351w crank trigger?

[tortuga]

So I’ve installed a Daytona sensors spark control box in place of the old msd 6al...the new box has the capability of programming the advance curve rather than relying on centrifugal weights and springs to determine advance vs rpm.

The distributor is now locked with an adjustable rotor to set phasing...done with a cap with a big hole net to #1 cap stud.

Kind of interesting, the timing is set at 34 on the crank above where total advance comes in, and then box actually retards max to 32, then more below 2800 to an initial of 18 at idle.

I’d like to take the next step and use a trigger wheel on the crank to provide the trigger signal. I’d like to do this in the interest of precision and actually reliability (seeing as the guts of the msd dizz are prone to issues). Once this is done, all the guts of the dizz can be removed, all it does now is route the coil pulses to the individual cap studs.

QUESTION: has anyone done this? How does the alternator mount along with the thrigger transducer bracket?

Thanks
Steve H
SPF 1764

[bobcowan]

If you're using stock components, you can find a stock balancer that has a built in trigger wheel. Swap to a front cover to match, and then just add the sensor of your choice. Makes it real easy.

If you're racing, though, you probably don't want to use a stock balancer.

I couldn't find exactly what I wanted in the aftermarket. I ended up making everything I needed. I connected it to a Megasquirt ECU and ran a coil pack, eliminating the distributer from the ignition system.







Very accurate, and dead nuts reliable. Raced/drove it for four years without a hitch.

[tortuga]

Did you run an alternator? Any photos of how that mounted? From what i can see the trigger brackets all seem to use the same holes as my low mount alternator?

Thanks!

[bobcowan]

The alternator was mounted low on passenger side, just like an old Mustang. I used this Summit Racing kit. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-420104

After installing the crank trigger, I re-installed the alternator brackets without any mods.

[tortuga]

I am thinking that i may actually fabricate a dual bracket, that is one that carries the transducer and is part of the alternator mount. I thought about mounting the alternator on drivers side but i've just got too much going on over there. I do like the idea of getting the damned alternator out from under all the water hoses on the passenger side though!

I do really appreciate the Help boB!

Steve H

[soroush]

Hi im new here, but I have recently purchased an early superformance and i have been working on it. one of the things I did was to install a crank trigger for the efi system. I used the innovators west balancer that has the pickups built right into the dampner and bought an alternator bracket from cvf.. you may have to make some custom spacers to move the alternator in or out depending on where your crank and waterpump pulleys end up linning up but its not difficult. certainly a lot easier than making your own bracket. hope this helps. also i dont know what kind of pulleys you are running but if you add any crank trigger to the front of the balancer that might cause the crank pulley to be pushed out a bit and not line up with the water pump pulley. just something else to keep track of... here is pic of my set up in progress,,,

[spdbrake]

Nice toybox Soroush!

[tortuga]

Originally Posted by tortuga

I am thinking that i may actually fabricate a dual bracket, that is one that carries the transducer and is part of the alternator mount. I thought about mounting the alternator on drivers side but i've just got too much going on over there. I do like the idea of getting the damned alternator out from under all the water hoses on the passenger side though!

I do really appreciate the Help boB!

Steve H

Thanks Man!

Im going with the FAST thin steel trigger, firing a Daytona CD-1 box with electronic advance curve. I've already locked out and phased the distributor. I have a new balancer coming too that has way better markings than the GD ford racing shiny reflective POS...

Running 18* initial 32* total with a 34* trigger.

Steve H
SPF 1764

[soroush]

Originally Posted by spdbrake

Nice toybox Soroush!

thanks, keeps me busy in the garage so I dont get into too much trouble

[soroush]

Originally Posted by tortuga

Thanks Man!

Im going with the FAST thin steel trigger, firing a Daytona CD-1 box with electronic advance curve. I've already locked out and phased the distributor. I have a new balancer coming too that has way better markings than the GD ford racing shiny reflective POS...

Running 18* initial 32* total with a 34* trigger.

Steve H
SPF 1764

did you get it running yet? I was going to say msd makes some cool balancer tapes in variety of sizes to match your balancer you just line up and stick the appropriate sized one on the balancer and the numbers are a lot easier to see. I have them on a few of my cars. works pretty well.

[ERA 626]

Originally Posted by bobcowan

If you're using stock components, you can find a stock balancer that has a built in trigger wheel. Swap to a front cover to match, and then just add the sensor of your choice. Makes it real easy.

If you're racing, though, you probably don't want to use a stock balancer.

I couldn't find exactly what I wanted in the aftermarket. I ended up making everything I needed. I connected it to a Megasquirt ECU and ran a coil pack, eliminating the distributer from the ignition system.







Very accurate, and dead nuts reliable. Raced/drove it for four years without a hitch.

I am using a megasquirt on a FE 482 build, I have not gotten to the point of programming yet as I am waiting on my manifold. I will be using a crank trigger very similar to yours, also not using a distributor. I am curious to how you will drive your oil pump and tell the ECU if you are on intake or exhaust stroke? I made a custom cam sync sensor by cutting up a brand new MSD pro billet dist and cutting the top from a F150 cam sync sensor and came up with this...

Cam position sensor

[ERA 626]

This is my crank trigger