unheard of, no matter how careful you are during assembly. I tape magnets on the oil filter to try to contain the fine particles from breaking in and wear. Bigger chunks of metallic bits in the oil pan are never good, they came from some component somewhere.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by PeteH

I agree dcdoug, the motor needs to be thoroughly looked at, just suggesting ways to asses if any serious damage visible. Since you stated they are pliable, not hard and brittle, they may be bits of some sort of gasket sealer the builder used rather than metal bits. I've always built my own motors, and having a few bits of sealer in the oil pan later isn't unheard of, no matter how careful you are during assembly. I tape magnets on the oil filter to try to contain the fine particles from breaking in and wear. Bigger chunks of metallic bits in the oil pan are never good, they came from some component somewhere.

If I had to guess I'd say they were copper.

[PHM]

I have seen this exact same thing before!!! I had a 65 mustang fastback and put a new 302 in it from Jasper racing Engines. The motor had a roller cam and i just put in the stock distributor from the original motor and didn't know i had to use a new bronze gear. It wore out the steel gear in about 20 min. Once i installed the bronze gear the cam wore into the bronze gear and left these exact kinds of chips!!!! Once it wore in it was fine until i sold the car which was about 10 years. I am thinking maybe they dyno tested your engine with the bronze gear and this is the leftovers since you said you have a steel gear. I would not pull the motor if it is running fine!! JMO

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by PHM

I have seen this exact same thing before!!! I had a 65 mustang fastback and put a new 302 in it from Jasper racing Engines. The motor had a roller cam and i just put in the stock distributor from the original motor and didn't know i had to use a new bronze gear. It wore out the steel gear in about 20 min. Once i installed the bronze gear the cam wore into the bronze gear and left these exact kinds of chips!!!! Once it wore in it was fine until i sold the car which was about 10 years. I am thinking maybe they dyno tested your engine with the bronze gear and this is the leftovers since you said you have a steel gear. I would not pull the motor if it is running fine!! JMO

The only problem with that is the oil pan is new from a few years ago.....these scraps are new and the distributor gear looks fine.....

[PHM]

I don't know what to tell you then. If it is running fine i would just keep running it.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by PHM

I don't know what to tell you then. If it is running fine i would just keep running it.

Me too. In fact, I'd run it a while revving over six grand. That way, if there was something wrong with it, I'd get to the bottom of it pretty quickly. And, if nothing happened, then I would feel even more confident that I was right and that piece of crap was harmless and came from who knows where -- but it's not a big deal.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Me too. In fact, I'd run it a while revving over six grand.

Seriously, clients actually pay you money, not in sheep, cows or pigs, for your advice?