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Hi.
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http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-cobra-talk/140155-hi.html)
| t walgamuth |
07-23-2018 05:20 PM |
My 10" air cleaner sits in a 24 x 14 hole in the hood, protruding from the hood about 2". I plan to create a barrier so it breaths only outside air. I'm also looking for a scoop that will clear it and look good.
As for straight line stability I suspect the 35 and 40 profile tires are a big contributor. The suspension design dates back to about 65 or so I think.
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| t walgamuth |
07-24-2018 04:06 AM |
I just checked the tire dates....2209. 9 years old. Better get some new.;)
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| cycleguy55 |
07-24-2018 10:36 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth
(Post 1448519)
My 10" air cleaner sits in a 24 x 14 hole in the hood, protruding from the hood about 2". I plan to create a barrier so it breaths only outside air. I'm also looking for a scoop that will clear it and look good.
As for straight line stability I suspect the 35 and 40 profile tires are a big contributor. The suspension design dates back to about 65 or so I think.
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There's a good thread here on turkey pans - but I believe the most recent post is almost 3 years old. http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-...urkey-pan.html |
| t walgamuth |
07-24-2018 12:59 PM |
1 Attachment(s)
Today I titled the Cobra. They have it down with no brand name and are calling it special vehicle construction I believe it is. I want to register it as a VSE which it is but they said no.
Also I had two different documents, one saying 3.113 original miles with the odo accurate the other said it has 6000 miles and odo is not accurate. Do you all think these two things are worth pursuing.
I speak as it concerns the value of the car should I decide to sell.
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| t walgamuth |
07-25-2018 04:53 AM |
I keep getting a soft pedal in my Cobra. The brakes have been bled three times. Bleed them and for a while a good solid pedal, then in a few days it is soft again. Any thoughts?
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| cycleguy55 |
07-25-2018 11:04 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth
(Post 1448612)
I keep getting a soft pedal in my Cobra. The brakes have been bled three times. Bleed them and for a while a good solid pedal, then in a few days it is soft again. Any thoughts?
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Drop a Viagra in the brake reservoir. :LOL::LOL::LOL: |
| t walgamuth |
07-25-2018 11:55 AM |
What's that?;)
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| indianamoon |
07-25-2018 01:26 PM |
That's where you pour the brake fluid in.....
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Are you using a vacuum bleeder or pumping the pedal? I think you said you have bled the system a few times... are you finding additional air bubbles each time you bleed them?
Sometimes the order that you bleed the system makes a difference regarding removing trapped air in the system.
I'm wondering if your brake booster might be leaking. Do you hear any hissing noises when your press the brake pedal?
The brake pistons can get corroded as the pads wear and they extend further out of the caliper. Then when you re-compress the pistons the corroded area comes back into contact with the cylinder and seals and they don't seal properly anymore.
Blas
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| t walgamuth |
07-25-2018 03:56 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blas
(Post 1448642)
Are you using a vacuum bleeder or pumping the pedal? I think you said you have bled the system a few times... are you finding additional air bubbles each time you bleed them?
Sometimes the order that you bleed the system makes a difference regarding removing trapped air in the system.
I'm wondering if your brake booster might be leaking. Do you hear any hissing noises when your press the brake pedal?
The brake pistons can get corroded as the pads wear and they extend further out of the caliper. Then when you re-compress the pistons the corroded area comes back into contact with the cylinder and seals and they don't seal properly anymore.
Blas
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Thnaks for your thoughts. No power booster, manual only. I have been pumping the pedal and my mechanic turning the bleeders. Maybe next time I'll switch spots with him. No hissing. the car has only 3000 miles on it so they are not likely to be corroded in the extended cylinders.
I believe he did RR lr rf and lf which should be the correct order. |
| t walgamuth |
07-25-2018 03:58 PM |
Today when I went over to a buddy's place to take him for a ride it quit. No spark. We tested a bit and found no spark from the magneto. I am thinking of switching to a more modern distributor. I suspect the mag is because of no room with the four webers on it...?
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| MOTORHEAD |
07-25-2018 04:12 PM |
Corrosion in internal brake units is Time related, not milage. Most brake fluid is hydroscopic , it absorbs water from ambient air moisture. I think when you found this car it had been sitting for quite a while ??
Did you change the fluid ? Even If you did, that doesn't negate any existing corrosion.
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| t walgamuth |
07-25-2018 08:14 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by MOTORHEAD
(Post 1448660)
Corrosion in internal brake units is Time related, not milage. Most brake fluid is hydroscopic , it absorbs water from ambient air moisture. I think when you found this car it had been sitting for quite a while ??
Did you change the fluid ? Even If you did, that doesn't negate any existing corrosion.
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Well, you may be right on. I don't know how much it sat but with the mileage showing it had to sit a lot. |
| EM-0785 |
07-25-2018 08:25 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth
(Post 1448612)
I keep getting a soft pedal in my Cobra. The brakes have been bled three times. Bleed them and for a while a good solid pedal, then in a few days it is soft again. Any thoughts?
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Below is from another site online, in case helpful:
"It possible that could be air still in the system. In general if it's air you should be able to pump the pedal and have it come up and be firm and hold that level. Air compresses while the brake fluid does not. If you allowed the fluid level in the master cylinder to drop to the point it could draw air in you may have air trapped...
If you pump the pedal and it goes firm but slowly drops while you hold it you may have an additional leak somewhere or you could have a bad master cylinder. During normal use brake fluid can become contaminated and the master cylinder wears internally but only for the length of your brake pedal travel. If you used the pump the brakes method to bleed them your pedal travel is greater than normal (perhaps ever in the history of the car). This will push the internal seals over new territory which may have some internal rust, a wear ridge, etc... causing the seals to tear. Once this happens the break pedal will never hold firm again. Pumping the pedal may help but under pressure it will have a slow drop."
Fwiw...Brent |
| t walgamuth |
07-26-2018 04:25 AM |
Thanks EM... that covers a couple of things I have not ever thought about before. I'll be replacing the other MC soon so both will be new. so that should take care of the problem. There does not appear to be any leaking around the calipers so they should not be the problem.
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| EM-0785 |
07-26-2018 06:10 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth
(Post 1448696)
Thanks EM... that covers a couple of things I have not ever thought about before. I'll be replacing the other MC soon so both will be new. so that should take care of the problem. There does not appear to be any leaking around the calipers so they should not be the problem.
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You bet, like I said, if it helps, it was from someone else and seemed to make some sense! Another possible area for fluid loss, which happened to me (but you'd likely have seen the fluid build up).
The old rubber master cap seals were in very rough shape and not sealing well. On steep hills and in heavy braking they actually leaked fluid. I replaced them and that stopped. I haven't yet replaced the masters as I'm considering longer term pedal and floorbox options/arrangements, but those are holding firm now.
Brent |
| t walgamuth |
07-27-2018 06:19 AM |
Yesterday I picked up a new HEI distributor. I'll be chasing plug wires for it and working on pedal relationships today.
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| t walgamuth |
07-31-2018 04:10 AM |
Hoping to have it all buttoned up to run a bit at Winchester speedway on Friday with the Hoosier Cobra club.
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| t walgamuth |
08-01-2018 03:40 PM |
So far I have adjusted the placement front to rear of the brake, reinstalled the clutch spacer, cut a half inch off the right side of the brake pedal, had a 2'" spacer welded to the gas pedal and then cut a half inch off the left side of the gas pedal. Gaining room to get the steering wheel away from my chest I then had a spacer made to move the wheel 3/4" to the rear and reinstalled the lovely 14" diameter leather covered moto lite wheel using the accumulated distance. And today sat in the car reaching the pedals perfectly and the steering wheel far enough forward to steer with comfort while allowing my knuckles to live freely without hitting the cowl edge.
Shoujld have the DEI distributor installed tomorrow in time to go to Winchester speedway on Saturday.
Woooo Hooooo!
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| t walgamuth |
08-02-2018 05:09 PM |
Got it running today with the hew HEI. Also did some brake work. Tomorrow will bleed brakes and perhaps get an alignment if I can get in somewhere.
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