Club Cobra Keith Craft Motorsports  

Go Back   Club Cobra > Cobra Talk Areas > ALL COBRA TALK

MMG Superformance
Nevada Classics
Keith Craft Racing
Main Menu
Module Jump:
Nevada Classics
Nevada Classics
Keith Craft Racing
MMG Superformance
Advertise at CC
Banner Ad Rates
MMG Superformance
MMG Superformance
MMG Superformance
March 2024
S M T W T F S
          1 2
3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10 11 12 13 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23
24 25 26 27 28 29 30
31            

Kirkham Motorsports

Like Tree3Likes

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2018, 04:08 PM
Jim Coleman's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Waco, TX
Cobra Make, Engine: 1980 Arntz, 350 'Vette & Muncie, & Jag rear
Posts: 219
Not Ranked     
Default Anyone Make A Kit To Uncage Jag XKE Rear?

Working on the Jag rear for my Arntz, wondered if anyone made a kit to uncage the rear end. I can come up with something, but would like to see if there's something out there to buy or maybe copy.

Thanks,

Jim
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2018, 04:37 PM
patrickt's Avatar
Half-Ass Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 21,889
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Coleman View Post
Working on the Jag rear for my Arntz, wondered if anyone made a kit to uncage the rear end. I can come up with something, but would like to see if there's something out there to buy or maybe copy.

Thanks,

Jim
I would steal the design of the ERA "optional rear" -- it is based on the Jag rear and is absolutely lovely. Front view of rear suspension.
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2018, 05:27 PM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New Britain, CT
Cobra Make, Engine: Size 10 Feet
Posts: 2,993
Not Ranked     
Default

If I remember correctly, the Arntz is basically the same as Contemporary. The differential is mounted to a cross-tube at the top. The lower control arms pivots go through a crossmember at the front and float at the back. Contemporary uses a tie-bar at the rear for reinforcement. Trailing arms are "geometrically" impossible because of the binding involved, although some people do it anyway. I would reinforce the lower radius arms like ERA.
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2018, 06:06 PM
joyridin''s Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,689
Not Ranked     
Default

On an Arntz, there is a plate on the upper crossmember where the differential mounts. There are outer plates on the upper crossmember where the shocks mount. You can either run the factory style trailing arms to the front, or make your own off the lower outer fulcrum to the rear. The inner fulcrum shaft should go through the frame crossmember.

If you have to fabricate everything yourself, you might want to look at a Corvette rearend from a C4. They are all LSD and parts are a lot easier to find. Maybe even a 8.8 IRS, although they seem to be pretty complicated.
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2018, 06:57 PM
Jim Coleman's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Waco, TX
Cobra Make, Engine: 1980 Arntz, 350 'Vette & Muncie, & Jag rear
Posts: 219
Not Ranked     
Default

I like the look of the rear end uncaged.

Thanks,

Jim

Last edited by Jim Coleman; 02-27-2018 at 10:03 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2018, 10:20 PM
Banned
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Cobra Make, Engine: Rowan Replicars, 352 4V
Posts: 94
Not Ranked     
Default

I fabricated a mounting system for my Rowan Replicars replica, the car came with an 8" Ford rear end and leaf springs.

I mounted the differential on a cross member that bolts to each side of the upper frame rail, I then used a series of heim rods to hold the differential in place and gave me some adjustment. I added brackets to the cross member that provide the shock mounts.

I also used a 1/4" plate on the bottom of the differential, heim rods connect that plate to the chassis at the front and rear. I also modified the leaf spring mount to have the correct angle for the control arms (level with the lower control arm diff pivot points).

This mod was quite a job, I had to pay special attention to pinion angle and the height of the differential so the drive shaft would have the correct angle.











joyridin' likes this.
__________________

Rowan Replicars 1965 Cobra Replica
352 4V, T5, Jaguar Posi rear end with 3.30 gears.
https://www.facebook.com/pormgb/
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2018, 04:11 AM
1795's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Canandaigua, NY
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF MKII Riverside Racer FIA
Posts: 2,471
Not Ranked     
Default

Nice work fabricating that up!
pormgb likes this.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2018, 07:38 AM
legenmetals's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: LAS VEGAS, NV
Cobra Make, Engine: contemporary(2) one with 427 sohc and one with 427 center oiler
Posts: 491
Not Ranked     
Default

I'm currently rebuilding the Jag set up in my Contemporary. I swapped out the XKE housing for a newer XJS. I will have to use the XKE lower brackets to keep the proper pinion angle. I braced the LCA this week.

I have been exploring the idea of fabricating radius rods to support LCA movement when braking and acceleration. Any input from the Club would be appreciated.

pormgb - I see in your photos above that you have radius rods, do you experience any binding in the suspension travel?Name:  IMG_20180227_173009973.jpg
Views: 159
Size:  90.1 KB
Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2018, 10:00 AM
Tom Wells's Avatar
Senior Club Cobra Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: St. Augustine, FL
Cobra Make, Engine: E-M / Power Performance / 521 stroker / Holley HP EFI
Posts: 1,912
Not Ranked     
Default

Interesting thread.

Experience would say there might be a need to reinforce the wishbone at the outer end, also:
Attached Images
 
__________________
Wells's law of engine size: If it matters what gear you're in, the engine's too small!
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2018, 10:16 AM
joyridin''s Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,689
Not Ranked     
Default

Pictures sent.
Reply With Quote
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2018, 11:18 AM
legenmetals's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: LAS VEGAS, NV
Cobra Make, Engine: contemporary(2) one with 427 sohc and one with 427 center oiler
Posts: 491
Not Ranked     
Default

Name:  IMG_20180228_110135417.jpg
Views: 185
Size:  95.0 KB

Name:  IMG_20180228_110405844.jpg
Views: 155
Size:  75.4 KB


After looking at the broken LCA pictured I reviewed mine and took a couple of pictures.

What I see in the pictures are a forging and a tube that are butt welded.
The two parts are put into a locating jig that arc electricity between the two parts bringing them up to temperature and than pushes the two parts together quickly. I would assume they use air cylinders to accomplish this because of the speed required.
This process squeezes out the metal around the welded joint, Then the weld looks to be turned down on the OD leaving the metal on the inside of the tube.

Maybe not a bad idea to brace.
Reply With Quote
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2018, 12:19 PM
cycleguy55's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: White City, SK
Cobra Make, Engine: West Coast, 460 CID
Posts: 2,844
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by legenmetals View Post
Attachment 31511

Attachment 31512


After looking at the broken LCA pictured I reviewed mine and took a couple of pictures.

What I see in the pictures are a forging and a tube that are butt welded.
The two parts are put into a locating jig that arc electricity between the two parts bringing them up to temperature and than pushes the two parts together quickly. I would assume they use air cylinders to accomplish this because of the speed required.
This process squeezes out the metal around the welded joint, Then the weld looks to be turned down on the OD leaving the metal on the inside of the tube.

Maybe not a bad idea to brace.
Based upon the photo of the broken LCA, it would seem the first place to reinforce would be the lower portion of the outer butt weld. This would be most stressed as it's between the shocks/springs and the hub, and therefore subject to the greatest tension due to the weight of the vehicle, cornering forces, etc.

The upper portion of the same weld is under compression most of the time, so less stressed, but probably still worth reinforcing.

A short section of tubing with the same ID as the OD of the LCA could be used to reinforce the joint. Once separated into two halves it could be wrapped around the LCA butt weld joint, clamped and then welded around its circumference on both sides and across both seams where the halves join. Voila - much stronger with minimal addition to unsprung weight.
__________________
Brian
Reply With Quote
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2018, 12:36 PM
legenmetals's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: LAS VEGAS, NV
Cobra Make, Engine: contemporary(2) one with 427 sohc and one with 427 center oiler
Posts: 491
Not Ranked     
Default

Good idea,maybe I can incorporate an attach point for a radius rod also.
Reply With Quote
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2018, 05:20 PM
Jim Coleman's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Waco, TX
Cobra Make, Engine: 1980 Arntz, 350 'Vette & Muncie, & Jag rear
Posts: 219
Not Ranked     
Default

Some good looking work there guys !

I am in the process of complete disassembly of the rear end as was advised on RallySnake on another post.

I got a set of flanges with lug nut studs with the rear end to replace the knock off flanges. My question is: how do I get the knock off flanges off ? I thought they might just pull out but they're stuck on there pretty good. Soaked them with PB Blaster, and am letting them sit until I get advice on how to remove them.

Thanks,

Jim
Reply With Quote
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2018, 06:43 PM
legenmetals's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: LAS VEGAS, NV
Cobra Make, Engine: contemporary(2) one with 427 sohc and one with 427 center oiler
Posts: 491
Neutral     
Default Removal

Name:  IMG_20180228_182423240.jpg
Views: 117
Size:  98.0 KB

This is a shot of the parts that stack up to build the rear hub assembly. These parts fit into the aluminum upright.

The knock off hubs are splined to fit over the axle shaft, on the end of the axle is a nut that you have to remove. You will find a hole in the side off the knock off hub to access a cotter pin that goes through the axle and nut.

This hole is for installation and removal of the cotter pin. Not unlike the front hub of a car.

Un-screw the nut and the hub should slide off and out of the aluminum upright.

I hope this is the answer you are looking for.
cycleguy55 likes this.
Reply With Quote
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2018, 09:40 PM
Jim Coleman's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Waco, TX
Cobra Make, Engine: 1980 Arntz, 350 'Vette & Muncie, & Jag rear
Posts: 219
Not Ranked     
Default

I didn't see what you were talking about, had the assembly sitting upside down with the PB Blaster in it.

Turned it over, and saw the nut. Don't know why I didn't see it before............

Thanks.

Jim

Last edited by Jim Coleman; 02-28-2018 at 11:18 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2018, 09:50 PM
Banned
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Cobra Make, Engine: Rowan Replicars, 352 4V
Posts: 94
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by legenmetals View Post
I'm currently rebuilding the Jag set up in my Contemporary. I swapped out the XKE housing for a newer XJS. I will have to use the XKE lower brackets to keep the proper pinion angle. I braced the LCA this week.

I have been exploring the idea of fabricating radius rods to support LCA movement when braking and acceleration. Any input from the Club would be appreciated.

pormgb - I see in your photos above that you have radius rods, do you experience any binding in the suspension travel?Attachment 31509
No, no binding. I do have dual 250lb springs per side so there ain't much suspension movement. When setting up the differential, I made sure that when at rest, the control arms were as horizontal as possible. This gives equal movement up and down, the radius arms don't travel very much in either direction.
__________________

Rowan Replicars 1965 Cobra Replica
352 4V, T5, Jaguar Posi rear end with 3.30 gears.
https://www.facebook.com/pormgb/
Reply With Quote
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2018, 10:06 PM
Banned
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Cobra Make, Engine: Rowan Replicars, 352 4V
Posts: 94
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Wells View Post
Interesting thread.

Experience would say there might be a need to reinforce the wishbone at the outer end, also:
I fixed that problem by turning down solid round steel so it connects both pieces at the joint, I then tapered the edges and welded the joint penetrating through to the steel round.

I also drilled two holes either side of joint, these holes exposed the steel round, I then welded up the hole securing the round to the lower control arm tube.



__________________

Rowan Replicars 1965 Cobra Replica
352 4V, T5, Jaguar Posi rear end with 3.30 gears.
https://www.facebook.com/pormgb/
Reply With Quote
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2018, 04:01 AM
Buzz's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: St. Lucia, West Indies, WI
Cobra Make, Engine: Unique 427SC 383 stroker
Posts: 3,725
Not Ranked     
Default

I'm also using an inner reinforcement on my LCA's. Not solid round, but heavy gauge tubing matched to the I.D. of the arms. Should be getting them back from the machine shop today. Last of the brake components arrived yesterday and I can't wait to get started on putting the whole assembly back together.
__________________
Tropical Buzz

Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the strength to change the things I can, and the wisdom to know the difference. -(wasn't me)

BEWARE OF THE DOGma!! Dogmatism bites...
Reply With Quote
  #20 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2018, 03:56 PM
Jim Coleman's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Waco, TX
Cobra Make, Engine: 1980 Arntz, 350 'Vette & Muncie, & Jag rear
Posts: 219
Not Ranked     
Default Can't Get Splined Shafts Out Of Housings

I removed the cotter pins, castle nuts and washers on both sides.

I can't get the splined shafts out of the housings.

Tried a hammer and pointed chisel, and then my 10 ton press.
Released the press as it wasn't moving and I didn't want to damage them.

Suggestions ?

Thanks,

Jim
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:32 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: CC Policy
Links monetized by VigLink