Fixing one thing leads to another...

[spdbrake]

This does sound sorta hot. Aircraft recips are regulated to 200F but those are different animals.

So I had to read up.

(100c) or 212F is the magic number from what most articles I read said oil should run at.
Probably why a lot of manufacturers use the radiator as a heat exchanger/oil cooler. Danger in that is when it leaks, water gets in your oil...(Happened on a Nissan I owned)

The top 3 (seems like they know what they're doing...)
What Is The Optimum Engine Oil Temperature? - Hot Rod Network
https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us...duct-guide.pdf
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...ion&key=22-480

The only thing I found which disagreed somewhat.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Engi...pPZJaTas0vZJM:

And Earls plumbing
https://www.holley.com/products/plum...t/parts/501ERL

The Earls part opens at 180F vs 215F as on the Canton part.
I might spring for the Earls unit as I'm changing out all my hoses anyways.


BTW Dan there is a recall on 15-17 GT350 for suspect oil lines, this is probably old news to you or may not apply.
https://ford.oemdtc.com/2472/16s40-e...g-gt350-gt350r

[tortuga]

I've converted to an all nylon braided hose fuel feed from my original big billet log and collection of an fittings to get it BELOW the turkey pan real close to the manifold; the hoses are all as high as possible up in the pan, both exiting at the back...I ran the forward hose as high as I could...in poking around it seems that the front of the manifold gets hotter than the back. Guessing that the coolant passages, the reservoir and generally less chance for air to circulate causes this?

The comment about the crappy CA winter fuel and the Wonderfully warm winter we've had is probably a very valid point.

Aside from the hot start problems, the motor seems really really happy running hotter.

Steve H
SPF 1764

[tortuga]

Second

[Gaz64]

The trouble with late model Holleys now is they all run the more efficient umbrella inlet check valve in the pump cavity, but they all don't have a pump bleed back to the bowl, typically. 013, so when the pump chamber gets hot, it dribbles out the pump nozzle, flooding the engine.

You can drill a .013 hole outside the umbrella so the pump can bleed back.

Some guys machine a groove in the bottom of the bowl near the edge of where the umbrella seats.

Early bowls with their hung inlet check ball rarely suffer from this condition.

Gary

[Ron61]

Just for what it is worth but both my small block and big block run the oil temps at around 240/250 and the water at 210/220. They were designed to run that way and if they don't get up to that temperature they don't run as well.

Ron

[bingo2]

Just throwing this out there. Ford, back in the 60s, began installing 195 degree thermostats in most of their engines. Then began advertising longer oil change intervals and better fuel economy.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by Ron61

Just for what it is worth but both my small block and big block run the oil temps at around 240/250 and the water at 210/220. They were designed to run that way and if they don't get up to that temperature they don't run as well.

Ron

Wow Ron - that seems really warm for oil. I think my GTX can get up around 220 on a hot day wit AC on but that's about it. Did Ford equip the Super Cobra Jet with an oil cooler - I was thinking they did? Of course most of the engines only ran 5 qts oil back then with some running 6 so they did run warm.

[tortuga]

Originally Posted by Gaz64

The trouble with late model Holleys now is they all run the more efficient umbrella inlet check valve in the pump cavity, but they all don't have a pump bleed back to the bowl, typically. 013, so when the pump chamber gets hot, it dribbles out the pump nozzle, flooding the engine.

You can drill a .013 hole outside the umbrella so the pump can bleed back.

Some guys machine a groove in the bottom of the bowl near the edge of where the umbrella seats.

Early bowls with their hung inlet check ball rarely suffer from this condition.

Gary

I'm going web hunting for a how to on this!

Thanks!
Steve H

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by tortuga

I'm going web hunting for a how to on this!

Thanks!
Steve H

It's a relatively obscure point; I've never had to do it myself. But you can read about it here: https://www.musclecardiy.com/perform...-pump-circuit/ Just skip down to the paragraph that starts with The accelerator pump system needs to counter the following two situations...

[Gaz64]

Here it is here:

The accelerator pump system needs to counter the following two situations. So as not to discharge fuel through the squirters when the throttle is opened slowly, in some systems there is a controlled bleed from the pump back into the fuel bowl. Older carbs have a check valve located within the pump. When the throttle opening rates exceed a certain amount, the check valve closes and the fuel is redirected solely to the squirters. Also worthy of note is that some aftermarket Holley specialists drill a small bleed-back hole through the pump roof/float bowl floor. This hole needs to be small (about 0.012 inch), but it can be used as a tuning aid for the pump system in much the same way as Weber pump jet float bowl bleed-backs.

Good to see this in black and white,.

Gary

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by spdbrake

BTW Dan there is a recall on 15-17 GT350 for suspect oil lines, this is probably old news to you or may not apply.
https://ford.oemdtc.com/2472/16s40-e...g-gt350-gt350r

Thanks - my understanding was the recall affected the 15 and most 16 cars but was corrected before the 17s appeared. But an Oasis report showed mine was clear.