I Can Remove My Spinners With One Finger

[Morris]

Originally Posted by Cobra #3170

Porsche is 450 Ft/lb also, I bought a 4' torque wrench to install on my GT3 and it takes a 6' breaker bar to remove. I have given myself carpal tunnel in both hands banging on the knock offs so now I need to follow Morris lead and get SS nuts. I can no longer even swing my lead knock off hammer.

Bruce

Once you change.... you'll wish you had done it many years ago.....Plus it's easy and a 3/4"inch gun will take them off and put them on....many times we have just put them on until the gun slows down hammering and go to the track... no torque wrench and never had a failure.... that size gun when it is slowing down or stops usually is about 500#lbs of torque anyway...
Good luck and spin the nuts the right way....

[Morris]

Here’s a photo of the Stainless Steel knock-off nuts....because when you are changing tires & wheels at the track this is the only way to go.....plus you can turn the regulator up on the nitrogen to get more power if they get tight.




Here’s the tools.....one socket is for the race Center-locks & the other socket is for the tie down center-locks

[patrickt]

Nice stuff. Any educated guess on what it would take to twist that 1 1/2" hex bar of T6 aluminum?

[Morris]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Nice stuff. Any educated guess on what it would take to twist that 1 1/2" hex bar of T6 aluminum?

I have the same spinner removal tool you have ...and can tell you on my brothers Cobra.....we put a 1” x .125” wall thickness bar that was 7’ long and stood on it to break loose the spinner and the hole where the bar inserted into the tool was not elongated. I know the shock of the impact has an effect on the tool. But your impact did not sound like it was hammering like it could and that is because you are feeding it with a 3/8” air line.....therefore you are not hitting it with the power of a real 3/4” impact gun....probably like a 1/2” gun.....and short burst are better then long burst....

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Morris

But your impact did not sound like it was hammering like it could and that is because you are feeding it with a 3/8” air line.....

You are correct. But that's an easy fix, and one I will certainly make.

[Morris]

Originally Posted by patrickt

You are correct. But that's an easy fix, and one I will certainly make.

If it removes the spinner now.....I don’t think I would be in a hurry to change it....especially if the tool is in question.....

[Morris]

Here’s a photo of the SS center-locks with the tie-down locks and the race locks

[ACHiPo]

Originally Posted by Morris

Here’s a photo of the SS center-locks with the tie-down locks and the race locks

Morris,
What is the purpose of the center locks? How do they work?

[CSX 4133]

FYI... Vintage Wheel has two types of threaded hex nuts.

SPINNERS ,HEX NUTS ,LUG COVERS : Vintage Wheels, Mustang, Hot Rod and Muscle Car

[ScratchBuilder]

Thanks Morris for the info on the centerlocks. Also thanks Rodney and CSX4133 for additional info. I dont have the need for quick tire changes, but like that theres an impact friendly solution out there without ally tools or nuts.

SB

[Morris]

ACHiPo

The term Center-Lok is used because it's easier in a Race to remove only one Nut as apposed to removing like NASCAR 5 nuts....... In IMSA, Trans-Am and other type of Hi-performance vehicles the Center-Lok actually is the fastner of choice and easier.

On the back side of the Wheel are holes that match the hub studs, so all you do is put the wheel on the hub and rotate until the Studs line up with the holes in the back side of the wheel and the wheel slides right on the studs ... then one big Nut or Center-Lok tightens the wheel to the Hub.

The most important part of this is making sure the Nuts and the wheel have the same mating surface and that the angle is the same on the wheels and the nut.

Here's the Studs and the Center-Lok



Here's the nut with a pattern on the nut showing the patter of the wheel and nut mating surface.



Here's the wheel pattern and nut pattern



Thats why you need 450#lbs to prevent them from coming off.... and the Anti-Seize and a big bar or Impact Gun to get them off...

It is much easier using a 3/4"inch Impact gun to get them off.... and if you are using Nitrogen and a nut is overly tight ....we just turn the regulator on the tank up to 300# and the nut will come right off.... but normal 175#lbs a/c with knock any nut off...

Sorry for the long post.... just trying to explain.

[ACHiPo]

Originally Posted by Morris

ACHiPo

The term Center-Lok is used because it's easier in a Race to remove only one Nut as apposed to removing like NASCAR 5 nuts....... In IMSA, Trans-Am and other type of Hi-performance vehicles the Center-Lok actually is the fastner of choice and easier.

On the back side of the Wheel are holes that match the hub studs, so all you do is put the wheel on the hub and rotate until the Studs line up with the holes in the back side of the wheel and the wheel slides right on the studs ... then one big Nut or Center-Lok tightens the wheel to the Hub.

The most important part of this is making sure the Nuts and the wheel have the same mating surface and that the angle is the same on the wheels and the nut.

Here's the Studs and the Center-Lok



Here's the nut with a pattern on the nut showing the patter of the wheel and nut mating surface.



Here's the wheel pattern and nut pattern



Thats why you need 450#lbs to prevent them from coming off.... and the Anti-Seize and a big bar or Impact Gun to get them off...

It is much easier using a 3/4"inch Impact gun to get them off.... and if you are using Nitrogen and a nut is overly tight ....we just turn the regulator on the tank up to 300# and the nut will come right off.... but normal 175#lbs a/c with knock any nut off...

Sorry for the long post.... just trying to explain.

Morris,
Thank you very much. I was trying to understand the "hoop", thinking it wasn't attached to the nut. Now I see that it acts as a guide so the nut stays in the impact socket and is less likely to be cross-threaded. I've seen the nuts before on Indy cars, et al, but I haven't seen the center lock hoop.

Evan

[Morris]

Evan

There’s a misunderstanding here.......the Center-Lok is the Nut.........because it locks the wheel against the Hub......

The SS loop welded on to the Center-Lok Nut exactly in the same place on each nut is to tie the Cobra down in the trailer......we hook our straps to the loops on the Center-Lok Nuts and ratchet the car in position in the trailer......because the car is to low to strap anything underneath the bottom and because we have the Torsional plate and panels covering up all of the under side of KMP259.....

The reason you have to weld the loops on the Nuts in the same place on each nut is so you can buy a impact socket and machine out the slot for the loop and still slide the socket over the loop to engage the faces of the nut.....to install or remove the traveling nuts and install the racing nut that don’t have the loop mounted on them.....look at one of the first photo’s and you’ll see two different sockets to remove the nuts .....

[ACHiPo]

Originally Posted by Morris

Evan

There’s a misunderstanding here.......the Center-Lok is the Nut.........because it locks the wheel against the Hub......

The SS loop welded on to the Center-Lok Nut exactly in the same place on each nut is to tie the Cobra down in the trailer......we hook our straps to the loops on the Center-Lok Nuts and ratchet the car in position in the trailer......because the car is to low to strap anything underneath the bottom and because we have the Torsional plate and panels covering up all of the under side of KMP259.....

The reason you have to weld the loops on the Nuts in the same place on each nut is so you can buy a impact socket and machine out the slot for the loop and still slide the socket over the loop to engage the faces of the nut.....to install or remove the traveling nuts and install the racing nut that don’t have the loop mounted on them.....look at one of the first photo’s and you’ll see two different sockets to remove the nuts .....

Morris,
Got it. Thanks!
Evan

[Buzz]

Thanks for the explanation, Morris - I was wondering about the loops as well.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Buzz

Thanks for the explanation, Morris - I was wondering about the loops as well.

... and they make "finger tightening" the nut easier as well.

[Morris]

Originally Posted by patrickt

... and they make "finger tightening" the nut easier as well.

Yes ... and we run them on the street when ever we go out on the street....

We only have approximately 685 miles on KMP259....It's still Fresh.

[legenmetals]

What is the brown surface on the alloy wheel and steel nut?

[Mark IV]

Originally Posted by legenmetals

What is the brown surface on the alloy wheel and steel nut?

Anti-sieze

[Morris]

Originally Posted by legenmetals

What is the brown surface on the alloy wheel and steel nut?

Legen

It's Copper Anti-Seize..... used on the mating surfaces and the Threads of the hub.